The Midnight Flower

Bracken Woman 2016

Dibi
20.04.2023 - 11:43 AM
4

The Stepford Wives of Bracken

Forget the green, floral and fresh scents of classic perfumery : Bracken is definitely one of the experimenal fragrances in the Amouage line-up, and in perfumery in general. Do not go to the Bracken forest for tart berries, or lush lilies, or delicate chamomile. Bracken is a photorealistic take on fern, done in large and coarse strokes probably to reproduce the plant itself in giant, graphic proportions, set against a sweet yet nondescript background that is used to represent berries and flowers. The opening stage has some vibrantly green synthetic notes to give off an impression of a bright carpet of ripe grass.

I do not distinguish a single floral note in Bracken, nor do I smell vetiver or leather listed in the pyramid. What I do get is an abudance of powder, heaps and heaps of powder which never evolves or warms up. It is not the soft, intimate powderiness of your classic Carons, Chanels or Guerlains, it is the post-industiral powder of the 'perfect world' where the grass and the flowers and the roads and the buildings are all uniform, one colour, one size, one category, all alike just like the 'perfect influencers', content-creators and media gurus of the modern-day that strangely seem all alike as do the fashions and ideas they keep pushing: going to places everyone else is going, wearing things everyone else is wearing and posting photos everyone else is posting.

There are people that love their perfume to smell clean, crisp and fresh, like a starched white shirt that has just been picked up from the cleaners. There are people that just love the smell of laundry above all else. I guess that was the brief for Dorothee Piot and Karine Vinchon Spencer with Bracken : 'make an Amouage freshie'. Is this scent part of the Amouage Dna? No. Is it a complex, deep, rich perfume? Again no. Is it worth the Amouage price tag? I don't think so. It is original in its intense photorealistic verdancy and its unceasing 'Tide Original' washing powder vibe, but it lacks personality and a human touch.

I think Bracken would be the perfect scent for Nicole Kridman and other pretty ladies in the Stepford Wives movie, where everyone is perfect with perfect looks, kids and houses but a lifeless robot on the inside, and probably for many picture-perfect influencers of today.
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