Oriane

Oriane

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Oriane 2 years ago 1
7
Bottle
5
Sillage
5
Longevity
10
Scent
Gorgeous Fragrance Deserving of Its Iconic Stature
Poison was launched in 1985, and in 1987, it very deservedly won a FiFi award. The perfumer is M Edouard Fléchier. Poison is classified as an amber floral fragrance. This review is for the current eau de toilette.

Poison is a very beautiful fragrance, but the current formulation does not equal the powerhouse that the original was said to be. The notes I most detect are plum, incense, white florals, and spices. On my skin, projection is about arm's length. Sillage and longevity are both moderate. I wish it was still the powerhouse it once was, but that is not to say that the current formulation is not worth owning. It has undoubtedly been reformulated well beyond what original wearers remember it as being, but it is still very beautiful and enjoyable. I purchased my bottle from one of the grey market sellers, so it is probably 3-4 years old already. I have not checked the batch code on it because it would not change the way I perceive the fragrance. Perhaps if I purchased it fresher at Neiman's or a similar retailer, it would have a bit better performance. Although it is classified as an amber floral fragrance, I think it could easily be deemed a rich Oriental, which is my favourite category of perfumes. B&BW make what I consider a pretty reasonable dupe for Poison called Dark Kiss. I love Dark Kiss, too. If you would like a much more affordable dupe for Poison, try Dark Kiss. I think you will be favourably impressed. B&BW also make Dark Kiss in shower gel, body lotion, and body creme. All are absolutely wonderful for the price point, but if you can afford Poison, I certainly think it is full bottle worthy.

In my opinion, Poison is quite feminine. I would not recommend it to men ever. I think it lends itself more to nighttime wear, but it could also be used at the office with a light hand. At times it seems to border on gourmand territory with its plummy, spicy sweetness, but it never really crosses that line on me. The beautiful florals keep it grounded. I find it very womanly and elegant. It is the type of fragrance that makes everyone want to lean in and inhale deeply. It is just lovely. I can imagine Poison on raven haired sirens such as Elizabeth Taylor whose own fragrance, Passion, seems an unmistakeable dupe for Poison. I could also envision sultry Sophia Loren and enchanting, embraceable Essie Davis wearing Poison. Poison has that dark, deep, plummy, spicy voluptuousness that seems so apropos to raven haired beauties with smouldering, smoky eyes and soft, moist lips that men long to kiss. This is the image Poison brings to my mind.

I understand why Poison has been a best seller for Dior lo these many years, and I expect it will continue to be so for decades to come. I hope Dior never discontinue it. It is simply divine. If you love rich, decadent Orientals, if you love near gourmand and some gourmand fragrances, I think you will love Poison. There is nothing else quite like it in my collection, and I never want to be without a bottle. Very highly recommended. Wear it and feel like the sexy, dramatic, dark beauty it conjures in one's imagination.

Fragrance: 10/10
Sillage: 5/10
Projection: 5/10
Longevity: 5/10
Presentation: 7/10
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Oriane 2 years ago 4
8
Bottle
7
Sillage
6
Longevity
8
Scent
Sophisticated, Sumptuous, Wearable Chypre Floral Fragrance for Mature, Elegant Women (and Men!)
Top Notes: Carnation, Coriander, Rose, Angelica, Neroli, Bergamot, Amalfi Lemon

Heart Notes: Patchouli, Hyacinth, Jasmine, Ylang-Ylang, Mimosa

Base Notes: Oakmoss, Civetta, Castoreum, Vetiver, Sandalwood, Musk, Amber, Honey

Paloma is classified as a Chypre Floral fragrance. It was launched in 1984, and in my opinion is well deserving of its reputation as a vintage classic. The perfumer is Francis Bocris.

Chypres generally do not work well for me. I can wear some of them, but many of them prove to be too challenging, too strong, too overpowering. For example, I can wear Ungaro Diva, but I cannot tolerate Estee Lauder Knowing. I read many, many reviews of Paloma before I finally purchased it because I feared it may turn out to be a lot like Knowing and thus be intolerable. However, now that I have tried it, I am both relieved and happy to say I have no problems with Paloma.

Paloma is unmistakably a chypre perfume with a fair bit of oakmoss in the base that rises up through to the top notes and remains throughout the full wearing, but I do not find the fragrance overpowering at all. It is a very mature and sophisticated fragrance. I cannot imagine anyone under 30 wearing this well.

Re the notes, I definitely detect strong oakmoss and smoky vetiver. Both oakmoss and vetiver are challenging notes for me, but here the oakmoss is tame, and the vetiver is the kind I can enjoy. Here both the oakmoss and the vetiver are handled quite beautifully, quite deftly by M. Francis Bocris. None of the floral notes really stand out to my nose. I simply detect a very gentle floral bouquet strongly supported by a rich oakmoss and a smoky vetiver. I love civet and castoreum, as well as musk done well, but I cannot detect any of them very strongly here either. Once again, the animalics are handled quite well. Paloma is a very well blended fragrance where none of the notes really stand out to my nose aside from the oakmoss and the vetiver. I really like this fragrance! I do not think it is one I would wear frequently, but I very much like it. I wish I had mustered the nerve to purchase a bottle years ago. I can see why so many fragrance lovers love this one.

I cannot add more than what the many other reviewers have written about this fragrance before me. It is a lovely, wearable chypre. I think it is unisex and best suited to evening wear. I would never wear this to an office, a wedding, a christening, a church service, etc. This is strictly an evening fragrance best worn in Autumn and Winter and probably for more formal events. There is definitely something formal and sexy about it insofar as perfumes can be said to be "sexy." This is not at all a casual fragrance in my opinion. Paloma would pair well with an elegant gown, upswept hair, elegant jewels, and (for me faux) fur. It is sumptuous, luxurious, and not for the faint of heart. Performance is very good. This is a stunning, sophisticated fragrance for the price point.

I am very glad indeed that I added Paloma to my collection. If you love chypres and have not tried Paloma, I highly recommend you try it. If you are not a great lover of chypres but can wear some of them, then again I highly recommend Paloma because I think this chypre has a great chance of winning your heart as it has won my own.

Fragrance: 8/10
Sillage: 8/10
Projection: 7/10
Longevity: 5/10

ETA: My bottles (Already purchased a back up!) are not the most recent formulation, believe is through Elizabeth Arden, or the oldest formulation insofar as I am aware, but they are vintage, and the perfume is divine. My advice is not to pay a hefty price for a super old bottle. The more recent vintages are absolutely stunning and very affordable!! My bottles have the clear glass in the middle with the black plastic case surrounding it, so no worries about plastic chemicals leaching into the fragrance. It is not the most expensive looking bottle, but who cares if the fragrance is this gorgeous?! I think the packaging is attractive anyway, though.

So, save your money. You positively do not need one of the earliest bottles because the more recent vintage is absolutely wonderful. Sillage and projection are good. Longevity is about average at 5-6 hours which holds for my more expensive Chanel Exclusifs as well.
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Oriane 2 years ago 2
7
Bottle
6
Sillage
6
Longevity
0.5
Scent
Fatally Synthetic Amber Floral Fragrance
Top Notes: Red Rose, Peach, Almond Wood, Lilac, Lily

Heart Notes: Rose, Spices, Heliotrope, Ylang-Ylang, Orchid, Jasmine, Lily-of-the-Valley

Base Notes: Vanilla, Sandalwood, Amber, Benzoin, Musk, Cedar

This review is for the eau de toilette, but the fragrance also comes in an extrait formulation.

I have always been an admirer of the legendary Elizabeth Taylor not only for her skill as a screen actress but for her zest for life as well as her determination in the face of tragedy and her willingness to stand in opposition to prejudice and hatred. It was this willingness to stand up for that in which Elizabeth believed most fervently that sparked the creation of her eponymous fragrance line in 1988 after the sad passing of her dear friend and co-star in the film "Giant" Rock Hudson died in 1985 from AIDS.

These were the early days of AIDS, and the disease was highly stigmatised as a "homosexual disease." AIDS devastated the gay community population, and both gay and straight people were terrified of contracting AIDS. There were very few drugs available to combat AIDS in the beginning, and the drugs that were available were so expensive as to be out of reach of almost all sufferers. Thus, a diagnosis of AIDS was tantamount to a death sentence. Elizabeth was determined to do something about this tragic situation.

Elizabeth's first fragrance was "Passion," and it launched in 1988. Other fragrances soon followed, and by 1993, Diamonds and Rubies launched. The nose behind this fragrance is the well known Sophia Grosjman. Diamonds and Rubies is characterised as an amber floral fragrance. It as well as several others were named for Elizabeth's well known love for precious jewels.

At this moment in time I cannot speak to the original formulation. This review is for the current formulation which I have owned for a few years now and have worn only twice. The notes seemed right up my alley, but sadly, this fragrance in its current iteration is a hot synthetic mess. I doubt there are any natural oils whatsoever in this fragrance. The fragrance is vaguely floral, vaguely amberish, lightly spicy, and fatally, completely synthetic, so I deem it expensive given the quality. Projection, sillage, and longevity are quite good for an eau de toilette, unfortunately so in this case. I cannot recommend it at all, but if the listed notes do interest you, then by all means try it. It can be found for quite reasonable prices on many sites and in some stores, and you may enjoy it even if I do not. The packaging for all of Elizabeth's fragrances is quite attractive for the price point, so a bottle will at least look lovely on your vanity even if the fragrance is not to your liking, and I believe sales of her fragrances still go to support AIDS research.

I imagine the original formulation of Diamonds and Rubies was quite nice as all of Elizabeth's fragrances were sold in nice department stores alongside the likes of Estee Lauder, Clinque, Dior, Guerlain, Chanel, Lancome, etc., and I believe she herself was quite happy to wear the original formulations herself, although I doubt she would approve of current formulations. I have ordered a bottle of what I believe is an early formulation of the fragrance which I hope will be much nicer than the current formulation I have in my collection at present. Once I am able to test it, I will update this review.

Elizabeth Taylor left the world an impressive legacy both in the world of film as well as in her support for AIDS research with the launching of at least twenty fragrances that I know of which bear her name. Fewer people die of AIDS today than in the 1980s and 1990s, and the disease is far less stigmatised now. I attribute these facts at least in large part to Elizabeth's lending her voice, her image, and her name to a fragrance line that was created solely in support of AIDS research and education. Elizabeth's perfumes were so successful that they spawned the now widespread celebrity named fragrance craze for good or for ill depending on your viewpoint. Whether you like her fragrances or not, you cannot help but admire her spirit in creating them.

ETA 18 February 22: I have now worn a vintage formulation, and it is much better than the current formulation. It is rounder, a bit more plush with a bit more depth. I do not love it, but I definitely like it and will wear it. I do not think ET fragrances have aged very well (see my review of Passion), but the original formulations are heads and shoulders above the current uber low quality synthetic formulations which would not make good room sprays even much less perfumes. I could imagine ET wearing the original formulations, but I think she would be horrified by what is being sold today with her name on them.
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Oriane 3 years ago 1
4
Bottle
3
Sillage
3
Longevity
2
Scent
Tinned Fruit Cocktail
I am still working at using up the many samples I have acquired over a relatively long time now. Tonight, I decided to wear whatever my hand grasped as I reached into one of my large bags of samples. It turned out to be this fragrance. I must admit I have always been repulsed by the name, but that part aside, I checked the notes, and they did not sound that bad. I happen to love white florals, and I very much like caramel and praline done well.

I took a deep breath and sprayed several times. My first thought was "I recognise this scent!! I have smelt this lingering in the air in shops at the mall many times!" My second thought was, and I apologise to all lovers of this fragrance, but my second thought was "this smells so cheap and disgusting!"

I cannot really detect any of the notes save the fruity ones. This does not smell very floral to me. It mainly smells fruity in a tinned fruit cocktail sort of way. Hopefully, the caramel and praline will eventually surface and make this at least a mildly rewarding experience.

To everyone who loves this fragrance, and I am sure there are many, I am sorry I cannot say something more positive about it. It is not a fragrance for me, and I cannot recommend it. I have many B&BW fragrances that put this to shame. Again, I am sorry, but we cannot all like the same things. If you like the listed notes, then I would not discourage you from testing it, but be forewarned that it is not a very sophisticated fragrance.

Fragrance: 1/10
Sillage: 8/10 (is not that always the way?)
Projection: 8/10 (ditto)
Longevity: 5/10 (mercifully)
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Oriane 3 years ago 3
Not my Cuppa....
Top Notes: Sea Notes, Fern, Mandarin Orange, Clary Sage

Heart Notes: White Tea, White Iris, Mate

Base Notes: Ambrette. (Musk Mallow), Exotic Woods, Tonka Bean, Amber

Continuing on my quest to use up some of the samples I have accumulated, I wore Elizabeth Arden White Tea today. This fragrance reminds me of an old fragrance by Avon named Imperial Garden which also had a fairly prominent Mate note. If you know and like Imperial Garden, then you will probably recognise it as a distant cousin of White Tea. Imperial Garden is much stronger than White Tea, though.

I definitely detect the tea note and the fern note here. The other notes are a bit mixed up to my nose. It is a fairly fresh fragrance thanks to the top notes. I expected the deep dry down to be quite warm given the listed notes, but it is not especially warm or even sweet. This fragrance is fairly dry despite the Sea Notes, and it has more of an air freshener vibe to me than it does a perfume vibe.

White Tea is not very remarkable to me. It is inoffensive and fairly clean smelling. I think both women and men could wear it as easily as one another. Performance is not particularly good. It wears pretty close to skin after the first 15-20 minutes. It would probably work best in Spring and Summer. White Tea is not for me, but it may be for you. If you like these notes, then at least try a sample to see what you think. It is not bad, but it is not my cuppa tea so to speak.

Fragrance: 3/10
Projection: 3/10
Sillage: 3/10
Longevity: 3/10
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