Farneon

Well, it's partly wonderful to read how much reference is made to "The Third Man" in the reviews here, the classic B/W film from 1949. However, the fragrance was created about 35 years later and is now already over 35 years old. One could say: It's celebrating halftime! :-)

At least in terms of "half-life," it is very enduring, and I don't want to make some absurd comparisons to the Vienna sewer system or Orson Welles' personal scent. Quite pragmatically, I note that here - as with many other fragrances from the 1980s - an olfactory bridge to modern times is being built.

"Le 3ᵉ Homme" hovers somewhere in the realm of "My spicy citrus power beats your mossy lavender soap by lengths!" ;-) The name The Third Man is not poorly chosen because this EDT tries to unite the best of Man 1 (that post-war policeman from the film) and Man 2 (a sort of Miami Vice knockoff). Unfortunately, Man 2 has also already left more than three decades behind ... ! ;-)

I like many 80s fragrances, even though I can't relate to the fashion of that time and the best of them can only be bought as dupes now. Probably because those bridges were built that picked up young masculinity without completely neglecting the good old school. According to the motto "Everything comes back," some old-school fragrances are experiencing a renaissance today thanks to barbershops.

Now to the main point: "Le 3ᵉ Homme": Even though the ingredients seem anything but original, the overall scent is still distinctive. Perfectly crafted, everything comes together into a whole that is truly unmistakable. I always admire such things, especially nowadays, where even Guerlain smells like Rabanne or YSL like Lacoste.

What I mean is: I am grateful for a kind of originality that is hardly found today. Unfortunately, this overall construct is not really my thing, which is a matter of personal taste. Lavender and oakmoss are simply not my preferred scent notes, and the so-called green is not my preferred aura. Those who like it will surely be pleased!

This extremely affordable fragrance slightly (!) reminds me of the no longer produced classic "D&G By Man," even though "Uomo?" was released a year earlier. This may have to do with the synthetic fragrance ingredient called Hedione, which is said to smell jasmine-like, but certainly comes across as particularly unique (I would say aquatic-floral).

The question mark in the name "Uomo?" makes sense in this case, as the EDT could also pass as unisex, which is by no means a drawback. Of course, due to the price, there are likely other synthetic ingredients at play (what exactly is a solar note?), but I don't have a problem with that, especially since we are dealing with at least 80 percent synthetically produced alcohol in almost all the fragrances we discuss here! ;-)

In my nose, "Uomo?" comes across as very harmonious, perhaps because spicy, floral, and woody notes are integrated from the top to the base notes. Longevity and sillage are not outstanding, but for the price of about 20 euros for 75 ml, it's more than acceptable. For me, it is a very distinctive office-friendly everyday scent that does not derive its freshness from citrus fruits and does not end as woody as many of its counterparts.

What some others can detect here is honestly a mystery to me!

Hm, the much-praised and highly celebrated "Terre d'Hermès" (TDH)! As a fan of vetiver and freshness, it should ideally appeal to me... and it does, but with certain limitations, as I have since tested many other fragrances with a similar DNA.

I received my first bottle shortly after the release of this fragrance, and my first thought at the time was: "interesting"! ;-) ... It was like eating sushi or drinking whiskey for the first time in life (referring to the experience, not the scent, of course).

Back then, TDH somehow overwhelmed me with its unexpected top note and sillage, even though I was already familiar with some more extreme (!) fragrances from Azzaro to Yves Saint-Laurent to Mugler in the mid-2000s. However, I quickly got used to the earthy freshness and the citrusy wood, which I had not encountered before (not to mention vetiver as a key ingredient).

I probably can't add anything groundbreaking to the over 150 reviews here. There are certainly more experienced and seasoned "sniffers" among the authors than me. After almost 15 years, I now really like TDH. Overall, however, I find it a bit too intrusive and unbalanced for its DNA.

I wish I could describe it better, but I would probably appreciate it if the intense sharp-sour notes were softened by a slightly (!) sweet-floral addition, like the tonka bean in "Cuir Vetiver" by (hold on!) Yves Rocher! :-)

Conclusion (subjective, as always): too intense for the office, too spritzing for going out, too flashy for sports, and too earthy for dating! When should I wear it then? In between, I guess! ;-)

Of course, there is a big difference between treating yourself to a blind buy for 20 euros because it’s available everywhere at a low price, or investing 200 euros in an untested niche fragrance that is not so easy to obtain! I always choose the former! :-) Sure, you might be disappointed from time to time, but you are less attached to the purchased product and tell yourself "Pizza for two" doesn’t cost any more! ;-)

That's how I felt as a vetiver fan (you just have to like it) with "Cuir Vetiver" by Yves Rocher. I also believe that you shouldn't underestimate established cosmetic brands like this one or Clinique, Avon, and Jovan. They inherently know more about fragrances and skincare than, for example, Mercedes-Benz, Lacoste, Adidas, Jaguar, or Diesel. Sure, their perfume business is outsourced, but decades of accumulated expertise has its advantages.

Many think we are dealing with a clone of Terre d'Hermès here, but that's only partially true. To my nose, the sillage is not so extraordinarily pronounced (which I appreciate in this case), and the whole earthy-fresh roundness is significantly softened by the tonka bean. Nevertheless, the basic DNA remains intact. Some may miss the pepper or the orange, but in the office or among many people, I actually feel more comfortable with "Cuir Vetiver" because there is also a slight sweetness at play.

In this sense: There are alternatives in the lower price segment that may lean towards famous fragrances but still stand on their own and seem more suitable for everyday wear. After all, the perfumer has also worked for Narciso Rodriguez, Liquides Imaginaires, and Tom Ford!

Anyone (like me) who likes vetiver will definitely feel at home here!

Shortly after its release, I received "Bulgari pour Homme" in the regular version as a gift from my then-girlfriend. It was my first encounter with the brand at all. To this day, I practically always have a bottle of this fragrance on my shelf because it possesses a unique fresh aura in my nose. Back then, I didn't think about the individual ingredients, but I believe tea, flowers, and (above all) musk contribute to the unmistakable character of the original, which I find extremely pleasing, alongside the citrus notes. Unfortunately, "Bulgari pour Homme" suffers from quite weak longevity and sillage.

Of course, at some point, you also want to try the "extreme" brother, hoping that this flaw would be resolved. However, that is only partially the case. Extreme is initially nothing here. The flanker has simply been tuned for longer longevity, which is indeed noticeable - but to the detriment of the original. Much higher citrus, wood, and spice components make BPHE a significantly more ordinary fresh fragrance, although I would have expected otherwise.

Thus, the originality in the top and base notes has regrettably been lost, although one can still speak of a flanker that deserves this name due to the similar DNA. The difference between the two Bulgari "men" is also only visually expressed by a small print on the bottle. And it is much more noticeable on my skin than on the test strip, where both fragrances differed only marginally for me.

There is no question that we are still dealing with a very nice and clean fresh fragrance with BPHE (one doesn't need the umpteenth "Acva" version for that), but it lacks the uniqueness of the original. Wood and spices provide a slightly longer longevity, while the sillage remains more or less close to the skin. If you have one, you certainly don't need the other as well.