ScentGrail
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ScentGrail
Clean, Sophisticated, And Invigorating
SMW is a strange boy, that’s for sure. One thing that deviates from the norm is the lack of ambroxan/ambergris notes found in many other Creed releases. It is a musky fragrance enriched with fruity and tea notes, which means it won’t be for everyone, which is a good thing. I’ll also add that even if this is a masterpiece release, when we consider everything, it is still not my favourite from the brand.
TOP NOTES
The opening of SMW will be a hit or miss for most people. It is somewhat strange and pleasant at the same time, but the quality of the blend cannot be disputed. The first spritz on my skin reveals this weird combination of metallic, musky fruits and citruses. It’s a refreshing, kind of soapy, and energetic combination of blackcurrant, bergamot, and mild orange, infused with muskiness immediately.
HEART NOTES
Heart notes quickly kick in after the exciting opening. For me, this is where the real magic happens as we are introduced to green tea and ozonic accord. The ozonic accord is the only aspect of this composition that will remind you of the 1990s when many ozonic and aquatic scents were available on the market. At this stage of development, I still get that ambiguity, a metallic touch of blackcurrant, and a delightful and realistic green tea accord.
BASE NOTES
You have a clean, musky, slightly woody, and calming scent when everything settles down. There are still slight aspects from the opening and the middle notes here, but don’t expect them to be solid or bold anymore. It’s not an overbearing fragrance, and certainly not something you’ll have to pick a particular occasion to wear. It speaks of the early spring days when everything starts to blossom; in the end, it is not that complicated.
OVERALL
SMW is not a perfect fragrance; it also stands for every other perfume that has been released. I was thinking about whether it deserves a holy grail status for quite some time, and in the end, I decided that it just wouldn’t be fair not to place it here. As a composition that has stood the test of time and went into the perfume hall of fame with millions of users who swear by its quality, I conclude this review with its deserved ranking.
Read the full review at scentgrail.com
TOP NOTES
The opening of SMW will be a hit or miss for most people. It is somewhat strange and pleasant at the same time, but the quality of the blend cannot be disputed. The first spritz on my skin reveals this weird combination of metallic, musky fruits and citruses. It’s a refreshing, kind of soapy, and energetic combination of blackcurrant, bergamot, and mild orange, infused with muskiness immediately.
HEART NOTES
Heart notes quickly kick in after the exciting opening. For me, this is where the real magic happens as we are introduced to green tea and ozonic accord. The ozonic accord is the only aspect of this composition that will remind you of the 1990s when many ozonic and aquatic scents were available on the market. At this stage of development, I still get that ambiguity, a metallic touch of blackcurrant, and a delightful and realistic green tea accord.
BASE NOTES
You have a clean, musky, slightly woody, and calming scent when everything settles down. There are still slight aspects from the opening and the middle notes here, but don’t expect them to be solid or bold anymore. It’s not an overbearing fragrance, and certainly not something you’ll have to pick a particular occasion to wear. It speaks of the early spring days when everything starts to blossom; in the end, it is not that complicated.
OVERALL
SMW is not a perfect fragrance; it also stands for every other perfume that has been released. I was thinking about whether it deserves a holy grail status for quite some time, and in the end, I decided that it just wouldn’t be fair not to place it here. As a composition that has stood the test of time and went into the perfume hall of fame with millions of users who swear by its quality, I conclude this review with its deserved ranking.
Read the full review at scentgrail.com
A Touch Of Spice
Where to start, and to sound objective. The main issues I see here are the price and the perfume oil quality. This is wearable, enjoyable, and has its fans. For a brand often coined as the first niche house in the world, we have to set our expectations higher than usual. Half-baked work means mediocre results, and there is no other way to say it here. I don’t care who the perfumer is or whose house fragrance comes from when I evaluate fragrances. My small 30ml bottle will stay with me until I finish it, and the chance of me ever repurchasing it is zero.
TOP NOTES
The fragrance opens up with a unique accord that has been described in various ways. Some have described the fragrance as smelling like stewed fruits in liqueur, while others compare it to the scent of Cherry Cola. I would ignore the note listing and try not to search for every little piece inside since it is not as complex as the ingredients suggest. The top notes have a fizzy, spicy effervescence dominated by makeup-smelling aldehydes, cinnamon, and cold-pressed cardamom.
HEART NOTES
At its heart, the fragrance embarks on a continued olfactory journey marked by a dynamic interplay of notes, contributing complexity and depth to the overall olfactory experience. The initial spiciness and aldehydes harmonize with a fusion of churchy incense and white musk. These carefully selected notes and accords define the fragrance’s distinctive sweet, spicy oriental warmth, particularly suitable for colder seasons. The pinnacle of this scent unfolds in the dry-down, showcasing Duchaufour’s skillful blending.
BASE NOTES
Based on the provided notes, the dry-down is not underwhelming but safe. I would have appreciated a more detectable animalistic aspect to elevate the fragrance beyond its current presentation. The sweet, incense, aldehydic journey concludes with a fusion of vanilla and semi-sweet tonka beans. Considering the mention of a leather accord in the heart and base notes, one would expect a more pronounced leather presence. The fragrance exudes a slight air of mystery but remains tame, catering to those who prefer not to wear edgy niche perfumes.
OVERALL
The fragrance is durable without overpowering, and the bottle design is visually impressive, featuring an unusual aldehyde note rarely seen in oriental perfumes. Questionable value for money raises considerations for potential buyers, and the unequivocal statement that I won’t repurchase it after the bottle is finished encapsulates my overall sentiment.
Read the full review at scentgrail.com
TOP NOTES
The fragrance opens up with a unique accord that has been described in various ways. Some have described the fragrance as smelling like stewed fruits in liqueur, while others compare it to the scent of Cherry Cola. I would ignore the note listing and try not to search for every little piece inside since it is not as complex as the ingredients suggest. The top notes have a fizzy, spicy effervescence dominated by makeup-smelling aldehydes, cinnamon, and cold-pressed cardamom.
HEART NOTES
At its heart, the fragrance embarks on a continued olfactory journey marked by a dynamic interplay of notes, contributing complexity and depth to the overall olfactory experience. The initial spiciness and aldehydes harmonize with a fusion of churchy incense and white musk. These carefully selected notes and accords define the fragrance’s distinctive sweet, spicy oriental warmth, particularly suitable for colder seasons. The pinnacle of this scent unfolds in the dry-down, showcasing Duchaufour’s skillful blending.
BASE NOTES
Based on the provided notes, the dry-down is not underwhelming but safe. I would have appreciated a more detectable animalistic aspect to elevate the fragrance beyond its current presentation. The sweet, incense, aldehydic journey concludes with a fusion of vanilla and semi-sweet tonka beans. Considering the mention of a leather accord in the heart and base notes, one would expect a more pronounced leather presence. The fragrance exudes a slight air of mystery but remains tame, catering to those who prefer not to wear edgy niche perfumes.
OVERALL
The fragrance is durable without overpowering, and the bottle design is visually impressive, featuring an unusual aldehyde note rarely seen in oriental perfumes. Questionable value for money raises considerations for potential buyers, and the unequivocal statement that I won’t repurchase it after the bottle is finished encapsulates my overall sentiment.
Read the full review at scentgrail.com
Nothing to brag about...
Oh, boy. It’s been a while since I felt this disappointed. This fragrance is by one of my all-time favorite perfumers, and it’s turned out to be a complete letdown. It could be because of my high standards, a natural development after spending so long in the fragrance game, but something seriously went wrong with this creation. I understand that the incense used in Japanese culture differs from that in Oman (particularly in Amouage perfumes), but I’m 100% sure it doesn’t smell as bland as this.
TOP NOTES
Kyoto smells dry, meditative, and serene in the whole spectrum of things. It opens up with the green and fragrant scent of cypress. What I also get immediately from the start is this churchy incense, which I have smelled a thousand times before. Not terrible, but truthfully, nothing that would have made me say, “Wow, this is spectacular.” The best words to describe it would be just above designer level or, better said, bland.
HEART NOTES
Here, incense continues to play the leading role but is grounded with cedarwood and dry vetiver, which begins to show its face even before the scent reaches its dry down. The notes are well-blended, and to be fair, it does not smell like a cheap and random product. I expected a more exciting development, quickly transitioning into the linear dry down.
BASE NOTES
As the scent transitions into its base notes, a blend of incense and woods remains. It’s alright; it can be pretty enjoyable, especially during the fall and winter, when this fragrance finds a fitting ambiance. However, I haven’t detected any patchouli or amber elements that could have enhanced its complexity and made it more interesting.
OVERALL
Kyoto was one of those fragrances I didn’t struggle to decipher, unlike more multi-dimensional and expensive-smelling counterparts. It is what it is—a simple, calming scent that is highly unlikely to leave you in awe. It’s suitable for beginners who are just embarking on their fragrance journey.
Read the full review at scentgrail.com
TOP NOTES
Kyoto smells dry, meditative, and serene in the whole spectrum of things. It opens up with the green and fragrant scent of cypress. What I also get immediately from the start is this churchy incense, which I have smelled a thousand times before. Not terrible, but truthfully, nothing that would have made me say, “Wow, this is spectacular.” The best words to describe it would be just above designer level or, better said, bland.
HEART NOTES
Here, incense continues to play the leading role but is grounded with cedarwood and dry vetiver, which begins to show its face even before the scent reaches its dry down. The notes are well-blended, and to be fair, it does not smell like a cheap and random product. I expected a more exciting development, quickly transitioning into the linear dry down.
BASE NOTES
As the scent transitions into its base notes, a blend of incense and woods remains. It’s alright; it can be pretty enjoyable, especially during the fall and winter, when this fragrance finds a fitting ambiance. However, I haven’t detected any patchouli or amber elements that could have enhanced its complexity and made it more interesting.
OVERALL
Kyoto was one of those fragrances I didn’t struggle to decipher, unlike more multi-dimensional and expensive-smelling counterparts. It is what it is—a simple, calming scent that is highly unlikely to leave you in awe. It’s suitable for beginners who are just embarking on their fragrance journey.
Read the full review at scentgrail.com
Underrated Masterpiece
Depending on my mood, this fragrance often takes the lead among my Amouage favorites, alongside Reflection Man and Imitation Man. Though not typically described as a young man’s scent, it surprisingly works for me, evoking memories of my younger, more innocent days when I relished the scent of my dad’s favorite shaving foam. Official notes won’t reveal this nostalgic aroma, and it took me a while to pinpoint it. My best guess is the combination of the iris (orris root) and an unmentioned lavender note.
TOP NOTES
What I get is this wonderful combination of zesty but not bitter orange, combined with the most realistic peony flower.
Both modern and traditional which is hard to accomplish. I do not detect the leathery labdanum throughout the composition along with cardamom which are probably here as supporting notes.
HEART NOTES
The elegant dance of fragrant notes continues into the middle stage, introducing lavender and iris. Orris, derived from the iris root, adds a powdery, and slightly soapy barbershop elegance that enhances the fragrance’s depth. While plum is often touted as a dominant note, in my case, it’s almost non-detectable. Living in a region abundant with plums, I can confidently say not to expect much plum presence.
BASE NOTES
In the drydown, Omani frankincense stands out like no other — the best in the world, with nothing else even coming close. How the perfumer made it elegant and just right without being overpowering is a feat in itself. Vetiver, another key player in the base, contributes a smooth and woody character, grounding the fragrance with depth, accompanied by the subtlest rose I’ve encountered. Dia was designed to be an entire experience, not just a scent where you detect a couple of prominent notes and call it a day.
OVERALL
A fragrance exuding nuanced sophistication, Dia stands as an underrated gem seldom discussed in contemporary fragrance discourse. In my perspective, Dia not only stands out but also offers commendable value within its mostly unique scent DNA. Considered a masterpiece by my standards, Dia remains a scent that warrants sampling before a full commitment, despite being a staple in my collection and aligning with my personal preferences and priorities.
Read the full review at scentgrail.com
TOP NOTES
What I get is this wonderful combination of zesty but not bitter orange, combined with the most realistic peony flower.
Both modern and traditional which is hard to accomplish. I do not detect the leathery labdanum throughout the composition along with cardamom which are probably here as supporting notes.
HEART NOTES
The elegant dance of fragrant notes continues into the middle stage, introducing lavender and iris. Orris, derived from the iris root, adds a powdery, and slightly soapy barbershop elegance that enhances the fragrance’s depth. While plum is often touted as a dominant note, in my case, it’s almost non-detectable. Living in a region abundant with plums, I can confidently say not to expect much plum presence.
BASE NOTES
In the drydown, Omani frankincense stands out like no other — the best in the world, with nothing else even coming close. How the perfumer made it elegant and just right without being overpowering is a feat in itself. Vetiver, another key player in the base, contributes a smooth and woody character, grounding the fragrance with depth, accompanied by the subtlest rose I’ve encountered. Dia was designed to be an entire experience, not just a scent where you detect a couple of prominent notes and call it a day.
OVERALL
A fragrance exuding nuanced sophistication, Dia stands as an underrated gem seldom discussed in contemporary fragrance discourse. In my perspective, Dia not only stands out but also offers commendable value within its mostly unique scent DNA. Considered a masterpiece by my standards, Dia remains a scent that warrants sampling before a full commitment, despite being a staple in my collection and aligning with my personal preferences and priorities.
Read the full review at scentgrail.com
Familiar alternative
DesirToxic is a good deal when considering it’s a blend of Opium Pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent, A*Men Pure Havane from Mugler, and with hints of PDM Layton. I actually prefer this one more than those two because it amalgamates the best aspects of both, but lacks something more that would elevate it to another level.
TOP NOTES
The opening is great, smooth, and nostalgic. Achieving this without disrupting the entire composition is a feat of its own.
Whether you’re young or old, new or experienced with perfumes, you’ll probably enjoy it as well. At the forefront, a burst of citrus zest dances on the skin, invigorating the senses with its lively and fresh demeanor. This quickly transitions into a delightful spicy kick, emanating from a state-of-the-art cardamom note that is blended terrifically.
HEART NOTES
Cannabis, the obvious elephant in the room, is non-existent here, so don’t worry that you’ll smell like “weed”.
It’s just a marketing ploy to keep you talking about this perfume. For comparison, this accord is more pronounced in Nasomatto’s Black Afgano. Along with black currant and still detectable cardamom from the opening, cinnamon, and tonka bean join the party, making it more sexy and inviting, which gives it a layer of intrigue, keeping the overall composition dynamic and engaging. With that said, I can also guarantee with certainty that there is also a cherry-like pipe tobacco note inside here that ties it up with Pure Havane, not disclosed in the official note breakdown.
BASE NOTES
At the foundation of the composition lies a rich woody, pipe tobaccoish, and vanillic accord which rarely goes wrong. The vanilla is more of a dusty kind, and the oakmoss is devoid of its bitterness. In the end, it provides a semi-sweet and comforting undertone along with a magnetic musk resonance to finish this symphony with a bang.
CONCLUSION
In this perfume story, there is good and bad as well. Thankfully, the positive sides are strong enough to make it all right in the end. DesirToxic fits into this tale perfectly and invites you for another ride. Is this scent a toxic desire as the name suggests? Probably not. More like a dear friend you haven’t seen for a while that brings back all the great memories you have created through life together. That’s what this is all about.
Read the full review at scentgrail.com
TOP NOTES
The opening is great, smooth, and nostalgic. Achieving this without disrupting the entire composition is a feat of its own.
Whether you’re young or old, new or experienced with perfumes, you’ll probably enjoy it as well. At the forefront, a burst of citrus zest dances on the skin, invigorating the senses with its lively and fresh demeanor. This quickly transitions into a delightful spicy kick, emanating from a state-of-the-art cardamom note that is blended terrifically.
HEART NOTES
Cannabis, the obvious elephant in the room, is non-existent here, so don’t worry that you’ll smell like “weed”.
It’s just a marketing ploy to keep you talking about this perfume. For comparison, this accord is more pronounced in Nasomatto’s Black Afgano. Along with black currant and still detectable cardamom from the opening, cinnamon, and tonka bean join the party, making it more sexy and inviting, which gives it a layer of intrigue, keeping the overall composition dynamic and engaging. With that said, I can also guarantee with certainty that there is also a cherry-like pipe tobacco note inside here that ties it up with Pure Havane, not disclosed in the official note breakdown.
BASE NOTES
At the foundation of the composition lies a rich woody, pipe tobaccoish, and vanillic accord which rarely goes wrong. The vanilla is more of a dusty kind, and the oakmoss is devoid of its bitterness. In the end, it provides a semi-sweet and comforting undertone along with a magnetic musk resonance to finish this symphony with a bang.
CONCLUSION
In this perfume story, there is good and bad as well. Thankfully, the positive sides are strong enough to make it all right in the end. DesirToxic fits into this tale perfectly and invites you for another ride. Is this scent a toxic desire as the name suggests? Probably not. More like a dear friend you haven’t seen for a while that brings back all the great memories you have created through life together. That’s what this is all about.
Read the full review at scentgrail.com
