Emerald Star Xerjoff 2014

Uncommented Fragrances No. 82

Actually, I didn't want to write any comments on brands like Xerjoff anymore. One or two really good fragrances do not justify a concept that seems to launch scents on the market weekly, which sell mainly because image and presentation cater to certain longings. Of course, every fragrance ultimately does that. When I quickly grab Old Spice or the latest Beckham scent at my favorite drugstore, where I buy shower gel and shampoo, those longings are also being satisfied. I know that too. But it doesn't hurt financially as much. And that's exactly where the problem lies. This is not a general criticism of expensive brands. Some of them have given us many of the most beautiful fragrances that I have had the pleasure to test. For example, when I think of Clive Christian's L for men, I could almost forgive the man behind it for the crime of buying out the Crown brand, burying it, and only keeping the shape of the bottles. Almost!

With Emerald Star, I also had lower motives for wanting to test the fragrance. The bottle is green, and I like green. The shape is silly, but you get used to that after the 75th (!) fragrance from Xerjoff. This medium green and the name Emerald Star (if I like gemstones, then emeralds) made me weak.

Then Verbena came along and asked me if I wanted to test it (Yes, yes, yes: THANK YOU!). And now I am struggling with my aversion to a certain type of fragrance and my fascination that says: Don't think, just spray it on!

After a first test, I was left with a distinct musk note and a sweet-soft tone in my memory, which probably comes from the fruits (see below) and/or dates. Everything is embedded in a buttery creaminess that almost gives the fragrance an animalistic aura. I also smell flowers that are not listed here (Osmanthus?).

Since I spare no expense or effort, I got an oil roller with pure Davana oil before the test to better assess how and where this note is embedded in the fragrance, as many testers seem to have perceived this scent quite distinctly. Davana oils are quite rare even among manufacturers of essential oils and have even been removed from the program by some suppliers. I only found one with a small manufacturer.
Davana is said to smell warm, sweet, and mango-like, and allegedly has a relaxing effect that can relieve stress and tension. I will keep the roller at my office. It can't hurt. In fact, this fragrance description fits very well with the fruity note that I perceive from the very first moment in Emerald Star and that lingers for a long time, even not completely disappearing in the drydown. On the other hand, I cannot recognize this description in my oil roller with Davana oil. It smells much more strongly woody (this accent is also attributed to Davana). The fruity accents in my oil are limited to a fresh-bright, somewhat pale fruitiness that I do not associate with tropical fruits at all.
So be it. I just wasted 6.95 euros on this roller. Still less than the price I would have paid at Harrods (only there is Emerald Star exclusively) for the whole pot.

Can one now recommend a trip to London with a detour to Harrods? I am pleased with the sample, advise keeping an eye out for a possible sharing, as the fragrance is definitely worth testing, but I see no need to invest in a whole bottle, even though I can understand why one might want to.

And the moral of the story: Don't buy Davana rollers.

Addendum: for those interested - 370.00 British pounds for 100 ml

Addendum 2: The second Davana oil roller also developed only woody accents, hardly any fruit, mango notes only with a lot of imagination. In my view, Davana does not stand out as much as some might assume.