Eau Duc de Berry Rancé 1795 2009

A very difficult class are the "Eau" fragrances from Rancé. They are almost indescribable, simply because they are so subtle and restrained. There is hardly anything to grasp onto, hardly anything that stands out as a fragrance note.

I first encountered these perfumes years ago at the upscale Douglas in Munich on Theatinerstraße, and I didn't understand them at all. All of them. They are located right next to the Micallef range - a brand whose creations leave nothing to be desired in terms of opulence. Anyone who has already tested such things while perfume shopping cannot be reached by the subtle Eaux from Rancé anymore.

Everything about the Eaux from Rancé is understated, classic, conservative. Whether the attributes boring and old-fashioned also apply would need to be answered.

Eau Duc de Berry can be considered a men's fragrance. The ambitious perfume enthusiast knows Houbigant's straightforward, extremely spicy, and downright boisterous Duc de Vervin. But Eau Duc de Berry is the complete opposite: just a hint of everything - citrus, floral, spices, iris, amber, woods, and musk. This jumble results in something like perfume itself, which hardly exhibits any character. The few elements that make up this overly subtle fragrance are not even traceable in the fragrance pyramid. I particularly felt at the beginning of the development a similarity to chocolate notes, but then also a very subtly leathery character that extends into the base. I am aware that these impressions are likely illusions and that the fragrance materials typically responsible for them are not present. Eau Duc de Berry can best be described as a powdery musk scent, but certainly not as a pronounced iris perfume.

Eau Duc de Berry is light, transparent, and quite pleasant. It is nothing spectacular that really wants to attract anyone's attention. The wearer is merely surrounded by a delicate and fine aura, and the people around them may not even consciously perceive it. Even if one is probably never approached about a fragrance like Eau Duc de Berry - it could be that one unconsciously treats its wearer with more sympathy, politeness, and respect than others. For me, these values are somehow captured in this scent. Thus, the decision for this or another Eau from Rancé could almost be seen as a private statement.

Eau Duc de Berry, but also the other Eaux in this line, surely have a hard time making themselves noticeable to buyers in the hustle and bustle of pedestrian zones. They are not particularly widespread either. Perhaps this is one reason for the completely twisted pricing policy. For under €60 / 50 ml, it is at mass market level, yet the quality is to be rated much higher. In general, one does not do justice to this line and Eau Duc de Berry in particular with the distinction between mainstream vs. niche. Eau Duc de Berry lacks any effort for loudness, eccentric individuality, or even avant-garde-elitist attitude, which characterizes many niche perfumes. This is reflected, not least, in the fact that the perfumes in this line have been almost completely ignored on Parfumo so far.

Who buys this? I find Duc de Berry and the other Eaux from Rancé very appealing, as I am increasingly interested in subtle fragrances. Nevertheless, personally, I find there is too little statement here - a little more courage, a little more noticeable character would be welcome.

I would be very pleased if more Parfumo users would take a look at these underrated fragrances soon.