Chypre du Nord Bortnikoff 2020

I was able to test Chypre du Nord in the form of a sample that I received with an order. Naturally, this led, as it should, to the purchase of a bottle.

First, I want to address the question of whether Chypre du Nord is really a chypre, especially considering the very dominant peach note. Yes, Chypre du Nord is definitely a chypre, although I wouldn't necessarily describe it as a classic chypre. For me, chypres tend to be a bit darker and also dirtier. In Chypre du Nord, notes like labdanum or galbanum, which make fragrances like Chypré Extraordinaire or Diaghilev Parfum so dark or slightly animalic, are not present. Chypre du Nord is beautifully soft and never overwhelming.

Now to the scent development of Chypre du Nord: After spraying, citrus fruits and the peach immediately come to the forefront. The darker notes only emerge after 20-30 minutes. Here, you can particularly smell nutmeg and oakmoss. I really like the oakmoss here, just as I did in "Moss Cologne | Bortnikoff." The birch tar gives the fragrance its typical chypre character. After 2-3 hours, a lovely animalic quality comes into play, which is due to the musk.

The longevity is very good for me. I can perceive the scent with three sprays for 11-12 hours without any problems. It seems to last significantly better on me than on other perfume enthusiasts. The sillage is clearly noticeable for 2-3 hours beyond an arm's length and only becomes intimate after 7-8 hours.

Now I want to briefly touch on the reason why Chypre du Nord was allowed to join my collection: I have been searching for a light chypre for a long time that truly embodies something of a vintage "Mitsouko (Extrait) | Guerlain," specifically from the 60s or 70s. Unfortunately, Shangri La (2022) could only partially achieve this, which is why I parted ways with that fragrance and purchased a bottle of Chypre du Nord. Of course, Chypre du Nord, like many very old chypres, has the disadvantage of containing real musk. Unfortunately, this note gives me that very unique character of a vintage chypre. Naturally, this is not ethically correct. I think this is also clear to every buyer, but where does one start and where does one stop? Most cosmetics are similarly borderline, especially anti-aging and wrinkle creams. In the end, everyone must decide for themselves whether they want to buy such a fragrance or not. After much consideration, I did.