HL.22 Parfum-Individual Harry Lehmann

So the miracle has happened: Lehmann'sche Parfüm-Manufaktur in Berlin's Kantstraße, a highly original Prussian contribution to the world's fragrance heritage, is back. Mr. Lehmann, the somewhat elderly but by no means seemingly obsolete last family heir to the business, passed away unexpectedly about a year ago, shortly before the company's 100th anniversary, and in any case before the question of succession was settled. The quirky, quirky store was closed and I don't know anyone who expected it to reopen.

Now, however, a motivated team of business people and fragrance specialists, who respect Lehmann's legacy and still operate somewhat mysteriously in the background, has apparently come together to continue the brand and its content. What can be seen so far gives rise to unreserved optimism: The name "Harry Lehmann" will be retained, the historically grown range of fragrances will be taken over, and the tradition of bottling in simple bottles of different sizes will be continued. Changes have been and will be made where I would have recommended them to the old Mr. Lehmann, who was obviously not a gifted businessman: termination of unfavourable licensing agreements, development of a fully-fledged Internet store, moderate price increase and careful decluttering of the store (with the abandonment of the iconic but ultimately unsuitable artificial flower department).

The range of fragrances offered by the "new Harry Lehmann" is therefore almost the same as that last offered when the old Mr. Lehmann died. However, there are two newcomers that also stand out in terms of their names: "HL 22" and "HL 33". In any case, "HL 22" is clearly a new creation and not a traditional Lehmann fragrance. Not only was there no fragrance of this name as of 2022/2023, but the new Lehmann website also advertises the fragrance as "born from the first perfumes created by Harry Lehmann". This probably means that this fragrance was somehow experimentally blended from the recipes of the earliest Lehmann originals (whether from still marketed or already discontinued ones, or even from which ones, is not said).

The number 22 seems to refer less to the year 1922 (although the company's advertising cautiously alludes to the Roaring Twenties), but rather to the ominous Lehmann numbering system (which was continued just as ominously by the new owners). The fragrance is listed as No. 22 - I suspect that the numbering sequence is essentially chronological, but that numbers that have become vacant due to the discontinuation of fragrances have been and are being reassigned - and I would guess that this was also the case here.

I find the fragrance itself difficult to capture and describe, especially as I can't link it to any previous reviews. After spraying it on, it initially impresses with a demanding and hard bordering on dissonance, it comes across as understated and enigmatic, its color for me is a deep purple. If I had to isolate individual notes, which is generally not my strong point, I would associate fruity sounds (dark fig) and sinister spices.

After half an hour at the latest, things calm down noticeably, the fragrance becomes rounder and more pleasing, but remains dense and full-bodied (without being overwhelming). I would tend to say no to floral and aldehydic notes (so much for the 20s); in terms of flowers, I would not completely rule out dark, heavy dabs of rose or hyacinth.

While the fragrance temperature oscillates around the zero line between cautious coolness and earthy, unobtrusive warmth and the fragrance remains consistently compact, almost opaque in texture, look and feel, earthy-brown notes push their way into the picture, which could plausibly be explained by the notes of angelica root and woods figuring here at Parfumo (by whomever), although I decidedly do not perceive HL 22 as a superficially woody fragrance.

Later on, a cheeky pepperminty note (with stevia sweetness) tickles my nose, which reminds me of another Lehmann number fragrance, Jubiläum 90, and a gourmand note oscillating between dark chocolate gingerbread and spiced speculoos is added.
All in all, an exciting experiment that has not failed at all and a beautiful fragrance that both Mrs. Spee and the reviewer agree is worth testing for both men and women, even if it doesn't have what it takes to become my favorite Lehmann right away.