04/28/2024
JonasP1
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The Sultan's legacy...
In the breath of the roaring sea
Gliding on smoking waves
Past dark-crusted oud coasts
Amber dust blown away
Lays down like gauze
Around glowing resinous amber
Wrapped in spice
Thumps your Sultan Gris heart
Sheltered by sandalwood tonality...
Ahom World is a brand from the United Arab Emirates, co-founded by Zakir Laskar. Zakir Laskar, Zak for short, is also the co-founder of the perfume brand Dixit & Zak. Originally, Zak wanted to use the rare materials from Ahom World in modern perfumery, i.e. in Dixit & Zak. However, after discussions with Dixit & Zak's financial advisors and auditors, this was advised against, as the expensive investment could have a negative impact on return on investment and profitability and also make it difficult for Nitish Dixit and Zakir Laskar to work together. He therefore refocused on Ahom World, where he continues to create fragrances with rare raw materials, including Sultan Gris.
Sultan Gris is a tribute to the late Sultan Quaboos. Sometimes matured ambergris dust was used here, which wraps itself around the many umber-colored spices (over 30 different ones were used) like a gentle spiral of smoke.
The first thing I notice - apart from ambergris and a musky note - is a hint of cardamom, which lingers in a bowl of fine vintage Mysore sandalwood. The ouds come into play quite quickly, blending in perfectly with the rest. The Burmese vintage oud and the Indian oud are not overly animalic here; rather, they bring a dark woody-spicy, slightly leathery overall impression, so that the fragrance is not immediately overwhelming or even unpleasantly stale despite its complexity.
Onycha slightly softens the woody, smoky timbre and creates a resinous, secure atmosphere of warm, roasted mussel shells with a balsamic finish. The gently sweet saffron also blends very well into the composition here, even opening up an airy, fresh facet.
The seaweed, which would of course fit in well with the slightly maritime scent, is only to be understood as an ephemeral phenomenon here; it only brings a slightly salty note, which could also have its origins in the ambergris.
What remains: Glowing amber resins in the echo of spicy oud spheres, salty-smoky air floating above a sea of archaic ambergris dust... Escape: No use!
In summary, Sultan Gris is an incredibly beautiful and special phenomenon, whose quality, depth and grandeur immediately cast a spell over you. The dark, spicy brew impresses me above all with its beautiful, complex interplay of the many, well-dosed spices, the two ouds and, of course, the uncompromising use of vintage materials.
For those who are interested, here is a video of Zak mixing Sultan Gris: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vhQ6suQxLuA
Thanks for reading!
Gliding on smoking waves
Past dark-crusted oud coasts
Amber dust blown away
Lays down like gauze
Around glowing resinous amber
Wrapped in spice
Thumps your Sultan Gris heart
Sheltered by sandalwood tonality...
Ahom World is a brand from the United Arab Emirates, co-founded by Zakir Laskar. Zakir Laskar, Zak for short, is also the co-founder of the perfume brand Dixit & Zak. Originally, Zak wanted to use the rare materials from Ahom World in modern perfumery, i.e. in Dixit & Zak. However, after discussions with Dixit & Zak's financial advisors and auditors, this was advised against, as the expensive investment could have a negative impact on return on investment and profitability and also make it difficult for Nitish Dixit and Zakir Laskar to work together. He therefore refocused on Ahom World, where he continues to create fragrances with rare raw materials, including Sultan Gris.
Sultan Gris is a tribute to the late Sultan Quaboos. Sometimes matured ambergris dust was used here, which wraps itself around the many umber-colored spices (over 30 different ones were used) like a gentle spiral of smoke.
The first thing I notice - apart from ambergris and a musky note - is a hint of cardamom, which lingers in a bowl of fine vintage Mysore sandalwood. The ouds come into play quite quickly, blending in perfectly with the rest. The Burmese vintage oud and the Indian oud are not overly animalic here; rather, they bring a dark woody-spicy, slightly leathery overall impression, so that the fragrance is not immediately overwhelming or even unpleasantly stale despite its complexity.
Onycha slightly softens the woody, smoky timbre and creates a resinous, secure atmosphere of warm, roasted mussel shells with a balsamic finish. The gently sweet saffron also blends very well into the composition here, even opening up an airy, fresh facet.
The seaweed, which would of course fit in well with the slightly maritime scent, is only to be understood as an ephemeral phenomenon here; it only brings a slightly salty note, which could also have its origins in the ambergris.
What remains: Glowing amber resins in the echo of spicy oud spheres, salty-smoky air floating above a sea of archaic ambergris dust... Escape: No use!
In summary, Sultan Gris is an incredibly beautiful and special phenomenon, whose quality, depth and grandeur immediately cast a spell over you. The dark, spicy brew impresses me above all with its beautiful, complex interplay of the many, well-dosed spices, the two ouds and, of course, the uncompromising use of vintage materials.
For those who are interested, here is a video of Zak mixing Sultan Gris: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vhQ6suQxLuA
Thanks for reading!
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