DrB1414

This is a review of the original Oud Ispahan formulation, 2012-2014, which is quite different from the 2015 onward formulation. In my opinion, Dior has managed to put out the best commercial/synthetic Rose Oud perfume out there, and ever since this one came out, I still can't think of a more majestic, more opulent, flawlessly blended Rose Oud, Oriental perfume. Although synthetic, it doesn't give me a headache like most nowadays synthetic aroma chemicals do, the Oud accord doesn't smell off, but rather beautifully captures the smell of burning wood chips, and although it is a strong perfume, it doesn't give me a headache like most synthetic perfumes do. To me, the OG Ispahan smells very much like OG Leather Oud (2010-2013) with added Rose, a watery and transparent Rose accord, not a jammy and overly sweet one like in today's version. The Rose accord almost smells like Rose Wine and has a bit of a fermented quality that lends such a beautiful touch. The Rose pops right off the bat but it doesn't stay throughout the perfume's life, it slowly fades away and the perfume becomes quite animalic and dense, with notes of labdanum, civet, patchouli, and burning wood chips. I'd say the civet and the labdanum dominate the dry-down, coming off as a pissy-leather accord infused with wood smoke. This is amazing stuff, super sexy to wear, with a strong Oriental aroma, very potent and luxurious. Do yourself a favor and search for even a small amount of this, even a 10ml decant will last for a very long time. The 2015 onward version is more Rose dominant, the rose is more jammy and sweet, the base is less dense and animalic, and the oud accord smells more synthetic and nauseating. The post-2018 versions are not even worth bothering with. I'll cherish my 2012 bottle forever, as well as the rest of the original Privee releases that I own. Truly sad to see how this amazing line has gone to waste.

Al-Fajr (Dawn) is Olibanum perfection. This one and Sultan Pasha's Ame Sombre are the best compositions that explore the Frankincense accord, at least to me. This one is more on the Orthodox church, cold olibanum smell, backed up by some earthy soft oud in the base, dry vetiver, and moss. I don't get a strong Oud as in Al Layl(The Night), nor the same Hindi fermented type, here it's more of an earthy variety, that is cleverly blended with vetiver and oakmoss. I also don't pick up the rose in here. It very much sings a perfect song about Olibanum, and it also has that oily almost texture to it like you'd burn the resin and pour the oil on yourself. This does absolutely not justify its price tag, but I love it and it does for me. Sometimes is better to let your nose and senses decide rather than the rational part of your brain. Because it's not as animalic nor loud as Al Layl, or Al Waad, this can be worn more easily without offending innocent bystanders.

Extremely boring, repetitive theme, bottled as attar in a gorgeous presentation.
The perfume itself is so boring and basically an attar bottled version of your popular men's cologne, a mix of resins, spices, and aromatic herbs. Meant to smell sexy, inviting, and elegant, but nothing daring or interesting about it. An easy grabber for those who want a boring office scent that doesn't offend. Think Dior Eau Sauvage Parfum from 2012 but in attar format. I'm amazed so many people praise this utter mediocrity. This is not spectacular in any way. The only amazing thing about it is the bottle, which is one of the most beautiful bottles I've ever come across. Pure art. However, I matured as a collector and realized that it didn't make sense to keep a good-looking bottle for a subpar perfume, so I sold it. There are hundred better attars out there and a thousand better perfumes, so don't be crying over this, unless you want to have a nice-looking bottle sitting on your shelf.

Pohadka from Ys-Uzac is an amazing agrestic perfume that smells like nothing else. It feels like a cross between Fougere Bengale and Tabac Tabou, sprinkled with minty Shiso on top. Subtle and long-lasting, natural smelling, and elegant while remaining an artistic exercise in this genre. It blooms in the heat.
The opening is all about minty Shiso, grass, and hay. Bright, invigorating, warm, and green. Like taking a road trip in the countryside and lowering your car window to get a whiff while chewing mint-flavored gum. Shiso is traditionally used in Japanese cuisine and has this sparkling minty flavor to it. A unique touch in this composition that works so well. The best part about it is that this accord lasts well through the heart of the perfume, not just as an opening burst.
Soon, the composition warms up as the Immortelle starts creeping in, lending a beautifully sweet, herbaceous touch. Perfectly dosed and not too heavy. This ingredient can sometimes feel overpowering but here it is light and caressing. The same goes for the Jasmine accord that sides with the immortelle. A mere whisper.
The base displays powdery tobacco and soft brown leather, pairing seamlessly with the immortelle. It settles down like a glowing golden-brown flume, just like the sun sets down the landscape at sunset.
It feels like a trip in the countryside ending at dusk, when the colors deepen over the land just like the perfume settles from a bright, invigorating opening on a richer, brown-hued base. Excellent craftsmanship and an overlooked perfume. One that should be on the sampling list of all fans of agrestic compositions or fans of Cortichiatto's style, as it does hint at the aforementioned Parfum d'Empire compositions while staying original.

IG:@memory.of.scents

In my opinion, here you have the best use of Siberian Deer Musk in perfumery, so far. I'm a long advocate and lover of the original EO2 parfum, but this one, is better. More complex, more balls, and better blended. Oh, did I mention it's half the price and at a higher concentration? Yes.
Onthamara uses two core materials that lead the composition as a duet, the musk and the amber fossil. They marry beautifully here, the musk with it's animalic, earthy, chocolatey and pissy facets, perfectly tamed by the smokiness, dryness, leathery, and sweet facets of the amber. Around these, you have other notes dancing around, rounding everything. Woods, spices, tobacco. At the end, you get this multifaceted smoky, ambery, musky perfume, that makes people get close to you, and dances around like a hypnotic aura for hours and hours. Perfectly dosed dirtiness, never too much to offend, just enough to intrigue. I love it so much, I had to get a backup. Top 3 ever Prin releases for me.