ScentGrail
Reviews
Filter & sort
ScentGrail
The best black pepper fragrance on the market
If there’s one truly exceptional aspect about Honour Man, it’s undeniably the representation of the pepper accord. I’m not kidding; this must be the best natural-smelling, pepper-forward fragrance I’ve encountered. Crafting this accord is notoriously challenging for perfumers, and this fragrance stands out for its realism, unlike the “illusions” often found in other releases. On one hand, this stands as the best black pepper fragrance of all time, unrivaled and unmatched. On the other hand, its dry-down ventures into familiar territory, avoiding bold risks.
TOP NOTES
Honour opens up with an intensified pepper that is not for the faint of heart. I detect metallic, citric, green, and woody facets that are blended and infused together. This combination of pink and black pepper is quite spectacular, as mentioned in the preceding paragraphs. It’s so natural-smelling that it could potentially make you sneeze, just like the real thing. Dark and fresh, it gradually calms down as time progresses.
HEART NOTES
In the heart notes, the spiciness remains, but resins and greenness start to blossom. This transformation is thanks to the elemi resin, which enhances pine-like balsamic qualities along with a lemony aroma. I’m pleased that the perfumer chose to introduce something like this in the heart notes, preventing the fragrance from becoming dry before the drydown.
BASE NOTES
With a rich base featuring all the listed notes, I expected more. The prized Omani frankincense is present and saves the composition. However, the remainder of the dry down is dominated by a super-dry vetiver alongside a white musk accord. I can’t believe I’m going to say this, but I wish the nutty tonka bean was present, giving it a slight sweetness.
OVERALL
I contend that the dry down could have benefited from an additional boost, perhaps through the inclusion of amber or a more pronounced tonka bean. Despite its glorious representation of black and pink pepper, it’s worth noting that the fragrance stays remarkably close to the authentic black pepper aroma, a characteristic that may not resonate with everyone. A missed opportunity for me, unfortunately.
Read the full review at scentgrail.com
TOP NOTES
Honour opens up with an intensified pepper that is not for the faint of heart. I detect metallic, citric, green, and woody facets that are blended and infused together. This combination of pink and black pepper is quite spectacular, as mentioned in the preceding paragraphs. It’s so natural-smelling that it could potentially make you sneeze, just like the real thing. Dark and fresh, it gradually calms down as time progresses.
HEART NOTES
In the heart notes, the spiciness remains, but resins and greenness start to blossom. This transformation is thanks to the elemi resin, which enhances pine-like balsamic qualities along with a lemony aroma. I’m pleased that the perfumer chose to introduce something like this in the heart notes, preventing the fragrance from becoming dry before the drydown.
BASE NOTES
With a rich base featuring all the listed notes, I expected more. The prized Omani frankincense is present and saves the composition. However, the remainder of the dry down is dominated by a super-dry vetiver alongside a white musk accord. I can’t believe I’m going to say this, but I wish the nutty tonka bean was present, giving it a slight sweetness.
OVERALL
I contend that the dry down could have benefited from an additional boost, perhaps through the inclusion of amber or a more pronounced tonka bean. Despite its glorious representation of black and pink pepper, it’s worth noting that the fragrance stays remarkably close to the authentic black pepper aroma, a characteristic that may not resonate with everyone. A missed opportunity for me, unfortunately.
Read the full review at scentgrail.com
Summertime Greatness
I simply love it and find it amusing how Demachy left something like this as his last creation at Dior. It’s like Demachy’s final ‘I told you so,’ a great perfumer often criticized for creating unnecessary flankers. Do not dismiss it just because it’s ‘another Dior Homme 2020,’ and ignore the ridiculous comments I’ve seen about ‘there is no iris anymore.’ This is the new era of Dior, where they continue to reign supreme in the perfume world—a feat Chanel lost many years ago in their masculine perfume selection.
TOP NOTES
The opening is much more deceptive than one might expect just by looking at the listed notes. The key players here are not the bergamot or lemon commonly found in other DHS flankers, but the aldehydes. Seasoned noses will understand what I mean when they actually smell it. Instead of providing us with a zesty and tart bergamot/lemon aroma, the aldehydes do what they are most famous for: unmistakably, providing us with the fantastic orange accord. The juicy pulp of ripe oranges is presented here in its most glorious form, unlike anything I have ever seen in for example, Hermes releases.
HEART NOTES
Both elemi and pink pepper actually give off the aroma of citruses rather than typical resins and spices, so it’s no wonder that these combined round up the orange note from the opening. With just the right amount of sweetness that can be detected from time to time, the middle stage progression is where DHS 2021 slowly introduces you to the darker dry down. Transparent yet deep, with oriental touches executed in a fresh way. By this time, it becomes evident that DHS 2021 is no longer a playful fragrance often associated with its previous editions.
BASE NOTES
So, the base. Is it any good? Well, of course, it is. There’s the transparent incense, which I don’t know how Demachy achieved to smell like this. There’s the sandalwood, serving as a connection to DHS 2017, and Iso E Super from Dior Homme 2020. Is there amber here? Probably not, since I have never smelled it, or it could just be in small doses. Anyway, the element that provides that darker touch is the frankincense. Olibanum can have a spicy kick, but not the same as pepper or cinnamon, rather a balsamic olfactive odor profile. To conclude the note breakdown, what you get is pretty much evident from the start: a clean and refreshing fragrance with a dark side in the base notes.
OVERALL
I must express that releases like DHS 2021 are a rarity, a sheer joy to uncover.From its fantastic use of aldehydes to the harmonious fusion of citrus, woods, and zesty spices, this fragrance embodies a modern interpretation of elegance. It stands as an enhancement over Dior Homme 2020 in every aspect, serving as the finishing touch that was missing in the previous release and making it a masterpiece.
Read the full review at scentgrail.com
TOP NOTES
The opening is much more deceptive than one might expect just by looking at the listed notes. The key players here are not the bergamot or lemon commonly found in other DHS flankers, but the aldehydes. Seasoned noses will understand what I mean when they actually smell it. Instead of providing us with a zesty and tart bergamot/lemon aroma, the aldehydes do what they are most famous for: unmistakably, providing us with the fantastic orange accord. The juicy pulp of ripe oranges is presented here in its most glorious form, unlike anything I have ever seen in for example, Hermes releases.
HEART NOTES
Both elemi and pink pepper actually give off the aroma of citruses rather than typical resins and spices, so it’s no wonder that these combined round up the orange note from the opening. With just the right amount of sweetness that can be detected from time to time, the middle stage progression is where DHS 2021 slowly introduces you to the darker dry down. Transparent yet deep, with oriental touches executed in a fresh way. By this time, it becomes evident that DHS 2021 is no longer a playful fragrance often associated with its previous editions.
BASE NOTES
So, the base. Is it any good? Well, of course, it is. There’s the transparent incense, which I don’t know how Demachy achieved to smell like this. There’s the sandalwood, serving as a connection to DHS 2017, and Iso E Super from Dior Homme 2020. Is there amber here? Probably not, since I have never smelled it, or it could just be in small doses. Anyway, the element that provides that darker touch is the frankincense. Olibanum can have a spicy kick, but not the same as pepper or cinnamon, rather a balsamic olfactive odor profile. To conclude the note breakdown, what you get is pretty much evident from the start: a clean and refreshing fragrance with a dark side in the base notes.
OVERALL
I must express that releases like DHS 2021 are a rarity, a sheer joy to uncover.From its fantastic use of aldehydes to the harmonious fusion of citrus, woods, and zesty spices, this fragrance embodies a modern interpretation of elegance. It stands as an enhancement over Dior Homme 2020 in every aspect, serving as the finishing touch that was missing in the previous release and making it a masterpiece.
Read the full review at scentgrail.com
A Whiff Of Sophistication
If there were a single perfect word to describe GIT, it would be ‘masterpiece.’ This fragrance has set future trends that remain visible today. Despite the emergence of numerous imitations, GIT maintains its unique character, appealing to fragrance enthusiasts, connoisseurs, and perfume consumers worldwide. As a classic in the perfume world, it continues to leave an indelible mark, reminding us of the artistic beauty that can be captured within a single scent.
TOP NOTES
What I experience in the opening is essentially the same as what I encountered eight years ago when I owned the old-style 120ml bottle: a fresh blend of herbs and citruses. Primarily, the lemon verbena effect stands out alongside a clean representation of ozonic violet. Nothing more, and nothing less, except for the clear presence of ambergris, noticeable from start to finish. Yes, there’s also a subdued aquatic vibe, which is short-lived and fades away in the heart notes.
HEART NOTES
As the heart notes begin to unfold, the zestiness from the opening starts to dissipate, and we are welcomed by a magnificent introduction of aromatic, natural-smelling lavender, and powdery iris. To my nose, this reveals a more intricate and nuanced olfactory experience, building upon the fresh and invigorating top notes. The perfectly executed blend of floral and woody elements adds additional depth and character to the scent profile and is a joy to experience for anyone who loves to smell like a true representation of nature.
BASE NOTES
The dry down is where the fragrance is at its best if you ask me. Most of the aforementioned notes are still slightly detectable and sit beneath the salty and musky ambergris, woods, and oakmoss. This oakmoss is actually a modern representation of the same note found in the perfumes from the ’70s and the ’80s, which means it doesn’t smell dated at all. These deeper, more sensual, and comforting aromas round up the experience in the classic brand fashion we are all probably familiar with.
OVERALL
Comparing GIT to Davidoff’s Cool Water is understandable, as most fragrance enthusiasts started with the latter rather than an expensive niche perfume. I first owned a bottle of GIT in 2014 or 2015, marking my introduction to this niche house. Despite my love for Aventus, Millésime Impérial, Royal Oud, and Erolfa, GIT holds a special place as my first love in the fragrance world. For these reasons, it receives my highest recommendation as a must-have fragrance in your collection.
Read the full review at scentgrail.com
TOP NOTES
What I experience in the opening is essentially the same as what I encountered eight years ago when I owned the old-style 120ml bottle: a fresh blend of herbs and citruses. Primarily, the lemon verbena effect stands out alongside a clean representation of ozonic violet. Nothing more, and nothing less, except for the clear presence of ambergris, noticeable from start to finish. Yes, there’s also a subdued aquatic vibe, which is short-lived and fades away in the heart notes.
HEART NOTES
As the heart notes begin to unfold, the zestiness from the opening starts to dissipate, and we are welcomed by a magnificent introduction of aromatic, natural-smelling lavender, and powdery iris. To my nose, this reveals a more intricate and nuanced olfactory experience, building upon the fresh and invigorating top notes. The perfectly executed blend of floral and woody elements adds additional depth and character to the scent profile and is a joy to experience for anyone who loves to smell like a true representation of nature.
BASE NOTES
The dry down is where the fragrance is at its best if you ask me. Most of the aforementioned notes are still slightly detectable and sit beneath the salty and musky ambergris, woods, and oakmoss. This oakmoss is actually a modern representation of the same note found in the perfumes from the ’70s and the ’80s, which means it doesn’t smell dated at all. These deeper, more sensual, and comforting aromas round up the experience in the classic brand fashion we are all probably familiar with.
OVERALL
Comparing GIT to Davidoff’s Cool Water is understandable, as most fragrance enthusiasts started with the latter rather than an expensive niche perfume. I first owned a bottle of GIT in 2014 or 2015, marking my introduction to this niche house. Despite my love for Aventus, Millésime Impérial, Royal Oud, and Erolfa, GIT holds a special place as my first love in the fragrance world. For these reasons, it receives my highest recommendation as a must-have fragrance in your collection.
Read the full review at scentgrail.com
Stellar And Inspiring
In my opinion, Ganymede is the last truly unique, high-quality, yet wearable niche-smelling fragrance that is steadily gaining its deserved hype in the fragrance community. While still not as popular as, for example, Baccarat Rouge 540, in my opinion, there hasn’t been anything as impactful as this since 2019.
TOP NOTES
Upon the first sniff, one thing that might strike you as peculiar is that this fragrance incorporates three natural ingredients: mandarin, osmanthus, and immortelle. Despite this, the overall impression of this blend, though high in quality, leans towards a smooth synthetic composition that, nevertheless, cannot be ignored. Associations with scents akin to a dentist’s office and the aroma of a fresh pack of tennis balls persist, echoing sentiments expressed by many fragrance enthusiasts before. This fragrance is both transparent and deep at its core, making it suitable for year-round wear as a potential signature scent.
HEART NOTES
In the heart notes, both mandarin and saffron persist but are enhanced by the strong aroma of immortelle, akin to the one found in 1740 Marquis de Sade from Histoires de Parfums. While not as bitter as in that fragrance, it remains noticeably pleasant. The mineral essence prominent in the opening now takes the lead in the composition but never ventures into the aquatic territory, a characteristic likely to garner applause from enthusiasts.
BASE NOTES
It takes a considerable amount of time before you begin to notice the base notes in Ganymede.
Specifically, I’m referring to the leather jacket-like suede leather and the spicy akigalawood (a perfume note fractionated from patchouli oil, emitting a scent reminiscent of spicy woods). How Quentin Bisch managed to create something predominantly comprising heavier notes yet smelling both robust and transparent is beyond me, but it undeniably works. It functions so exquisitely that all the officially listed notes are discernible in varying degrees from the initial application until the fragrance becomes imperceptible.
OVERALL
In conclusion, this release stands as a beacon of creativity and innovation in the world of fragrances. I’m not easily impressed by new niche perfumes, and it took me a while to truly appreciate this fantastic scent. It’s not for everyone, and it wouldn’t be right for me to claim otherwise. The pricing is reasonable, even though it’s a designer release priced at the niche level.
Read the full review at scentgrail.com
TOP NOTES
Upon the first sniff, one thing that might strike you as peculiar is that this fragrance incorporates three natural ingredients: mandarin, osmanthus, and immortelle. Despite this, the overall impression of this blend, though high in quality, leans towards a smooth synthetic composition that, nevertheless, cannot be ignored. Associations with scents akin to a dentist’s office and the aroma of a fresh pack of tennis balls persist, echoing sentiments expressed by many fragrance enthusiasts before. This fragrance is both transparent and deep at its core, making it suitable for year-round wear as a potential signature scent.
HEART NOTES
In the heart notes, both mandarin and saffron persist but are enhanced by the strong aroma of immortelle, akin to the one found in 1740 Marquis de Sade from Histoires de Parfums. While not as bitter as in that fragrance, it remains noticeably pleasant. The mineral essence prominent in the opening now takes the lead in the composition but never ventures into the aquatic territory, a characteristic likely to garner applause from enthusiasts.
BASE NOTES
It takes a considerable amount of time before you begin to notice the base notes in Ganymede.
Specifically, I’m referring to the leather jacket-like suede leather and the spicy akigalawood (a perfume note fractionated from patchouli oil, emitting a scent reminiscent of spicy woods). How Quentin Bisch managed to create something predominantly comprising heavier notes yet smelling both robust and transparent is beyond me, but it undeniably works. It functions so exquisitely that all the officially listed notes are discernible in varying degrees from the initial application until the fragrance becomes imperceptible.
OVERALL
In conclusion, this release stands as a beacon of creativity and innovation in the world of fragrances. I’m not easily impressed by new niche perfumes, and it took me a while to truly appreciate this fantastic scent. It’s not for everyone, and it wouldn’t be right for me to claim otherwise. The pricing is reasonable, even though it’s a designer release priced at the niche level.
Read the full review at scentgrail.com
Overpriced and nothing special
Gone and objectively forgotten. The lowest price I have seen for a 50ml bottle starts at $250.00 and goes up to $750.00, which is ludicrous. Even though I would consider myself lucky if this composition were remotely good, given that I paid only around $110.00 for it, I still feel that it was too much. London is a harsh and animalistic fragrance that smoothens out in the dry down, offering nothing new to seasoned perfume enthusiasts.
TOP NOTES
In the opening, the fragrance hits your olfactory senses with an abundance of spices and a hint of churchy incense.
Cumin dominates as the strongest note, accompanied by a harsh melange of plasticky saffron, cold cardamom, almost sneeze-inducing pepper, and lifeless coriander. This combination appears surprisingly unbalanced and falls short of the high standards set by previous Ford releases. Despite coffee being listed as a note, I failed to detect it.
HEART NOTES
In this phase, incense becomes the most prominent note, followed by a jammy rose instead of the listed jasmine and geranium. Right around this time, my biggest disappointment occurred. It simply smells like many other fragrances I have sampled or owned in the past. The spices from the beginning are literally bidding farewell with each passing minute as the base notes take over. Although I did catch a faint whiff of jasmine here and there, it’s almost nonexistent.
BASE NOTES
The base is good but faint. By this point, it’s a complete skin scent; hardly anyone except you will be able to smell the fragrance you’re wearing. The once-dominant rose and spices gracefully step back, making room for the prominent oud, musk, labdanum, and leather. This is the stage where it smells the most “niche.” The oud here is reminiscent of that found in Oud Wood, and the suede leather is akin to Tuscan Leather. Smoky, resinous, spicy, animalic, sweet, and undeniably masculine.
OVERALL
This is a prime example of why we shouldn’t rush to buy everything that is no longer in production. In most cases, discontinued scents rarely justify their inflated prices, and there is almost always a good reason why brands decide to stop selling them. Die-hard collectors might not agree with this, but for me, perfumes are a great addition to our fashion and life only if we can use them instead of staring at them in the back of our wardrobe just because they cannot be easily obtained anymore at an acceptable price. Not worth it at all.
Read the full review at scentgrail.com
TOP NOTES
In the opening, the fragrance hits your olfactory senses with an abundance of spices and a hint of churchy incense.
Cumin dominates as the strongest note, accompanied by a harsh melange of plasticky saffron, cold cardamom, almost sneeze-inducing pepper, and lifeless coriander. This combination appears surprisingly unbalanced and falls short of the high standards set by previous Ford releases. Despite coffee being listed as a note, I failed to detect it.
HEART NOTES
In this phase, incense becomes the most prominent note, followed by a jammy rose instead of the listed jasmine and geranium. Right around this time, my biggest disappointment occurred. It simply smells like many other fragrances I have sampled or owned in the past. The spices from the beginning are literally bidding farewell with each passing minute as the base notes take over. Although I did catch a faint whiff of jasmine here and there, it’s almost nonexistent.
BASE NOTES
The base is good but faint. By this point, it’s a complete skin scent; hardly anyone except you will be able to smell the fragrance you’re wearing. The once-dominant rose and spices gracefully step back, making room for the prominent oud, musk, labdanum, and leather. This is the stage where it smells the most “niche.” The oud here is reminiscent of that found in Oud Wood, and the suede leather is akin to Tuscan Leather. Smoky, resinous, spicy, animalic, sweet, and undeniably masculine.
OVERALL
This is a prime example of why we shouldn’t rush to buy everything that is no longer in production. In most cases, discontinued scents rarely justify their inflated prices, and there is almost always a good reason why brands decide to stop selling them. Die-hard collectors might not agree with this, but for me, perfumes are a great addition to our fashion and life only if we can use them instead of staring at them in the back of our wardrobe just because they cannot be easily obtained anymore at an acceptable price. Not worth it at all.
Read the full review at scentgrail.com
