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Politically incorrect fragrance notes?
by Ronin | Perfume Discussions
...What I had to learn in life: When someone says "I feel offended." don't reply instantly "But I didn't mean it!". Instead, listen. For our oriental discussion I feel that I need to listen more. This as a preface. Therefore, my current conclusion that Amber may not be a good replacement for Oriental, is tentative.Oriental is an olfactive genre. Like Fougère and Chypre, invented between the 80ies of 19th and the 20ies of 20th century. All three are abstract expressions which do not intend to smell naturalistically like fern, Cyprus, or Orient. While Fougère and Chypre may not be based on offensive stereotypes, Oriental is. It stands for a combination of ingredients from the "mystic Orient", reminiscent of the East (with some lack of geographical knowledge), and not the "rationale Occident": Most important Vanilla (Réunion, Madagascar, Java, ...) supported by ambergris. Fruity and spicy top notes, a heart composed of sweet and balsamic notes, as well as exotic resins of Arabia* (funnily enough, including labdanum which is mainly from European origin). I am sure "Orient" was a place of longing for François Coty and Jacques Guerlain, and their racism was positively connoted. Nevertheless, all variations of racism are offensive. So, replace Oriental? I am undecided. Perfumery as cultural achievement reflects its era, its sociocultural environment. Maybe we can learn from this term and its application? While undecided I will not use "Oriental" without  context anymore. Anyhow, to my opinion Amber(y) is not suitable to replace Oriental. Amber is a multifaceted odor note recalling natural ambergris.* Or a category/family of odor notes with quite different siblings whether ambroxan or ambergris-based or vanilla / labdanum. At least all these notes contain ambroxan (pure, from ambergris, from labdanum). Often, emerging woody ambers are seen as a subgroup of this family, too. Of course, many Orientals contain an amber base accord. But also Fougères. And some amber perfumes do not follow classical genres at all. Amber is an odor note or a family of odor notes, but no genre. Oriental is a genre but like Fougère and Chypre no family of odor notes.* “Scent and Chemistry - The Molecular World of Odors”, Günter Ohloff, Wilhelm Pickenhagen, Philipp Kraft, 2011 p. 49ff.
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Apicius
5 months ago