Louis

StellaDiverF
18.08.2019 - 11:55 AM
2
5
Bottle
4
Sillage
7
Longevity
5.5
Scent

Sports Cologne with a Gentle Cumin Touch

The opening of Louis on me, is quite reminiscent of a lot of commercial men's sports cologne, the kind of assertively fresh aquatic and vaguely metallic citrus-y note not unlike that of dihydromyrcenol. I'm not much of a fan of this type of opening, but fortunately, Louis has a few engaging elements up its sleeve.

Underneath the sporty mist, there's a subtle oily green and chocolate-y nuance from galbanum, a discreet melon-like suave fruitiness, and most prominently a spicy cumin note. I personally find the cumin note here rather woody, and not particularly evocative of body odour. Therefore, it adds an unexpected and interesting twist to the otherwise routine fresh fougere, without appearing overly dissonant.

With time, the fresh aquatic opening note completely wears off, while the delicate sweet spicy coolness of clove becomes more noticeable, as well as an almost waxy, lipstick-like texture of orris provides a bit more heft to the overall fresh scent. The combination of cumin and orris here, reminds of that in Francesca Bianchi Under My Skin and Jean-Michel Duriez Seine Amoureuse, but much less complex and more lean and airy. It's as if diluting the cumin + orris core of those two perfumes, then mixing it with the herbal, transparent clove and orris of Slumberhouse Grev.

Louis mostly maintains this softly cumin-y and herbal orris skin scent and turns more and more amorphous with time, but there's an unexpected surge of beet-like earthiness towards the dry down after about 5-6 hours, and occasionally an almost cotton candy-like sweetness which might stem from orange blossom. The sillage is moderate to soft, and it lasts around 8 hours on my skin.

Based on my personal preferences, Louis is not really my cup of tea. Besides the "sport cologne" opening that bothers me, I also prefer the richer, more layered treatment of cumin and orris in Under My Skin and Seine Amoureuse, as well as the more ethereal Grev. But as a commercial sports cologne with a gentle cumin touch as a twist, Louis is quite adequate.
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