Sniff Fest - Learning Chypre 9 years ago
(pics is from The Perfumed Court)
LEARNING CHYPRE - INTRODUCTION
Yasmin is anxious to begin this long-delayed sniff fest of 60 chypre perfumes, new and old. However, I inform her I must stop writing about perfumes for a time and return to writing novels.
She frowns. "Well, at least list the fragrances in case you are missing any important ones that others could tell you about.
I see her point. First, definitions. In the A-Z, Luca Turin defines the chypre accord as, "bergamot-labdanum-oakmoss." He says, "Good chypres are as complex as a fragrance can be without losing the plot." Yasmin points out we've seen the same for the orientals, several of which are on this list. Great ones are complex without losing the basic accord. Turin points out that the genre is called "Mossy Woods" in Michael Edwards' fragrance wheel. Popping over I see he defines the accord as oakmoss, amber and citrus -- not quite the same, but close. For me, a true chypre also has musk. In an effort to compensate for the restrictions, newer chypres often substitute patchouli and vetiver for the oakmoss.
Below is the list of chypres I've discovered, or that were suggested to me for this sniff-fest.
Fate Woman | Jubilation 25 Woman | Memoir Woman |
Miss Balmain |
Colors de Benetton |
Bijan Women |
Lady Caron | Tabac Blond |
Panthère de Cartier |
Ma Griffe |
31 rue Cambon | Coco Mademoiselle | Cristalle (Eau de Toilette) | Cuir de Russie |
Aromatics Elixir |
V for Women |
Chypre de Coty |
Miss Dior Original |
Mirabella | Parfum de Grasse |
Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle
Le Parfum de Thérèse | Noir Epices |
Azurée | Knowing | Private Collection | Private Collection Jasmine White Moss |
Armani Privé - Éclat de Jasmin |
L'Arte di Gucci |
Belle du Soir | Ylang 49 |
Liz Claiborne |
Paloma Picasso / Mon Parfum |
Parfums MDCI Paris
Chypre Palatin | Enlèvement au Sérail | Promesse de l'Aube |
Rosae Mundi |
Diaghilev | Enslaved | Mischief | Nüwa | Unspoken |
Chypre rouge | Daim blond | Rose de Nuit |
Eau du Soir |
No. 08 - Une Rose Chyprée |
Van Cleef & Arpels
Yasmin is relieved to know she'll get to return to this one day. "How long does it take to finish a novel?" she asks. "No telling," I reply. Yasmin looks upset. "Do you realize, author, that you have left my story hanging?"
I do and I'll rectify that now.
Having insulted Walad with a blatant display of his intimacy with Yasmin, Prince Ahmed invites him into the palace for dinner. Walad arrives stone-faced, interested only in taking possession of his son, he says, though his gaze returns to Yasmin again and again. The two men observe civilities, but after dinner, Walad demands to see his child. Prince Ahmed responds by informing Walad of the Sassanian belief which says the baby is his, not Walad's.
Walad erupts in anger as Yasmin knew he would. His own men must prevent him from grabbing a weapon. Soon Walad regains controls and says, "I have not brought an army, as you see, Prince Ahmed, only my personal contingent. I did not think that you, the heir to your throne, would break your word."
Prince Ahmed stands and takes Yasmin's hand. "I made no promise to you. My wife did. Her word does not bind me."
"You realize this means war?" Walad says in anger.
"So be it," Ahmed replies and leads Yasmin from the room.
That evening, Yasmin sends a desperate message to Fizur by way of Diba. "Would you see your beloved master, Walad, die? Would you see him kill my husband? If not, help me."
Fizur returns an answer. "I am at your command, my Sultana, for so you will ever be to me." Diba says that goes for her as well.
This is how the future heir, Adur, and his mother, Yasmin, came to leave their palace in the middle of the night, in a caravan that showed no royal markings or signs of wealth--accompanied by her faithful servant, Diba, by Diba's husband Fizur, and their child. Knowing the desert winds would in moments cover their tracks, Fizur turns their camels and horses (among them Yasmin's Arabian), toward north Africa where neither Walad nor Ahmed hold sway.
To be continued.
Last edited by ScentFan on 29.06.2015, 22:41; edited 1 time in total