Sartorial Penhaligon's 2010

...so the dry response of a charming employee at the security checkpoint in London Heathrow to my question: “How is your day?” I was instantly delighted. Even though, as a resident of the grumbling capital Munich, I can certainly appreciate the unconditional “fantastic!” of Americans when inquiring about one's well-being: British understatement is and remains something truly special.

This pleasant calm can also be found in Sartorial. Comfortingly spicy, the fragrance is characterized by an elegant, dry lightness that gently stamps its mark on the entire experience. Careful attention was paid during the conception to ensure that none of the ingredients disrupts the overall composition. The result is masterful, as the Who's Who of the fragrance pyramid reveals quite a bit of risk potential: cardamom, ginger, pepper, violet, patchouli, myrrh… it’s easy to go wrong here.

Not at all, I can only say. Sartorial impresses from the very beginning with a well-coordinated, albeit unusual concept. Lacking better terms, I would like to introduce the term “woodruff”: what causes startled recoiling among adults in the ice cream selection at the corner Italian is here processed as a fine, delicate note that wonderfully complements an earthy base tone.

In the further development of the fragrance, the violet then provides a subtle, minty sweetness. Skillfully, the pepper is also utilized, lifting the scent slightly in the middle phase and preventing it from sinking into overly dusty realms with invigorating accents. The play with the desired associations is expertly executed: fabric, paper, leather, wax, all of these flash before the mind's eye time and again, spaces where craftsmanship ensures the perfect fit on long cutting tables and behind cast-iron machines.

Sartorial is a mature fragrance that does not strike me as either old-fashioned or dull. A small masterpiece that brings a appreciative smile to my face, just as the security employee at Heathrow managed to do back then.