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A short lived orange aromatic fragrance. Better options abound!
Concentré d'Orange Verte is a much-celebrated citrus fragrance from Hermes that has achieved an almost cult status. This was created by Jean Guichard in 2004, possibly inspired by Hermes Eau d'Orange Verte created by Françoise Caron in 1979. The Concentré is not a concentrated version of Eau d'Orange Verte, as the notes are different except for the opening orange. This review is based on full bottle recently purchased from Jomashop.
Hermes lists only orange, cedar and patchouli as the main notes, but Parfumo and other websites also include basil and amber. Concentré d'Orange Verte opens with a strong blast of citrus, presumably a green orange. I am not confident in my skills to distinguish citrus notes that are similar. If someone tells me that this initial note is bergamot, I will not argue. The opening citrus note changes color as you watch it, which is within a few minutes on my skin. It is gone very quickly to be replaced by a mellow basilic citrus note. Everything citrus disappears in less than half an hour, leaving behind a medicinal aromatic accord. The citrus notes live a little longer on my clothes. The heart notes are a nice blend of basil, cedar and patchouli with a hint of citrus. This combination reminds me of my grandmother’s Ayurvedic oils from my childhood. This aromatic blend of notes sinks gradually into my skin in a few hours with no further development into base notes. Like many Hermes perfumes, this one is also afflicted by longevity problems.
The performance of Concentré d'Orange Verte is very modest on my skin. Coming from Hermes, I wasn’t expecting a lot in the performance department. The main orange note in the opening is very short-lived on my skin, but a little longer on my clothes. The patchouli, cedar and other aromatic accords that follow the citrus notes last 3-4 hours on my skin. The sillage is modest, but appropriate for a citrus-dominant perfume. No teenager is going to be impressed by its power. It is perfectly safe to wear in an office setting, though you need another spritzing in 4-5 hours.
Concentré d'Orange Verte is very underwhelming to me as a perfume. It is nice and inoffensive, but I can use a little bit more spice and sweetness to spruce up my life. It is not terrible to have a bottle to use as an easy default, particularly since 100 ml costs less than $60 in the US. I may continue using this as a travel perfume, or put it for sale if I find a better citrus.
Hermes lists only orange, cedar and patchouli as the main notes, but Parfumo and other websites also include basil and amber. Concentré d'Orange Verte opens with a strong blast of citrus, presumably a green orange. I am not confident in my skills to distinguish citrus notes that are similar. If someone tells me that this initial note is bergamot, I will not argue. The opening citrus note changes color as you watch it, which is within a few minutes on my skin. It is gone very quickly to be replaced by a mellow basilic citrus note. Everything citrus disappears in less than half an hour, leaving behind a medicinal aromatic accord. The citrus notes live a little longer on my clothes. The heart notes are a nice blend of basil, cedar and patchouli with a hint of citrus. This combination reminds me of my grandmother’s Ayurvedic oils from my childhood. This aromatic blend of notes sinks gradually into my skin in a few hours with no further development into base notes. Like many Hermes perfumes, this one is also afflicted by longevity problems.
The performance of Concentré d'Orange Verte is very modest on my skin. Coming from Hermes, I wasn’t expecting a lot in the performance department. The main orange note in the opening is very short-lived on my skin, but a little longer on my clothes. The patchouli, cedar and other aromatic accords that follow the citrus notes last 3-4 hours on my skin. The sillage is modest, but appropriate for a citrus-dominant perfume. No teenager is going to be impressed by its power. It is perfectly safe to wear in an office setting, though you need another spritzing in 4-5 hours.
Concentré d'Orange Verte is very underwhelming to me as a perfume. It is nice and inoffensive, but I can use a little bit more spice and sweetness to spruce up my life. It is not terrible to have a bottle to use as an easy default, particularly since 100 ml costs less than $60 in the US. I may continue using this as a travel perfume, or put it for sale if I find a better citrus.
1 Comment
Wrong notes listed on Parfumo
The notes listed on Parfumo for Jour 9 are completely wrong. Majouri website and Jovoy lists these:
TOP NOTES: Wonderful plum, magnolia and spicy pink peppercorn express happiness.
MIDDLE NOTES: Heart notes blend the violet notes of orris, sumptuous saffron with osmanthus.
BASE NOTES: A base of Oud, blended with benzoin and labdanum leave a deep, woody trail.
TOP NOTES: Wonderful plum, magnolia and spicy pink peppercorn express happiness.
MIDDLE NOTES: Heart notes blend the violet notes of orris, sumptuous saffron with osmanthus.
BASE NOTES: A base of Oud, blended with benzoin and labdanum leave a deep, woody trail.
A lovely citrus aromatic perfume, but unexceptional is a crowded market
Vespri Espiridati is a citrus aromatic perfume created by Marie Duchêne for Nobile 1942. This review is based on a sample from Jovoy Paris.
The notes listed for Vespri Espiridati on Jovoy’s website are lemon, bergamot, mandarin, grapefruit, lavender, jasmine, orange, mugwort, petitgrain, amber, sandalwood, patchouli, benzoin and oakmoss. As you can see, citrus notes dominate this perfume. It opens with bergamot and mandarin but notes from the heart such as lavender and petit grain are also perceptible in the opening. In a few minutes, the aromatic notes – mugwort and lavender - get stronger and gain equal footing with the hesperidic notes. Jasmine adds sweetness to the middle though you are unlikely to identify the floral note as jasmine. Both the top notes and the heart notes are lovely. When we get to the bottom, none of the listed base notes really stand out. It is a nice, but generic blend of sandalwood, patchouli and resins. The base notes are too diffuse to make any statement.
The performance is very good on my skin for a citrus perfume. I can smell the aromatic notes even six hours after the spray. The sillage is good enough for a citrus perfume. This is a perfume designed to fit in, not stand out.
So, how do I rate this perfume? It is no doubt a nice fragrance, but perhaps a little too expensive at the cost of €110 for 75 ml. The main concern is that this perfume does not separate itself in the crowded space of citrus aromatic perfumes. You could get something equally good for half the price.
The notes listed for Vespri Espiridati on Jovoy’s website are lemon, bergamot, mandarin, grapefruit, lavender, jasmine, orange, mugwort, petitgrain, amber, sandalwood, patchouli, benzoin and oakmoss. As you can see, citrus notes dominate this perfume. It opens with bergamot and mandarin but notes from the heart such as lavender and petit grain are also perceptible in the opening. In a few minutes, the aromatic notes – mugwort and lavender - get stronger and gain equal footing with the hesperidic notes. Jasmine adds sweetness to the middle though you are unlikely to identify the floral note as jasmine. Both the top notes and the heart notes are lovely. When we get to the bottom, none of the listed base notes really stand out. It is a nice, but generic blend of sandalwood, patchouli and resins. The base notes are too diffuse to make any statement.
The performance is very good on my skin for a citrus perfume. I can smell the aromatic notes even six hours after the spray. The sillage is good enough for a citrus perfume. This is a perfume designed to fit in, not stand out.
So, how do I rate this perfume? It is no doubt a nice fragrance, but perhaps a little too expensive at the cost of €110 for 75 ml. The main concern is that this perfume does not separate itself in the crowded space of citrus aromatic perfumes. You could get something equally good for half the price.
Lovely citrus floral fragrance - elegant and inexpensive
Nature Insolente is a lovely inexpensive herbaceous citrus floral from Maison Matine. I have a soft corner for cheap perfumes that are modest and elegant, and don’t punch above their weight. Maison Matine has a few of those. Nature Insolente is one of the many creations by Philippine Courtière for Maison Matine. This review is based on an original sample, bought from Jovoy Paris.
The notes listed for Nature Insolente on Jovoy’s website are orange, lemon, bergamot, lily of the Valley, mint, melon, honey, vetiver, musk and cedar wood. The opening is a lovely citrus, which is somehow more vibrant than that in many expensive fresh scents. Bergamot leads the show but the other two are perceptible also. Very soon, you start getting hints of mint, lily of the valley, plus some minor nuances of melon. For my nose, this combination feels more like mint and fig leaf. I cannot spot any honey notes in it. But these heart notes are beautiful, and they mimic many expensive fragrances like Givenchy Trouble Fete. These notes are still there when we get to the base notes, but vetiver, musk and cedar takeover at this stage. These notes provide a collective aura, instead of dominant personalities. The base notes and dry down are too mild to make a big statement.
The performance of Nature Insolente is good enough for the ingredients it contains. It last 4-6 hours on my skin, but most of it as a skin scent. The sillage is fine in the first few hours, again as expected for a citrus fragrance. This will work fine in an office setting, without calling attention to itself.
I recommend Nature Insolente if you are in the market for an inexpensive fresh floral perfume. The three layers of this perfume can evoke three different sets of perfumes. I won’t be surprised if someone says that it overlaps with what they already have. Therefore, testing and comparing is mandatory before you buy a bottle. There are worse ways to spend €50 than on a 50 ml bottle of Nature Insolente.
The notes listed for Nature Insolente on Jovoy’s website are orange, lemon, bergamot, lily of the Valley, mint, melon, honey, vetiver, musk and cedar wood. The opening is a lovely citrus, which is somehow more vibrant than that in many expensive fresh scents. Bergamot leads the show but the other two are perceptible also. Very soon, you start getting hints of mint, lily of the valley, plus some minor nuances of melon. For my nose, this combination feels more like mint and fig leaf. I cannot spot any honey notes in it. But these heart notes are beautiful, and they mimic many expensive fragrances like Givenchy Trouble Fete. These notes are still there when we get to the base notes, but vetiver, musk and cedar takeover at this stage. These notes provide a collective aura, instead of dominant personalities. The base notes and dry down are too mild to make a big statement.
The performance of Nature Insolente is good enough for the ingredients it contains. It last 4-6 hours on my skin, but most of it as a skin scent. The sillage is fine in the first few hours, again as expected for a citrus fragrance. This will work fine in an office setting, without calling attention to itself.
I recommend Nature Insolente if you are in the market for an inexpensive fresh floral perfume. The three layers of this perfume can evoke three different sets of perfumes. I won’t be surprised if someone says that it overlaps with what they already have. Therefore, testing and comparing is mandatory before you buy a bottle. There are worse ways to spend €50 than on a 50 ml bottle of Nature Insolente.
One of the most realistic leather fragrances in the market - but neither versatile nor wearable
Corpus Equus in Latin means the body of a horse. This perfume is exactly that, but a horse that is laden with a lot of leather accessories like bridle, saddle etc. Corpus Equus contains rose, amber, birch, cedar, incense, leather, musk, patchouli and smoked wood according to their website. “A black composition with animalistic notes, Corpus Equus pays homage to the noble and wild nature of an Arabian stallion, with his fiery temperament”, says their website. It is without question a smoky, animalic leather fragrance. This review is based on a sample from Naomi Goodsir.
Therein lies the problem. Though this fragrance is academically very interesting, I am not interested in smelling like a horse wearing all leather gear. I am sure many enthusiasts will complain about Corpus Equus, using adjectives like fecal, barnyard and skanky. I agree with them, but it is still a very good work of perfumery. Not for me, but for someone else.
I am going through the Naomi Goodsir discovery set one by one. After initial test on paper, this brand feels too extreme for me. Very fascinating, but these may not be wearable for me.
Therein lies the problem. Though this fragrance is academically very interesting, I am not interested in smelling like a horse wearing all leather gear. I am sure many enthusiasts will complain about Corpus Equus, using adjectives like fecal, barnyard and skanky. I agree with them, but it is still a very good work of perfumery. Not for me, but for someone else.
I am going through the Naomi Goodsir discovery set one by one. After initial test on paper, this brand feels too extreme for me. Very fascinating, but these may not be wearable for me.
