Ancient Resins 2012

Ancient Resins by Aftelier
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7.5 / 10 4 Ratings
A perfume by Aftelier for men, released in 2012. The scent is animal-synthetic. The production was apparently discontinued.
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Main accords

Animal
Synthetic
Green
Citrus
Leathery

Fragrance Notes

BenzoinBenzoin Canary balm CoconutCoconut Elemi resinElemi resin FrankincenseFrankincense LabdanumLabdanum

Perfumer

Ratings
Scent
7.54 Ratings
Longevity
5.84 Ratings
Sillage
5.84 Ratings
Bottle
5.111 Ratings
Submitted by DonVanVliet, last update on 07/01/2025.

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2 in-depth fragrance descriptions
ClaireV

958 Reviews
ClaireV
ClaireV
1  
Healing annointment
Ancient Resins by Aftelier was developed by perfumer Mandy Aftel in cooperation with, and expressly for, the great Leonard Cohen himself. It smells exactly what you'd think a Zen guy like Leonard Cohen would like - a warm treble base of resins that balances the bitter, cleansing properties of something that might be used in a Shamanic ritual with the dusty smell of wood, paper, and rosin breaking down in old record stores or bookshops.

I'm not sure it makes much sense to analyze this beautiful oil too much - just let it wash over you in a peaceful wave, just like Cohen's music - because it is, at heart, just a collection of resinous basenotes. And yet, the total effect is uplifting in a way that belies the simplicity of the blend.

Balm of Gilead is a note that jumps out at me, though, for its unusual biblical associations. Looking it up, it seems that the name refers (in religious history) to a balsam that was used as a spiritual balm to weary souls in Talmudic, Old Testament, and Muslim/Arabic history. Sources differ over what species of tree actually produced this balsam, although it seems to be either from mastic (green, herbal-smelling), pine, or terebinth /turpentine trees.

Although the opening notes of the oil are indeed very pine-like, I assume that this comes from the terpenes naturally present in the frankincense, because Mandy After clarifies that the Balm of Gilead note in Ancient Resins comes from poplar buds, from the Populus species of tree. These trees produce a nicely balmy scent on the white undersides of their leaves, and are used to produce the modern-day versions of the Balm of Gilead - basically, a wound- and spirit-healing balm.

And Ancient Resins is healing. It is healing and calming and restorative. I can see why Leonard Cohen reportedly wore this every day of his life. It seems to have the power to right everywhere that is wrong in the world, just like his music. A knitting together of things that have been fractured.
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5
Scent
Tinctureall

94 Reviews
Tinctureall
Tinctureall
Helpful Review 4  
Ancient resins it is
Sharp and smooth resins intermingle and jiggle with each other for supremacy. The elemi carries them along on a gently green tinged fresh saplike fug, Benzoin and labdanum for once not really interfering with the sharper citrus aspects of the frankincense but supporting gently from within without sweetness. I don't know canary balm but there is a soft bark-like aroma here that I am unfamiliar with. This does what it says on the box. No surprises but pleasant.
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