Oud
Apicius
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Apicius
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8
The Gourmand
Indian oud oils are considered particularly strong and robust. In fact, Black Assam presents itself as a deep dark, thick distillate. It is said to have been distilled in India from a single agarwood tree using traditional, time-consuming methods.
Black Assam rivals the complexity of a Western perfume made from many individual fragrance components. It has a pronounced scent progression with great diversity. What all phases of this progression have in common is that they remind me of so-called gourmand notes.
The first impression is deep dark, bitter, and chocolaty. Here, the comparison to high-quality dark chocolate is truly compelling. Some dark chocolates, which are not overly softened by too much milk, possess a slight but noticeable acidity. This also soon appears in Black Assam, supporting the chocolate character. It quickly intensifies towards a vinegar-like quality. It becomes very sour on my skin. Eventually, the chocolate is gone. It transforms into something that distinctly reminds me of the aromas of hard cheese (Sbrinz? Parmesan?).
I find this unusual and extreme scent progression quite shocking. Only after hours does Black Assam calm down - it is only in its fading that it becomes beautiful. A certain light acidity remains - it now corresponds with a dark, somewhat reminiscent of rubber woodiness, which is very attractive.
I find it difficult to access Black Assam. It is demanding, too contradictory within itself - and for long stretches, it is too sour on my skin. Perhaps one must approach traditionally produced Indian ouds with caution.
Black Assam rivals the complexity of a Western perfume made from many individual fragrance components. It has a pronounced scent progression with great diversity. What all phases of this progression have in common is that they remind me of so-called gourmand notes.
The first impression is deep dark, bitter, and chocolaty. Here, the comparison to high-quality dark chocolate is truly compelling. Some dark chocolates, which are not overly softened by too much milk, possess a slight but noticeable acidity. This also soon appears in Black Assam, supporting the chocolate character. It quickly intensifies towards a vinegar-like quality. It becomes very sour on my skin. Eventually, the chocolate is gone. It transforms into something that distinctly reminds me of the aromas of hard cheese (Sbrinz? Parmesan?).
I find this unusual and extreme scent progression quite shocking. Only after hours does Black Assam calm down - it is only in its fading that it becomes beautiful. A certain light acidity remains - it now corresponds with a dark, somewhat reminiscent of rubber woodiness, which is very attractive.
I find it difficult to access Black Assam. It is demanding, too contradictory within itself - and for long stretches, it is too sour on my skin. Perhaps one must approach traditionally produced Indian ouds with caution.
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