03/30/2025

DrB1414
243 Reviews

DrB1414
1
She is A Mystery
Ariel from Sammarco is dedicated to one of the perfumer's better inspirations, and she must remain a mystery. I can only imagine what an intricate and enigmatic personality she must have been, as the perfume itself.
Giovanni described Ariel as a green-floral-poudre, but I see it as a green-woody-poudre. As for the "poudre" part, it feels rather chalky, dry, and dusty. It doesn't smell like your typical/traditional powdery scent. The way the powderiness feels here brings to mind Iris Silver Mist with its chalky and dusty Iris. Ariel is also very woody, the sandalwood playing a major role in adding to the spicy and green (in an earthy and rooty way, not a fresh or crisp green) facets. I find it difficult to review Ariel, given its complexity and uniqueness. I also noticed through sampling over the years that more recent iterations feel more floral and fruity, even sweeter than the one I am reviewing.
When I first tried Ariel years ago, I was stunned by it. The opening of this perfume is spectacular, and that hasn't changed over the years. I attribute it to the heavy use of angelica, the third major player after the sandalwood and the orris. It opens up dry and musky, bitter-green, and earthy. Couple that with an equally dusty and chalky orris and rich sandalwood, and the result is something that I'd describe as the smell of "old book's pages." That is exactly how I perceive Ariel, especially during the opening stage and the heart. It is an unmistakable smell. Like opening the book and burying your nose in it. Dry, moldy, woody, dusty, and slightly sharp-acidic. I love that smell as it makes me think of the decades those written words on the paper had faced. Ariel is that smell. The heart reveals more of the orris and the sandalwood, with the latter dominating the dry-down. It renders a milky, spicy, and slightly sweet flavor to the perfume, somehow mellowing its aloofness. Yes, I find Ariel rather cold and stern. Besides the major players (angelica, orris, and sandalwood), other minor contributors play their part but never come center stage. The osmanthus adds some fruity facets, the davana with the tobacco some wet-green-leafy (musty) ones, and the violet and the rose a bit of vibrant floracy. Overall, to me, it smells like a bone-dry woody-earthy-spicy perfume.
If you'd tell me this is a deep vintage Guerlain, I would believe you. That is how rich and well-put-together Ariel smells. If you can picture a vintage Vol De Nuit meets L'Heure Bleu, add some Iris Silver mist to the mix, and top everything with loads of genuine sandalwood, you'll get a solid picture of Ariel. That, or you find an old book in your library or the closest Apothecary and bury your nose in it. It is a remarkable work of art. All offerings from the house are worthwhile, but Ariel is the most compelling. Vintage and modern, never quite the same, and a treat for lovers of orris, sandalwood, and that vintage "Guerlinade" minus the hefty vanilla.
IG:@memory.of.scents
Giovanni described Ariel as a green-floral-poudre, but I see it as a green-woody-poudre. As for the "poudre" part, it feels rather chalky, dry, and dusty. It doesn't smell like your typical/traditional powdery scent. The way the powderiness feels here brings to mind Iris Silver Mist with its chalky and dusty Iris. Ariel is also very woody, the sandalwood playing a major role in adding to the spicy and green (in an earthy and rooty way, not a fresh or crisp green) facets. I find it difficult to review Ariel, given its complexity and uniqueness. I also noticed through sampling over the years that more recent iterations feel more floral and fruity, even sweeter than the one I am reviewing.
When I first tried Ariel years ago, I was stunned by it. The opening of this perfume is spectacular, and that hasn't changed over the years. I attribute it to the heavy use of angelica, the third major player after the sandalwood and the orris. It opens up dry and musky, bitter-green, and earthy. Couple that with an equally dusty and chalky orris and rich sandalwood, and the result is something that I'd describe as the smell of "old book's pages." That is exactly how I perceive Ariel, especially during the opening stage and the heart. It is an unmistakable smell. Like opening the book and burying your nose in it. Dry, moldy, woody, dusty, and slightly sharp-acidic. I love that smell as it makes me think of the decades those written words on the paper had faced. Ariel is that smell. The heart reveals more of the orris and the sandalwood, with the latter dominating the dry-down. It renders a milky, spicy, and slightly sweet flavor to the perfume, somehow mellowing its aloofness. Yes, I find Ariel rather cold and stern. Besides the major players (angelica, orris, and sandalwood), other minor contributors play their part but never come center stage. The osmanthus adds some fruity facets, the davana with the tobacco some wet-green-leafy (musty) ones, and the violet and the rose a bit of vibrant floracy. Overall, to me, it smells like a bone-dry woody-earthy-spicy perfume.
If you'd tell me this is a deep vintage Guerlain, I would believe you. That is how rich and well-put-together Ariel smells. If you can picture a vintage Vol De Nuit meets L'Heure Bleu, add some Iris Silver mist to the mix, and top everything with loads of genuine sandalwood, you'll get a solid picture of Ariel. That, or you find an old book in your library or the closest Apothecary and bury your nose in it. It is a remarkable work of art. All offerings from the house are worthwhile, but Ariel is the most compelling. Vintage and modern, never quite the same, and a treat for lovers of orris, sandalwood, and that vintage "Guerlinade" minus the hefty vanilla.
IG:@memory.of.scents