Shangri La (2022) is a new release of the version "Shangri La (2014) | Hiram Green," which is no longer available and which I am not familiar with. At Hiram Green, it is stated:
I translated the beauty and purity of Shangri La into a contemporary interpretation of a classic chypre perfume.
[...]
It takes a good nose to distinguish the 2022 edition from the original Shangri La. The most noticeable difference is perhaps a lighter and warmer character with greater emphasis on floral and spicy notes. (*)
I liked Shangri La very much. It is truly a great chypre. In my opinion, it is not a classic chypre, but an oriental chypre. I do not quite understand what the "modern interpretation" is supposed to consist of.
The inspiration for Shangri La is certainly the classic chypre "Mitsouko (Extrait) | Guerlain." Their fragrance note lists are almost identical. In the comments and reviews of the Shangri La version from 2014, Mitsouko is often referenced as well. Additionally, there is a comparative review of Polyanthes (in English), which I did not read before writing mine.
So I tested both perfumes side by side:
Shangri La (2022) on the left wrist,
Mitsouko Extrait (current Thierry Wasser version) on the right wrist, each with 1 spray. The SL atomizer sprayed noticeably stronger, but that is okay to compensate for the lower concentration.
Mitsouko opens more bitter, soapy, and spicy, while Shangri La is sweeter, less citrusy, less floral, and overall less contrasting, more powdery. I find Mitsouko more vibrant and fascinating in the opening. After about 1 hour, the two fragrances develop further apart. Shangri La initially changes more towards a cinnamon-powdery spiciness and becomes heavier, while Mitsouko becomes brighter and more floral and a bit airy. The peach in Mitsouko is significantly more prominent at this point. It is also fruitier than in Shangri La. Mitsouko also has the more present and softer rose. This may not be a plus for everyone.
Interestingly and surprisingly, the direction of development reverses about another hour later: Mitsouko becomes a bit spicier than before, and in Shangri La, the peach note now comes to the fore better. Nevertheless, Shangri La remains spicier than Mitsouko until the end; I smell clove and cinnamon. Unfortunately, the cinnamon does stand out a bit and does not want to fit in neatly - the only imbalance in this perfume. Here I wonder if the "greater emphasis on spicy notes" was perhaps a small misstep.
A little later, Mitsouko becomes more sensual; the rose has receded, and a very, very softly indolic jasmine takes the lead among the flowers. In contrast, Shangri La is unfortunately completely free of corporeality throughout its development. Although I sense other floral notes in Shangri La, I cannot identify them.
After another 2 hours, Mitsouko is quite close to the skin (still intense on the skin), while Shangri La still radiates a bit stronger. In Shangri La, I smell stronger clove and now also nutmeg; it feels dry and slightly sweet. (Perhaps that is supposed to be "modern"?) In contrast, the jasmine has disappeared from Mitsouko; it now feels more balanced and intertwined than Shangri La, dark-moist, and still a bit fresh. Both have a typical chypre base with a good dose of oakmoss. From now on, both remain as they are and gradually weaken. Mitsouko disappears after about 6 hours. Shangri La lasts about 2 hours longer but does not do itself any great favors with that.
Shangri La is not a Mitsouko clone. However, one does not offend Hiram Green by calling Shangri La a tribute to Mitsouko, and indeed a tribute that - especially in the first half of its development - contains many literal quotes. I do not want to pass judgment, as I am biased: Mitsouko (and Jicky) are, in my opinion, among the best perfumes that have ever existed and will ever exist. One must have courage to measure oneself against that and skill to hold up in the comparison. So hats off! Both perfumes are fascinating material for chypre enthusiasts.
By the way, the first time I smelled Shangri La was when I sprayed it on a perfume-loving acquaintance. I was immediately smitten. So was she: she immediately took steps to inform Santa Claus.
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(*) The German translation of the quote from Hiram Green: "I have translated the beauty and purity of Shangri La into a contemporary interpretation of a classic chypre perfume. [...] It takes a good nose to distinguish the 2022 edition from the original Shangri La. The most noticeable difference is perhaps a lighter and warmer character with a stronger emphasis on floral and spicy notes."
Peach
Spices
Cinnamon
Bergamot
Jasmine
Oakmoss
Orange
Vetiver
Iris
Lemon
Rose
Kurai
TheDunkPapa
Alconichiwa
Val619kt
Quailist
CowgirlBebop
Liberrita
EvangMM
Mike212
Eggi37
