Leatherama | Part 3

List number 3! The most interesting fact I realised by drafting these lists is that I own (owned, or sampled) many more leather fragrances than I thought... so, perhaps I was wrong when I initially stated that it's not really my favourite style of perfumery. Leather notes (and accords) are very common, and quite frequently leather is not specifically listed.
Before we transcend into deep philosophical thoughts, let me stop so we can move on to the actual list. This time, we "only" have 5 fragrances. As we are steadily approaching the Leather Olympus of the Heavy Hitters, I don't want to overload your olfactory senses.
Usual reminder about the fact that this is a subjective view and if something captures your interest, either here or in my other lists (have a look!), I encourage you to sample first!

Argos - Fall of Phaeton | 8.5/10
I will skip the story on how I ended up in getting this, as this is supposedly a "quick-fire review... but hear me out, this one is really good!
Fall of Phaeton's composition opens with a vivid citrus burst, spiked with spicy medium-intensity cardamom, pink pepper, and ginger. As the top notes dissolve, you will start smelling a diffused combination of leather and (very soft, but perceptible) oud. As the scent evolves further notes will appear: labdanum, lavender, vanilla and ultimately musk.
The leather in Fall of Phaeton is minimally animalic and smoothly textured... it smells like slightly smoked suede.
Performance is very good, with moderate projection in the first 2-3 hours and an 8+ hours longevity on skin. The composition is versatile, and can be worn all year round. The spices, leather and non-obnoxious vanilla will support it during colder months, whilst the initial fresh components will work well in the heath.
Absolutely worth sampling!
- Leather component: present, but it's well blended among other notes
- Animalic rudeness: very minimal

Guerlain - Cuir Intense | 8.75/10
Cuir Intense begins with a note that I'd describe as reminiscent of shoe polish or lacquered leather. It is sharp and almost industrial. After 30 minutes, the leather accord begins to evolve, leaning into a drier, more tarry leather.
As the scent develops, the harshness of the opening mellows significantly. Osmanthus and ylang-ylang introduce a subtle floral sweetness, softening the leather’s edges and opening the path to a warm, resinous base.
In the dry-down, sandalwood, tobacco, and cedar emerge, lending a creamy, smoky, and slightly sweet finish.
Overall, Cuir Intense can be described as a unisex (but masculine leaning) long-lasting multi-stage "true leather" fragrance. I only sampled it twice, but the quality is in line with the rest of the Absolus Allegoria line.
- Leather component: dominant, and developing
- Animalic rudeness: minimal

Amouage - Enclave | 8.75/10
Enclave was the second fragrance from Amouage I added to my collection. It opens with a cool burst of "Orbit mint", sharpened by the warmth of cinnamon and aromatic cardamom. As it settles, the composition moves into a leathery amber heart, layered with a balsamic undertone. While not intensely animalic, the leather does have a subtle, musky, and furry tendency that adds complexity. In its late dry down, Enclave reveals its smokiness and resinous depth. To this day, this fragrance remains a very atypical approach to leather and one of my Amouage faves.
- Leather component: secondary
- Animalic rudeness: minimal, musky

Rubini - Nuvolari | 8.75/10
If you are not familiar with it, Nuvolari is an artistic niche and narrative led fragrance. The use of leather refers to the essence of a vintage racing car cockpit: worn leather seats, sun-warmed dashboards, and the scent of gasoline-fueled journeys. Rather than leaning into the plush or smoky tropes of leather, Cristiano Canali renders it with grit and texture: raw, dry, and evocative of motion (thanks to other notes).
The leather here emerges early, flanked by flashes of rose and asphalt, then deepens into a dry down that feels "mechanical". It’s not polished or luxurious, but it's not even animalic. It’s lived-in, functional and industrial, as it integrates with the industrial accord of tar, motor oil, and metallic heat.
Unlike many artistic conceptual fragrances, Nuvolari remains wearable and to date, it remains the best in Rubini's lineup IMHO.
- Leather component: present and perceptible, but it is balanced by other notes
- Animalic rudeness: nope

Astrophil & Stella - In Extremis | 8.75/10
In Extremis (by Meo Fusciuni) offers a narrative driven take on leather, inspired by Caravaggio’s life and art. If you don't know who Caravaggio was, we have a problem. The leather used here is textured and shadowy, softened slightly by a green galbanum edge and sharpened by a mastic note.
As the scent evolves, a gentle floral heart (featuring chamomile and other light, genderless blooms) emerges, casting a soft glow against the darker base. This contrast mirrors Caravaggio’s dramatic interplay of light and shadow, giving the leather a sense of movement.
In the dry down, the leather becomes more pronounced, joined by oakmoss, woods, and a tinge of frankincense. It vaguely recalls the elegance of Nouveau Monde, but with a more introspective tone. The result is a leather that feels worn, storied, and dark.
The overall performance is very good, in line with the price and with the fact that In Extremis is an extrait de parfum.
- Leather component: dominant
- Animalic rudeness: musk and ambergris make it a bit animalic