08/01/2024

JBirb
14 Reviews

JBirb
1
Choking on powder
One of the few offerings from this house I truly dislike. As an iris lover, I was excited to try this, and powder notes do agree with me in some cases (like in Putain des Palaces or Iris Poudre). But Incarnata is a type of powder I cannot stomach. First of all, the orris. It is briefly present in its own right, earthy and alive, but then quickly gets subsumed into the lipstick accord. That accord is actually really nicely done. There is the waxiness of an orris that has shed the last remnants of soil from its skin. There is a subtle rosiness, aided by a touch of raspberry. And together they truly smell like vintage lipstick: rich, saturated, glamorous. But alas, this phase of Incarnata does not last. The waxiness disappears, the raspberry becomes amplified into globs of sticky jam, and everything that read like creamy lipstick at first now turns into suffocating face powder. I feel like I am being worked over by great fluffy puffs saturated with the stuff. Powder in such aggressive quantities, the complexion underneath it completely disappears. A very overt perfume, unflinchingly dedicated to its concept, but really not for me.