Esquel Xerjoff 2007

This is the first fragrance from XerJoff that I really like. "Esquel" was also the last fragrance I tested three days ago and wanted to comment on the next day with a re-test, and then it happened: My sense of smell was completely gone due to an infection, something I had never experienced in my life. Since this morning, I can smell everything again. Of course, I first tested two fragrances that I know well to determine if I could actually smell properly again.
Now "Esquel" is the first fragrance I am commenting on afterward. Of course, I could have done that based on my notes. But I didn't want to. I've never done that. There was always at least a faint trace on my skin.
Now I smell exactly the same again as I did three days ago.
"Esquel" starts immediately woody with a hint of citrus. Along with that, I smell a strangely foreign, unfamiliar scent, herbal, spicy, and slightly peppery. But I can also smell a mild lavender.
Since I couldn't test or do anything meaningful, I at least researched what myrtle and spikenard are meant to be and how they are supposed to smell.
The myrtles I have in summer do not have a scent. But real myrtle is supposed to smell spicy, sweet, and herbal, fresh with a hint of eucalyptus.
I have smelled something of that kind each time, but I wouldn't have been able to name it; it doesn't smell exactly like that. It also reminded me a bit of the scent of blueberries and their leaves, like you find them wild in the forest. And I recalled that blueberries are called "myrtille" in French.
This unique and unusual scent blend lasts about 2 hours on me with a subtle sillage.
Then "Esquel" changes as the sillage becomes significantly stronger. Furthermore, "Esquel" now becomes beautifully aromatic, resinous, woody, bitter, and sweet. This sweetness is probably caused by the flowers, which I can't smell separately due to the strong other scents.
With the aromatic warm resin note, spikenard may be meant. But even here, it has a delicate scent of light patchouli.
In this phase of the fragrance, I am reminded of "Epic Woman" by Amouage. However, it is more floral and spicy and woody in a different way.
However, the progression of "Esquel" allows all the ingredients that have already come together to persist. However, they take a back seat, and now it becomes almond-scented for me; I smell woody cinnamon bark and tonka as well as vanilla.
I can't distinguish the two in a duo and possibly with heliotrope. Now "Esquel" has indeed reached a distinct gourmand stage. Nevertheless, the artwork is successful in that the previous composition is not devoured by it. So to speak, the base has not become a scentless gourmand.
A beautiful strong fragrance just the way I like it. And a true XerJoff, because the longevity is not only excessively good, the intensity that begins with the onset of the heart note remains until almost the end. Although the sillage is not particularly expansive.
On one hand, especially at the beginning, it is a unique fragrance. On the other hand, when it transitions from the heart note to the base, there are not only allusions to Epic Woman but also to "Mon Amour" by Haldimann or fragrances from Marly, Eau Extreme No. 1 ALzD. I don't want to talk about twin fragrances. At most, "Mon Amour" by Haldimann is very similar, but it doesn't have the intensity and longevity.
I would classify "Esquel" as unisex. And importantly: No cumin.
Oh yes, Angua is right, "Esquel" is indeed a little scent 'oh là là'. If it weren't for the price.