GothicHeart
GothicHeart's Blog
10 years ago - 04/29/2015
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The lesser saints of my perfume temple...

We live in times of great excess. No one seems to show any inclination towards being a better person anymore. Not in the sense of being useful and helpful to others at least. They all want to be extremely famous and make shedloads of money. Especially younger people, who found this web of trivialities already woven when they were born.

Bruce Dickinson in "Tattooed Millionaire" has described perfectly what I'm talking about.

"Bodyguards, porn stars, gold credit cards.

Using each other. Running for cover."

And to think that this song was written in 1990...Since then the media have domineered our reality, achieving status which in no way they deserve, and the frequencies have become overburdened with talent shows, reality shows, pretentious and stupid illiterate anchormen and reporters, and everything that has driven our hearth (extinguished) wisdom to coin a term such as "trash TV".

Apologies, I got carried away. Again...This is supposed to be a perfume blog after all.

However the described situation could not exclude fragrances, because as consumer goods, they follow the ups and downs of the impulsive emotional stock market. I mean, no matter how good a fragrance may be, what would be its chances without promotion to the extreme? The fact that mediocre or even bad fragrances gain worldwide recognition and huge sales boost due to merciless advertising, indicate that the answer in the previous question is "None". But today I'm going to talk solely out of my heart and sentiment. And although "little" here has nothing to do with real importance, I'm going to pay a tribute to all these little saints, who shaped our prayers to Bastet back in the day. To all these mostly unknown and possibly forgotten gems, which put a bittersweet smile on my face every time we pay each other a visit.

They are the humble ones. The ones launched with no fanfare or huge advertising campaigns. The ones that went unnoticed, despite being exceptionally good. The ones that got discontinued and sunk into oblivion. The ones that are usually sold for a song. Many of them were launched when there were only two state-owned TV chanels in Greece and internet was a science fiction flick thing. Thus the only way of making their aquaintance was by visiting the little, family-owned cosmetics shops of the time. Honest little scents, which were not afraid of failure or contempt. Because deep inside their little hearts, they knew that they were made for people that never went for the big bucks or the tinsel limelight; not even in the small towns they were living in. People like me and (I hope) you.

I hold very fond memories about a lot of them, but they're too many to be mentioned. The ones I chose are not a case of selective memory, and it doesn't mean that they're the best. It's just a quick browsing through my memories lying closer to the surface. And although I love every single one appearing on my list, liking or not any of them wouldn't really matter, cause it's the associated feelings that make a difference in the end. For example, I never liked Ysatis, but I lived some of my happiest moments in a world reeking of it.

So, a dozen of them. Six for the ladies and six for the gents. Have you ever tested or even heard of any of these?

Acte 2 by Escada (1995)

How a strange flower grown in a hostile world, millions of light years away from Earth would smell like.

Turbulences by Revillon (1981)

Lingering in teenager rooms of girls with whom we were secretly in love. And who were usually a couple of years older. The smell of innocence and carefreeness, before life took its toll.

Initiation by Molyneux (1990)

Prom queens who hated their mothers, but in the same time worshipped the ground they walked on.

Calyx by Prescriptives (1986)

Huge smiles. Bliss galore. An overwhelming summer feel, even when worn with -10°C outside. Although it was quite famous in its time, no one seems to remember it anymore. And this is a crying shame!

L'Insolent by Charles Jourdan (1986)

I've never seen a gloomier face in a perfume ad than the one a young and unknown Monica Bellucci is wearing in this one. And while I don't know if this was intentional, it's spot-on in any case. L'Insolent is a desperate, yet silent cry of someone who is drowning, but doesn't have the strength to reach for the surface. So the perfume acts like a flare, launched to get the attention of anyone willing to save a soul. Thus, I think that its in-your-face name is just a panoply, intended to deflect the world's malice against a sensitive girl. Maybe the fact that I find her stunningly beautiful in "The passion of the Christ" could explain why I love this perfume so much. So broken...So sad...So beautiful...

Atelier by Sergio Soldano (1988)

A heavy hitter for girls who wanted to smell like grown up ladies but couldn't afford doing so. Colossal sillage and longevity, to the point of embarassing vintage Poison. And that's no piece of cake.

Enrico Coveri Pour Homme by Enrico Coveri (1983)

Plain sophistication, not for the sake of it, but simply because there was no other way.

Homme de Grès by Grès (1996)

The sheer surprise of someone who fell asleep during the '70s and woke up in the '00s. He still wonders how he managed to survive the cultural shock and why Terre d'Hermès is so famous.

Borsalino by Borsalino (1984)

To tell the truth, Enrico Coveri pour Homme and Borsalino are two of these fragrances that make me wonder if France truly outweighs every other country in perfume terms, when on the other side of the scale is Italy. Borsalino was the rather rough and loud taxi driver cousin of the gentler and more refined architect that Enrico Coveri pour Homme was. If Enrico Coveri pour Homme was living in Florence, Borsalino would live in Naples. And if Enrico Coveri pour Homme was wearing a fine tailored brown suede jacket bought in a high-end boutique in Milan, Borsalino would wear a cheap and shiny black one, smuggled at night by sailors of questionable morals.

Salvador by Salvador Dali (1992)

An exquisite paragon of artfulness, of both the fragrance itself and the vessel containing it. Had Salvador Dali pour Homme not been unequaled in the known universe, this artifact in every sense of the word would be the spearhead of masculine perfumes of the '90s.

Anthracite by Jacomo (1991)

Young men pretending to be way braver than they actually were, every time a frightened damsel in distress was watching them.

Caractère by Daniel Hechter (1989)

A shocking example of how a scent can evoke dirty thoughts and make an adolescent's cheeks blush with guilt, although he practically didn't do anything wrong. One of the most shady fragrances I've ever laid my nostrils on, and a perfect fit for any self-esteemed libertine.

My perfume journey thus far has brought me to every farflung corner of the perfume world, and I've tested hundreds of scents, ranging from the least famous and dirt cheap to the most acknowledged and unduly pricey. The latter being of course tested through samples, donated by generous defenders of the perfume lore, cause paying 200-300 bucks for a fragrance never crossed my mind. No matter how good it was. But after every wearisome expedition in the messy chaos that modern perfumery has become, I'll silently retreat in the arms of my pre-'80s little bottle of Tabac Original and feel like home every single time. Cause no matter how often I forget to pay them my respects, these humble lesser saints are always forgiving...

6 Comments
GothicHeartGothicHeart 10 years ago
You're so right! I'd definitely buy a fragrance named "Knights who say Ni". And although I'm usually not into flankers, I'd surely give "Ekke Ekke Ekke Ekke Ptang Zoooooooom Boing Z'norrwringmm!" a chance...
PBullFriendPBullFriend 10 years ago
Dear GH: I Googled to find out the source of the "caramelized semen" quote, and it turns out to be a reviewer on Fragrantica. I smell NOTHING of the sort in Cumming, and I've never seen that mentioned in a review, either. Therefore, I'm guessing that that reviewer smelled such a thing through the power of suggestion. (Maybe Q80 made up his mind based on the name?) What a horrible thought! (The non-caramelized semen odeur in Secretions Magnifique was stomach-turning enough for me, thanks.) Here is my review of Cumming: http://www.parfumo.com/Perfumes/Alan_Cumming/Cumming/Reviews/22666 I should have been more clear - while I'm no connoisseuse of whiskey, I do feel warmed by the scent of Cumming. While top-shelf whiskeys are probably on a par with Cumming price-wise, I'm disinclined to drink it. It IS also a treat to have a "celebrity" perfume named after someone who's genuinely funny and interesting instead of someone who's merely tall, thin, and pouty. Surely I'm not alone in thinking that I'd try scents named after Monty Python members, British sitcom characters, and such. It's a bit surprising that Brosius hasn't pursued that!
GothicHeartGothicHeart 10 years ago
Sorry, but no fear! I don't like either gourmands or aquatics, thus I don't want to smell like this: "yes!!... as the top note it is true... i smell caramelized seamen (or cum) alike. and true as well that the perfume fits the atmosphere of the video! i can feel the smell of fabrics, abit sweat, skin, and seamen. it's kind of disgusting, each time im smelling it from my wrest i remember the video. i guess i should give it more time cause the middle and the base notes are kind of accepted." So, smelling like caramelized seamen is out of question. Oh, and I also don't like testing my fragrances on wrests or any other tools. I prefer testing them on paper napkins. Truth be told, I've never tried Cumming's Cumming, but this cracks me up every time! http://i62.tinypic.com/2q9cmy8.jpg I guess that being born in Aberfeldy surely played its part in his usquebaugh fragrant endeavours. Other than that, I've partially solved the longevity issues by using 12 and 15 years old single malts as a solvent in these: http://www.parfumo.com/Users/GothicHeart/Picture/33036 - http://www.parfumo.com/Users/GothicHeart/Picture/33043 Thanks again and...Wait, what was that again? "I'm no connoisseur, but I do keep myself warm with it on many a winter's night."? I hope I got the syntax all wrong, thus the "no connoisseur" thing doesn't mean that you actually drink this brilliant Scot's hilariously irreverent concoction instead of wearing it...
PBullFriendPBullFriend 10 years ago
Thanks for the background, GH! Hey, I don't see any reason to imitate US accents, anyway. Though I have a bog-standard one, myself, they're not especially charming, and their charm has certainly not been increased by the number of crappy movies and TV shows the US has inflicted upon the world. As to the malty longevity, though - have you ever tried Alan Cumming's Cumming? (There are two of these - both by C. Brosius - the second is called - sigh - "Second Cumming.") I'm no connoisseur, but I do keep myself warm with it on many a winter's night.
GothicHeartGothicHeart 10 years ago
I grew up during an era when literally everyone was using fragrance. Tosca and Russisch Leder for my grandparents, Calandre and Magie Noire for my aunts, Balafre and Macassar for my uncles, and Fidji for my mother (the latter being launched two years before I was born, to hint your contemporaneity assumption). So "monkey see, monkey do" was rather inevitable. It was an era when "What are you wearing?" was a question asked at least twice daily, and not once in a blue moon as it is nowadays. Fragrance back then was a conversation starter and not something considered offensive or politically incorrect when used in any working or meeting place. That's why I can't help but smile bitterly, every time I read that a perfume is "office safe". I wonder if this stupid term applies in "La Capitale Mondiale du Parfum" as well, cause I have a feeling that it wouldn't stand a chance in Italy. As for my whereabouts, I've always lived in Greece, and I've only visited Great Britain twice in my life, both times during the '80s, spending three weeks in Norwich and one week in London. However, you've noticed something which I can't adequately explain. I speak English with a very prominent English accent, and I find it way easier to imitate Scottish or Irish accents than American ones. Maybe it's the fact that, a sunny Greek island aside, the other place I'm dreaming of ending my days in, is a room above the malting floor of some Scottish distillery (preferably on Islay). Whisky is the other greatest love of my life, though I'm no heavy drinker, and if I ever managed to overcome its longevity issues, rest assured that I'd wear it instead of fragrance one time out of two. Thanks a million and Sláinte!
PBullFriendPBullFriend 10 years ago
Wow. As usual, a great blog entry! I think the only one of these I've tried is Calyx, though I've heard of about half, and we must be roughly contemporaries. This makes me quite sorry that I didn't pay much attention to perfume when I was a child/teen. And, yes - while so many people think of France as La Capitale Mondiale du Parfum, I find many more Italian scents in my collection and on my wishlist. Now I'm curious - have you always lived in Greece? There's something I think of as British (only more lustful) in the way you write. (And "lustful," here, is a compliment.)

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