No Perfume by The Zoo

No Perfume 2018

Chizza
01/04/2021 - 01:46 PM
24
Top Review
8Scent 8Longevity 8Sillage 8Bottle

Dusty asphalt

With No Perfume, The Zoo have released just that: a scent, not a perfume. If you look at the other creations of the house, it is clear that we are dealing with special, partly avant-garde and above all eccentric fragrances. A look at the perfumer on his website hardly shakes this idea. From his series had appealed to me especially the No Perfume, because birch tar can be well staged a fine thing.

Preliminary: the fragrance develops but it begins with dry, dust-dry asphalt. It's hot, you're thirsty and around you only heated asphalt. Strong, black, tough. A concept scent. I quickly think of On the Road by Timothy Han, it's brilliant and here it goes in the same direction, only more persistent.
Black Tar is often mentioned when it comes to tar. For me, the work of the French is a nice idea, but floral notes break up the tar. That's not the case here. The woody notes, indicated in the pyramid, must mean burnt and/or charred wood. Barbecue charcoal, perhaps. After use.

Still, it stays intense within certain limits, you keep a certain frame. But it doesn't get spicy, this isn't a blend where spice takes the edge off the tar and lets it slide from pitch black scenarios towards dark green tones. I like that because birch tar sometimes gets a little weak and featureless when you pull back the intensity and try to tweak it with green notes.

Clearly, No Perfume shows a being not poor in facets. From black we pass into brownish, dark resinous sprinkles. This provides the tar more variances without changing it in the core. This is how the scent lingers then. Of course, he becomes tamer after three or four hours, but that only relatively.

How many lines can be written about this smell. For me, this is a concept fragrance, a very successful and persistent. This one I would buy before On The Road because of the durability, it would not be too dry for me. Feels like you always need a water bottle when wearing it. All respect, Laudamiel I remember.
On a side note, The Zoo values ethical practices, which is why they artificially create various notes. Paradoxically, some fragrances are banned because of the animal-friendly substitutes disagree countries while the animal originals are not.
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16 Comments
ExUserExUser 4 years ago
1
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Oh dear, I think I need this one now after reviewing it. Top written!
MonsieurTestMonsieurTest 5 years ago
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Chizza is serving us 49 Shades of Tar again.
Welcome breakdown of the concept fragrance -
and thanks for being our ethical guinea pig! ;-)
SeejungfrauSeejungfrau 5 years ago
1
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Finally a ray of hope on the skin. Testing it right now :-)
VrabecVrabec 5 years ago
4
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Sounds like an interesting scent. Especially if you like that note, sometimes you don't need all the extras. Especially when individual notes are complex enough.
FvSpeeFvSpee 5 years ago
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Chizza on an exploration tour in the remote borderlands of the continent Parfumika. I read the research reports with a certain cozy shiver, but I'm glad I can relax at home with a bottle of Cologne (or right now: Habit Rouge).
NuiWhakakoreNuiWhakakore 5 years ago
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Well described and definitely interesting, but not for me!
Can777Can777 5 years ago
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It's definitely exciting, but I think it would be too much for me to wear!
PonticusPonticus 5 years ago
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I would never dispute your opinion on this perfume (can we even call it that?). Tar belongs on the road, and it smells just as wonderfully there as you described in your post!
Medianus76Medianus76 5 years ago
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This all sounds pretty intense again and would probably overwhelm my olfactory understanding. Nevertheless, it's wonderfully written as always, and I especially find the last sentence striking... No matter how you do it, it's wrong!!
GandixGandix 5 years ago
1
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Hardcore too..........
GschpusiGschpusi 5 years ago
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Sounds just like me....
PinkdawnPinkdawn 5 years ago
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I've always liked the smell of tar since I was a kid. I really appreciate that The Zoo doesn't use animal products for ethical reasons. They can also stop tapping the poor birches if they want. I'm sure birch tar can be made synthetically as well.
PollitaPollita 5 years ago
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Some of the scents that are wearable for you are just too specific for me. So I'm probably out here, even though it must be exciting to smell.
Melisse2Melisse2 5 years ago
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I think I’d prefer asphalt to be dry rather than oily or resinous. But Naomi Godsir is already eccentric enough for me.
SalvaSalva 5 years ago
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Very interesting and informative write-up. I'm not sure if I would like it, though. It sounds a bit too dark and gloomy.
FloydFloyd 5 years ago
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Someone carved Floyd into the asphalt ;-)