No Perfume The Zoo 2018

The Zoo has released exactly that with No Perfume: a scent, not a perfume. When you look at the other creations from the house, it becomes clear that we are dealing with special, partly avant-garde, and above all eccentric fragrances. A glance at the perfumer on his website hardly shakes this thought. I was particularly intrigued by No Perfume from his line, as birch tar can be a fine thing when well staged.

To start with: the scent develops, but it begins with dry, dust-dry asphalt. It is hot, you are thirsty, and around you is only heated asphalt. Strong, black, viscous. A conceptual scent. I quickly think of On the Road by Timothy Han, which is brilliant, and this goes in the same direction, just more enduring.
Black Tar is often mentioned when it comes to tar. For me, the work of the French is a nice idea, as floral notes break up the tar. That is not the case here. The woody notes, indicated in the pyramid, must mean burnt and/or charred wood. Perhaps grill charcoal. After use.

Nevertheless, it remains intense within certain limits, maintaining a certain framework. But it does not become spicy; this is not a mixture where spice takes the edge off the tar and allows it to glide from pitch-black scenarios into dark green tones. I like that because birch tar sometimes becomes a bit weak and unremarkable when the intensity is dialed back and attempts are made to optimize it with green notes.

Of course, No Perfume shows a being that is not poor in facets. From black, we move into brownish, dark resinous flecks. This gives the tar more variations without changing it at its core. Thus, the scent lingers. Naturally, it becomes tamer after three or four hours, but only relatively.

How many lines can be written about this scent. For me, this is a conceptual fragrance, a very successful and enduring one. I would buy this one due to its longevity even before On The Road, were it not too dry for me. It feels like you always need a water bottle while wearing it. Hats off, I will remember Laudamiel.
By the way: The Zoo places value on ethical practices, which is why various notes are artificially created. Paradoxically, some fragrances are banned in certain countries due to animal-friendly substitutes, while the animal originals are not.