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Top Review
Not Yuzu, Rice Powder, etc. - Daffodil and Hazelnut!
The scents of the 'Trilogy of Humors' were available once before, six years ago. At that time, they were offered in a particularly limited edition, with only 100 bottles per fragrance. Small painted porcelain amphorae, reminiscent of old apothecary containers, held 40ml of the extraits each. A pipette for dripping was included, as the scents were not meant to be sprayed, nor dabbed, but rather dripped like medicine.
Speaking of medicine: based on the theory of the four humors (fr: 'Théorie des Humeurs') by Hippocrates, it was said that the fragrance trio would help to balance these humors. 'Lacrima' (water of the eyes) was said to be effective against heartache and sadness, 'Melancolia' (water of the mind) fought melancholy and bad moods, and 'Phantasma' (water of the lips) inspired secret fantasies and erotic spirits.
So much for the theory, or rather the marketing bling-bling; whether it helps in practice is something everyone must find out for themselves. It's the usual blabla that is supposed to make fragrances more interesting, but in this case, it’s actually quite original, even if probably quite silly.
Regardless, the scents didn’t need such nonsense; they are really good!
The oh-so-limited edition is thankfully a thing of the past, and the scents are now available in some places, though not everywhere. However, they are no longer in the pretty little amphorae that looked like small apple wine jugs (only the handle was missing...), but in plain blue glass bottles. I find blue as a bottle color rather difficult, as these bottles usually contain aquatic-ozonic fougères - scents that I really do not like. But in the case of the 'Humeurs', this concern is completely unfounded.
I do not regret that the 40ml extraits have been diluted to 100ml Eau de Parfum, as I find it a bit difficult with extraits: I prefer to spray rather than dab - let alone drip...
When I first tested 'Phantasma', I was somewhat irritated. 'Lacrima' and 'Melancolia' correspond roughly to the information about the respective ingredients used, but 'Phantasma' smells completely different - at least to my perception. No trace of yuzu, rice powder, and ginger. Tea, juniper, and woods, perhaps, but above all, a strong floral accord rose to my nose, with a slight indolic note typical of white flowers. Additionally, there was a distinctly green-spicy aroma, which reminded me less of juniper. The saleswoman confirmed my question about whether she could also smell flowers, but bravely stuck to yuzu, rice powder, and co., saying they were indeed also present.
Once home, I researched again and discovered a review of 'Phantasma' in the fragrance diary of ALZD. Here too, there is talk of ginger sharpness, citrus freshness, Asian hesperidines, powdery rice notes, even a milk rice character - but nothing of the sort on my arm, nada!
On a French site called 'Osmoz', I finally found 6-year-old information about the scent that came much closer to my impressions. The scent is described as 'Floral-Green' and the following notes are mentioned:
Top Notes: Green Notes
Heart Notes: Narcissus, Clary Sage
Base Notes: Woody Notes, Hazelnut
Et voilà, I knew it: the floral accord is indeed very pronounced!
I found sage equally understandable, especially when I sprayed the scent again: there it was again, the typically urinous moment for this herb. Yes, it suddenly smelled quite pissy, and quite at the beginning of the scent's development, but fortunately, it dissipates rather quickly. Together with the daffodil's indole, this urine penetrance creates a rather repulsive effect, which - as mentioned - quickly passes. However, the indole remains, albeit subtly.
Later, a woody aroma unfolds more and more, interspersed with a slight gourmand touch, which is apparently due to the hazelnut. The more the daffodil fades, the more the nut comes to the forefront. But please do not imagine a nougat-sweet hazelnut. No, this nut is absolutely unsweetened, framed by the scent of the woody shells.
All in all, the scent shifts from green-aromatic to floral-indolic to nutty-woody, thus presenting an interesting progression, which I cannot quite follow in a relaxed manner. My relationship with floral indole, especially as a man, is still not conclusively resolved (and perhaps never will be), and when other uncertainties like the aforementioned urinous facet and a not entirely easy gourmand aspect come into play, I am more inclined to leave the scent to those who have no issues with it - which ultimately brings me to 'Lacrima' and 'Melancolia', as I can enjoy these two quite relaxed. But more on that elsewhere.
Whether 'Phantasma' now inspires erotic spirits or secret fantasies is another question. Not for me, at least.
It is a beautiful and above all interesting scent, with great but not excessive longevity and rather moderate projection - just the way I like it.
I also find the manageable number of notes in all the 'Humeurs' refreshing, as they provide a clear contrast to the overload of some Liquides scents. However, with fewer notes, the perfumer must work more precisely, blend more accurately, and calibrate.
It is exactly this care that distinguishes the three 'Humeurs'.
Addendum, 23.03.20: Although I have worn 'Phantasma' frequently now, I have not encountered the urinous undertone of the sage again. Whether it is due to a sensory adaptation or not, I do not know. It is gone, in any case.
With each wear, the scent got better and better!
Speaking of medicine: based on the theory of the four humors (fr: 'Théorie des Humeurs') by Hippocrates, it was said that the fragrance trio would help to balance these humors. 'Lacrima' (water of the eyes) was said to be effective against heartache and sadness, 'Melancolia' (water of the mind) fought melancholy and bad moods, and 'Phantasma' (water of the lips) inspired secret fantasies and erotic spirits.
So much for the theory, or rather the marketing bling-bling; whether it helps in practice is something everyone must find out for themselves. It's the usual blabla that is supposed to make fragrances more interesting, but in this case, it’s actually quite original, even if probably quite silly.
Regardless, the scents didn’t need such nonsense; they are really good!
The oh-so-limited edition is thankfully a thing of the past, and the scents are now available in some places, though not everywhere. However, they are no longer in the pretty little amphorae that looked like small apple wine jugs (only the handle was missing...), but in plain blue glass bottles. I find blue as a bottle color rather difficult, as these bottles usually contain aquatic-ozonic fougères - scents that I really do not like. But in the case of the 'Humeurs', this concern is completely unfounded.
I do not regret that the 40ml extraits have been diluted to 100ml Eau de Parfum, as I find it a bit difficult with extraits: I prefer to spray rather than dab - let alone drip...
When I first tested 'Phantasma', I was somewhat irritated. 'Lacrima' and 'Melancolia' correspond roughly to the information about the respective ingredients used, but 'Phantasma' smells completely different - at least to my perception. No trace of yuzu, rice powder, and ginger. Tea, juniper, and woods, perhaps, but above all, a strong floral accord rose to my nose, with a slight indolic note typical of white flowers. Additionally, there was a distinctly green-spicy aroma, which reminded me less of juniper. The saleswoman confirmed my question about whether she could also smell flowers, but bravely stuck to yuzu, rice powder, and co., saying they were indeed also present.
Once home, I researched again and discovered a review of 'Phantasma' in the fragrance diary of ALZD. Here too, there is talk of ginger sharpness, citrus freshness, Asian hesperidines, powdery rice notes, even a milk rice character - but nothing of the sort on my arm, nada!
On a French site called 'Osmoz', I finally found 6-year-old information about the scent that came much closer to my impressions. The scent is described as 'Floral-Green' and the following notes are mentioned:
Top Notes: Green Notes
Heart Notes: Narcissus, Clary Sage
Base Notes: Woody Notes, Hazelnut
Et voilà, I knew it: the floral accord is indeed very pronounced!
I found sage equally understandable, especially when I sprayed the scent again: there it was again, the typically urinous moment for this herb. Yes, it suddenly smelled quite pissy, and quite at the beginning of the scent's development, but fortunately, it dissipates rather quickly. Together with the daffodil's indole, this urine penetrance creates a rather repulsive effect, which - as mentioned - quickly passes. However, the indole remains, albeit subtly.
Later, a woody aroma unfolds more and more, interspersed with a slight gourmand touch, which is apparently due to the hazelnut. The more the daffodil fades, the more the nut comes to the forefront. But please do not imagine a nougat-sweet hazelnut. No, this nut is absolutely unsweetened, framed by the scent of the woody shells.
All in all, the scent shifts from green-aromatic to floral-indolic to nutty-woody, thus presenting an interesting progression, which I cannot quite follow in a relaxed manner. My relationship with floral indole, especially as a man, is still not conclusively resolved (and perhaps never will be), and when other uncertainties like the aforementioned urinous facet and a not entirely easy gourmand aspect come into play, I am more inclined to leave the scent to those who have no issues with it - which ultimately brings me to 'Lacrima' and 'Melancolia', as I can enjoy these two quite relaxed. But more on that elsewhere.
Whether 'Phantasma' now inspires erotic spirits or secret fantasies is another question. Not for me, at least.
It is a beautiful and above all interesting scent, with great but not excessive longevity and rather moderate projection - just the way I like it.
I also find the manageable number of notes in all the 'Humeurs' refreshing, as they provide a clear contrast to the overload of some Liquides scents. However, with fewer notes, the perfumer must work more precisely, blend more accurately, and calibrate.
It is exactly this care that distinguishes the three 'Humeurs'.
Addendum, 23.03.20: Although I have worn 'Phantasma' frequently now, I have not encountered the urinous undertone of the sage again. Whether it is due to a sensory adaptation or not, I do not know. It is gone, in any case.
With each wear, the scent got better and better!
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6 Comments
Now, however, I can definitely smell indolic flowers, a bit of herbal jasmine, I would say...
Super beautiful and much more complex than my first impression!