ClemensJ
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In the Tension Field Between Fascination and Aversion
Maai offers, in the right dosage, semi-domesticated and consequently wearable animalic notes. Not necessarily repulsive, but certainly more than just a little rough around the edges. A certain fondness for scents of this kind should be brought by the wearer, as Maai challenges and engages. There is nothing comfortably easy to wear here. By the way, Hyraceum is beautifully integrated here, unlike Hyrax from Zoologist.
After about 2 hours, the animalic notes dissipate in stages, remaining latent in the background. The scent brightens up a bit, changes, and develops. At times, it was really soft and wonderful. However, as time goes on, the base somewhat inversely shifts towards the top notes. Somehow it smells like horse, that scent that lingers after a ride in riding gear.
Despite everything, it lacks variety and coherent as well as equally balanced counterparts. Other animalic classics offer balance and diversity in this regard. Therefore, I agree with FabianO regarding the monothematic nature.
In my opinion, it is not a chypre, as the components - hesperides, rose/jasmine, and oakmoss - remain inconspicuous in relation to the animalic notes and do not even hold a place in the second row.
Nevertheless, it has become a good to very good fragrance. Regardless of my above assessment, Maai is carefully or skillfully positioned in the tension field between fascination and aversion, offering depth and structure. Longevity and sillage are at the upper level, in other words, above average.
After about 2 hours, the animalic notes dissipate in stages, remaining latent in the background. The scent brightens up a bit, changes, and develops. At times, it was really soft and wonderful. However, as time goes on, the base somewhat inversely shifts towards the top notes. Somehow it smells like horse, that scent that lingers after a ride in riding gear.
Despite everything, it lacks variety and coherent as well as equally balanced counterparts. Other animalic classics offer balance and diversity in this regard. Therefore, I agree with FabianO regarding the monothematic nature.
In my opinion, it is not a chypre, as the components - hesperides, rose/jasmine, and oakmoss - remain inconspicuous in relation to the animalic notes and do not even hold a place in the second row.
Nevertheless, it has become a good to very good fragrance. Regardless of my above assessment, Maai is carefully or skillfully positioned in the tension field between fascination and aversion, offering depth and structure. Longevity and sillage are at the upper level, in other words, above average.
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The Fresh-Spiced Ginger Blend
The combination of ginger and pepper creates a robustly spicy opening. In the first few minutes after spraying, the scent development, in my perception, transitions into a blend of naturally exotic bubble bath notes and sauna infusion notes, where strong citrus notes - again ginger and also blood orange - provide the crucial counterbalance for harmony.
A while later, after the top notes have softened or evaporated, a decent dose of clove emerges. One could also mention nutmeg as another spicy note. Fortunately, Ginger Lily at this stage is not solely spicy - and citrusy - but likely also shows the other side through styrax - namely warm and soft nuances. They not only slightly round off the spicy edges but also significantly enhance the wearing or comfort experience. All notes support and complement each other to form a balanced whole.
Floral notes do not unfold for my olfactory center. Perhaps these barely perceptible nuances contribute, but I cannot confirm this in this one-time test.
Even as the scent progresses, the citrusy spiciness from ginger and clove remains, gradually softening with the emergence of warm notes, likely amber and balsam. However, the now soft, spicy, and above all herb-silky texture cannot be explained solely by the two previously mentioned notes - which are known from countless other fragrances. According to the note description, the cognac makes the fine difference here. I will leave it at that.
Aside from the initial minutes, the sillage is absolutely moderate, close to the skin. Longevity is estimated at about 6 hours, maybe a little more. For my preferences, that’s a bit too little, but completely acceptable for a natural perfume. Ginger Lily, due to the mentioned moderate scent trail, is suitable for everyday and office wear. It may also be that some people nearby feel primarily irritated by the exotic spiciness.
Furthermore, I see no gender-specific tendency, so Ginger Lily is unreservedly recommended for everyone - or anyone - to test. The optimal application time would be spring and summer. I really like this scent.
A while later, after the top notes have softened or evaporated, a decent dose of clove emerges. One could also mention nutmeg as another spicy note. Fortunately, Ginger Lily at this stage is not solely spicy - and citrusy - but likely also shows the other side through styrax - namely warm and soft nuances. They not only slightly round off the spicy edges but also significantly enhance the wearing or comfort experience. All notes support and complement each other to form a balanced whole.
Floral notes do not unfold for my olfactory center. Perhaps these barely perceptible nuances contribute, but I cannot confirm this in this one-time test.
Even as the scent progresses, the citrusy spiciness from ginger and clove remains, gradually softening with the emergence of warm notes, likely amber and balsam. However, the now soft, spicy, and above all herb-silky texture cannot be explained solely by the two previously mentioned notes - which are known from countless other fragrances. According to the note description, the cognac makes the fine difference here. I will leave it at that.
Aside from the initial minutes, the sillage is absolutely moderate, close to the skin. Longevity is estimated at about 6 hours, maybe a little more. For my preferences, that’s a bit too little, but completely acceptable for a natural perfume. Ginger Lily, due to the mentioned moderate scent trail, is suitable for everyday and office wear. It may also be that some people nearby feel primarily irritated by the exotic spiciness.
Furthermore, I see no gender-specific tendency, so Ginger Lily is unreservedly recommended for everyone - or anyone - to test. The optimal application time would be spring and summer. I really like this scent.
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Just Carefree
According to the enclosed card, Ippi Patchouli in this so-called Claire variant is supposed to consist of citrus and woody accents at first. However, very little to nothing of that was noticeable. So let's skip the marketing fluff.
In my opinion, the Eau de Parfum starts off with the musk - the dominant heart note. I believe I detected tuberose in this creamy musk variant, which is not listed in the pyramid. Perhaps it’s more like coconut, as known from various body care products. The all-knowing friend Google reveals that through maceration of the strongly scented white flowers with coconut oil, a sweet-smelling oil is produced. That fits quite well. Additionally, there are lightly fruity notes from apricot and wild berries for further accentuation.
In the middle part, everything feels incredibly harmonious to me, bright, creamy-warm, floral, sweet, and certainly too feminine for most guys. For the currently sunny spring days with 20+ degrees, this scent is just perfect. Yes, it feels sweet, but it is skillfully balanced with the creamy white floral orientation. The slightly fruity notes also give it an elegant touch and fine twist.
The moderately sweet base is defined by tonka and amber, although the sillage and projection have long faded. Praline? Maybe yes, maybe no. In the blend of sweet base notes, it's hardly identifiable. Patchouli is virtually non-existent.
Longevity and sillage are (almost) impeccable; only the longevity could be a bit better in my opinion. In my view, a stronger sillage might be counterproductive and could undermine the concept. The scent is not a wallflower, and conversely, it doesn’t need a big stage.
According to the manufacturer's website, a reasonable €55 is due for 100 ml. Anyone looking for a modern and buoyant spring and summer fragrance should definitely give this perfume a try.
In my opinion, the Eau de Parfum starts off with the musk - the dominant heart note. I believe I detected tuberose in this creamy musk variant, which is not listed in the pyramid. Perhaps it’s more like coconut, as known from various body care products. The all-knowing friend Google reveals that through maceration of the strongly scented white flowers with coconut oil, a sweet-smelling oil is produced. That fits quite well. Additionally, there are lightly fruity notes from apricot and wild berries for further accentuation.
In the middle part, everything feels incredibly harmonious to me, bright, creamy-warm, floral, sweet, and certainly too feminine for most guys. For the currently sunny spring days with 20+ degrees, this scent is just perfect. Yes, it feels sweet, but it is skillfully balanced with the creamy white floral orientation. The slightly fruity notes also give it an elegant touch and fine twist.
The moderately sweet base is defined by tonka and amber, although the sillage and projection have long faded. Praline? Maybe yes, maybe no. In the blend of sweet base notes, it's hardly identifiable. Patchouli is virtually non-existent.
Longevity and sillage are (almost) impeccable; only the longevity could be a bit better in my opinion. In my view, a stronger sillage might be counterproductive and could undermine the concept. The scent is not a wallflower, and conversely, it doesn’t need a big stage.
According to the manufacturer's website, a reasonable €55 is due for 100 ml. Anyone looking for a modern and buoyant spring and summer fragrance should definitely give this perfume a try.
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The Exotic Cotton Candy Blend
The opening truly reminds me of a fair, as cotton candy and candied apple are unmistakable. Bubblegum fits in quite well. Sideshow remains in this sweet note-dominated state for quite a while, later adding a resinous sweetness. This is also because the mentioned fair notes dissipate and release further facets. Only during the transition to the base - where this mentioned sweetness continuously decreases and remains subtly in the background - does the fragrance mature with the disappearance of childish/infantile notes.
According to perfume manuals, Hyraceum is a mix of dried excrement from hair as well as plant residues and the urine of a South African hyrax/groundhog. Hyraceum is also recommended as a substitute or alternative for castoreum a.k.a beaver musk, but its use is still not particularly widespread. In another article, it mentions fossilized urine - also known as African Stone - which is said to contain pheromones. These urine stones are collected and processed into powder. (@Achilles: googling this once and clarifying has been accomplished.)
For me, this fragrance ingredient was used discreetly, as animalic notes are not present for my accustomed nose. It could well be that Hyraceum has a sweet-sensual effect. I think I detect a bit of musk. Whether leather is supposed to be in it, I cannot fully confirm after this one-time test. The perfume is not classified as synthetic, as it may happen that synthetics flicker here and there. However, in total, it is very little and negligible. Furthermore, the scent development shows neither a feminine nor masculine tendency.
Longevity is around 8-9+ hours. Sillage is good, remains constant for many hours, and diminishes simultaneously with the decrease of sweetness.
Overall, I find Sideshow very unusual, original, exotic, and very far from what the niche usually offers. Personally, the overwhelming fair sweetness - like with any other sweet fragrance - is annoying and does not captivate me. Nevertheless, I appreciate the courage and approach, and I recommend it to lovers of sweet scents. Sideshow is extravagant and remains wearable at all times. Everything is not as wild as the statements suggest. It is clearly advisable to avoid blind buying due to the concept; always test thoroughly.
Additionally, my thanks go to Serlo for his treasure-filled travel package. The composition excites me. (Comment #1 on the travel package Zoologist, Gri Gri, Jardins d'Écrivains, Dueto Parfums, ...)
According to perfume manuals, Hyraceum is a mix of dried excrement from hair as well as plant residues and the urine of a South African hyrax/groundhog. Hyraceum is also recommended as a substitute or alternative for castoreum a.k.a beaver musk, but its use is still not particularly widespread. In another article, it mentions fossilized urine - also known as African Stone - which is said to contain pheromones. These urine stones are collected and processed into powder. (@Achilles: googling this once and clarifying has been accomplished.)
For me, this fragrance ingredient was used discreetly, as animalic notes are not present for my accustomed nose. It could well be that Hyraceum has a sweet-sensual effect. I think I detect a bit of musk. Whether leather is supposed to be in it, I cannot fully confirm after this one-time test. The perfume is not classified as synthetic, as it may happen that synthetics flicker here and there. However, in total, it is very little and negligible. Furthermore, the scent development shows neither a feminine nor masculine tendency.
Longevity is around 8-9+ hours. Sillage is good, remains constant for many hours, and diminishes simultaneously with the decrease of sweetness.
Overall, I find Sideshow very unusual, original, exotic, and very far from what the niche usually offers. Personally, the overwhelming fair sweetness - like with any other sweet fragrance - is annoying and does not captivate me. Nevertheless, I appreciate the courage and approach, and I recommend it to lovers of sweet scents. Sideshow is extravagant and remains wearable at all times. Everything is not as wild as the statements suggest. It is clearly advisable to avoid blind buying due to the concept; always test thoroughly.
Additionally, my thanks go to Serlo for his treasure-filled travel package. The composition excites me. (Comment #1 on the travel package Zoologist, Gri Gri, Jardins d'Écrivains, Dueto Parfums, ...)
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Not Everybody’s Darling
Alongside the strongly bitter and harsh opening, the agarwood initially comes across as medicinal and slightly synthetic. This impression fades at the latest after half an hour. Oud Cashmere Mood is particularly characterized by an indistinct imitation of burnt plastic, chimney soot, or exhaust fumes, as mentioned earlier, rough, distant, and quite to very smoky.
On one hand, when sprayed on the chest, the transition to warm and pleasant notes doesn't quite succeed. The fragrance ingredient Oud remains harsh, and I can hardly recognize the mentioned notes like labdanum, benzoin, and vanilla. They only unfold moderately shortly before the final fading away. Oud persists almost throughout the entire pyramid.
On the other hand, when applied to the wrist, the labdanum-benzoin-vanilla composition comes across much better. However, this comes without the typically heavy and resinous sweetness found in many MFK perfumes. It is soft and fluffy light. Perhaps also balsamic and slightly bitter, but I am unsure. I perceive Oud here merely as a heart note. That labdanum is supposed to be present, I could not recognize in any way - neither this way nor that.
This raises the question of whether one should apply the fragrance behind the earlobe or on the Adam's apple or neck.
Regarding wearability, one should not let the first impression guide them. Personally, I find that the fragrance is indeed often wearable with the right dosage, especially if one can warm up to the developing scent. I do not believe that the surroundings would wrinkle their noses, aside from the opening - and in terms of sillage, that is not to be expected. Longevity is at least 7+ hours. Sillage is initially strong but noticeably decreases within 2-3 hours.
Comments about the bottle are no longer necessary; if one knows one MFK bottle, they know almost all others. Textbook product design and branding for positioning and recognition of a premium brand.
Regardless of the image and reputation of the perfume house MFK, several tests before acquiring a bottle are highly advisable, as this independent and acquired taste Oud creation is not really for everyone. A rugged Oud perfume does not appeal to everyone right away. Furthermore, Oud Cashmere Mood primarily - but not exclusively - targets a male audience due to its composition.
On one hand, when sprayed on the chest, the transition to warm and pleasant notes doesn't quite succeed. The fragrance ingredient Oud remains harsh, and I can hardly recognize the mentioned notes like labdanum, benzoin, and vanilla. They only unfold moderately shortly before the final fading away. Oud persists almost throughout the entire pyramid.
On the other hand, when applied to the wrist, the labdanum-benzoin-vanilla composition comes across much better. However, this comes without the typically heavy and resinous sweetness found in many MFK perfumes. It is soft and fluffy light. Perhaps also balsamic and slightly bitter, but I am unsure. I perceive Oud here merely as a heart note. That labdanum is supposed to be present, I could not recognize in any way - neither this way nor that.
This raises the question of whether one should apply the fragrance behind the earlobe or on the Adam's apple or neck.
Regarding wearability, one should not let the first impression guide them. Personally, I find that the fragrance is indeed often wearable with the right dosage, especially if one can warm up to the developing scent. I do not believe that the surroundings would wrinkle their noses, aside from the opening - and in terms of sillage, that is not to be expected. Longevity is at least 7+ hours. Sillage is initially strong but noticeably decreases within 2-3 hours.
Comments about the bottle are no longer necessary; if one knows one MFK bottle, they know almost all others. Textbook product design and branding for positioning and recognition of a premium brand.
Regardless of the image and reputation of the perfume house MFK, several tests before acquiring a bottle are highly advisable, as this independent and acquired taste Oud creation is not really for everyone. A rugged Oud perfume does not appeal to everyone right away. Furthermore, Oud Cashmere Mood primarily - but not exclusively - targets a male audience due to its composition.
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