Bruma Trudon 2017

On my skin, Bruma is a flowing harmony of iris, violet and suede. It opens with mildly carrot-like and starchy, but mostly waxy iris, and slightly tart fruity ionone reminiscent of violet. If I sniff closely, there is also a discreet green pepperiness mixed within. Occasionally, I also get brief impressions of waxy lipsticks, but nothing overtly powdery.

The fragrance doesn't have any dramatic change, but moves from one phase to another in incremental steps. The waxy texture of iris is gradually replaced by a abstract, supple suede. There's just a tiny trace of hay to enhance the animalic tenderness of suede. I suspect that there might be something similar to heliotropine as well, because the whole effect of musky violet-suede is reminiscent of a heftier dry down of Hermès Cuir d'Ange to my nose.

Just as I thought Bruma would remain this plush violet-suede, the nutty aspect of vetiver makes an unexpected appearance and adds a bit of grit in this otherwise elegant suede, which is a welcoming twist to Bruma.

Bruma has a soft sillage and lasts about 8 hours on my skin.

Although Bruma is hardly innovative as a polished floral suede, it's solidly made with its little twist of nutty vetiver, and far from being banal. Its lack of dramatic change might fail to leave a strong initial impression, but its smoothness and fluidity would make it a refined yet versatile fragrance in various settings. I'd definitely recommend it to fans of elegant iris-violet-suede fragrances, especially if you favour a more abstract, effortless style.

Bruma is a very pretty violet and iris cosmetic powder scent layered over a fruity apple suede base, not a million miles removed from what you’d get if you were to spray Chanel’s Misia on top of I Miss Violet by The Different Company or even Traversee du Bosphore by L’Artisan Parfumeur. They all share a delicious “I could drink this as liqueur” quality.

There is, however, an oddly ashy, peppery core to Bruma that does not appear in the other fragrances I mentioned, and for a time, I was close to defining this as Tuscan Leather-lite (there is a similarly sawdusty texture that links the two). But this ashen portion of the scent melts away quite quickly, leaving the deliciously fruity violet suede in its place. The drydown has a nutty, chewy lokhoum flavor to it that I truly enjoy: picture a violet lozenge of Turkish delight dusted in powdered sugar.

It’s a good fragrance, but I feel like I am missing a trick when I compare my experience with the brand copy. I felt the same way about Times Square by Masque Fragranze, which I enjoy as a syrupy apricot and lipstick scent, but completely fail to grasp the more exciting garbagey or sinful hooker stuff referenced in the descriptions. Both are kind of less than advertized, like when you see a trailer for a movie that looks great, and then you go and see the movies and realize that the trailer had all the exciting bits.

Opens with sweet lavender, waxy green wood, and what I swear is a hint of apple. Not fresh, crisp apple, but one that’s ripened to the point of falling off the tree.

It's a lovely and unusual blend of notes, which makes the eventual fade to a traditional powdery iris mixed with some very mild leather and vanillic labdanum all the more disappointing.

It's not that it's a bad powdery iris (in fact it's rather nice), but the transition takes the scent from a striking open into an "oh I've been here before" heart.

Overall, it's soft and sophisticated and just a little uptight, a fragrance to fill the pastel-toned drawing room of a slightly bored and repressed Regency heiress.

Projection is somewhat soft, and longevity is moderate. Gender is well-bred ward under genteel confinement.

Every niche perfume brand needs its iris scent in the repertoire - "Bruma" is this powdery dream from Trudon, which is now applying for further exploration with me. Because this thing is ruthlessly high-quality, coming close in its coolness and weightlessness to "Silver Iris Mist" by Uncle Serge. And that says something!

When it comes to the theme of soft, delicate, smooth iris, "Bruma" gets almost everything right. This is Champions League in this niche. However, a truly great perfume naturally requires more than just excelling in one discipline. Those who want to explore the note "iris" and/or are into floral powdery scents with a slightly soapy-green twist must/should test this. And I still love iris (and probably will forever), so I simply have to give it a (fairly) high rating. However, it lacks the wink, curves, thorns, and breaks of the theme for that final kick and wow effect, in my opinion. Besides, I have of course already encountered quite a few of these iris flatterers, and hardly any of them do it really poorly. But this anti-bummer can't be blamed for that...

Bottle: almost as simple and straightforward (and beautiful) as the scent
Sillage: dense and subtle
Longevity: high-quality and lasting - 7 hours just passing by. Quite positively surprising for such a delicate, powdery little plant.

Conclusion: it has almost everything a reference iris would need - just lacking in edges and creativity for my taste. Nevertheless: those who like iris will float pleasantly and weightlessly in this buttery-rosy cloud. Casual, light, loving.

The first perfume collection from the house of Trudon was released in 2017. Until then, the house was primarily known for its high-quality and luxurious scented candles. The perfume collection now includes 12 fragrances, each containing olfactory complexity and aiming to create its own character images.

The story behind the scent: At night, a female rider draws inner strength from the elements surrounding her: Her horse and the depth of the forest at night seem to bestow upon her a magnetic and fleshy aura.

The opening is spicy with a pleasant pepper note combined with lavender. The floral orientation at the heart of the fragrance is represented by jasmine and other floral components, giving it a slightly powdery twist. Vetiver, leather, and the sweetness of tonka bean ground the fragrance in the base.

For me, the scent progression usually takes on a very pleasant green-spicy direction. The floral nuances remain subtle in the background. The slightly powdery touch also harmonizes well. An incredibly successful fragrance that I can recommend as a unisex all-rounder.