Cuir de Gardenia Parfum

Cuir de Gardenia (Parfum) by Aftelier
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8.4 / 10 4 Ratings
A perfume by Aftelier for women and men. The release year is unknown. The scent is animal-sweet. It is still in production.
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Main accords

Animal
Sweet
Gourmand
Leathery
Floral

Fragrance Notes

Benzyl acetateBenzyl acetate CastoreumCastoreum Ethyl phenyl acetateEthyl phenyl acetate Jasminum grandiflorum absoluteJasminum grandiflorum absolute MaltolMaltol Tiaré absoluteTiaré absolute

Perfumer

Ratings
Scent
8.44 Ratings
Longevity
5.73 Ratings
Sillage
5.33 Ratings
Bottle
4.03 Ratings
Submitted by Greifswald, last update on 05/30/2025.
Variant of the fragrance concentration
This is a variant of the perfume Cuir de Gardenia (Solid Perfume) by Aftelier, which differs in concentration.

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Reviews

1 in-depth fragrance description
ClaireV

958 Reviews
ClaireV
ClaireV
1  
An unusual (and unusually lovely) take on gardenia
I have a horror of gardenia, finding it usually too bleu-cheesey (Dame Perfumery’s Gardenia soliflore) or too fruity-candied-tropical (especially the tiare variety, the kind used here), but I really like Cuir de Gardenia.

Two reasons, really. First of all, there is an intense, earthy note headlining the scent, with the sort of dark, cereal-brown bitterness usually found in buckwheat or chestnut honey. This forms part of the leather accord that tames and anchors the fruity gardenia, making it seem more serious and darker. Although the leather accord is castoreum-driven, it is not overtly animalic at all, only appearing as part of the overall musky, leathery aromas in the background. It is, for example, 100 times more subtle than Mona di Orio’s Cuir. (The castoreum used is partly from antique perfumer’s stock of the real stuff, partly from castor pods, for people wondering about the ethics of using real castoreum).

Second, despite lingering in a fruity, creamy gardenia (tiare) mid-section for a while, it dries down to an indolic jasmine that is either identical or similar to the jasmine tincture/enfleurage included in the Fragrant companion testing kit. This might be a disappointment to someone looking for a gardenia soliflore, but the truth is, I prefer jasmine. The jasmine used here smells great and dirty in a very natural, unassisted way, kind of like in the triple extract of Santa Maria Novella’s Gelsomino. This type of jasmine has a sort of lank, sweaty horsiness about it in the far drydown that I really like, although some might interpret this as leathery or sour. Overall, a very subtle and natural interpretation of the most difficult of white flowers (for me), and a million miles away from the shouty, cheesy gardenia or tiare perfumes that I’d tested previously.
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