Salander
09.06.2019 - 02:21 PM
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Scent

"I want a perfume for women that smells like a woman!" - Coco Chanel

When Karl Lagerfeld "the Great" turned off into the entrance of the cosmetics headquarters, he already had the firm idea in his head. The renovation of the New York boutique on 57th Street was about to be finalised, and the reopening was approaching. He has also just moved his Métiers-d'art collection to the Metropolitan Museum. These events should be celebrated with a new perfume in addition to the current fashion collection. The fragrance could be called 1957. At that time Coco received the Mode Oscar, the "Neiman Marcus Award for Distinguished Service in the Field of Fashion" in America. It was the year of her comeback after the war and overseas she was still very successful for a long time. That would be a nice homage to Gabriele Chanel and the Americans. Oliver (Polge) will certainly agree. And he will certainly come up with something great that would combine the idea with a fragrance.

This is how the 17th perfume of the series "Les Exclusives" by Chanel was born.

And now, before I continue with the perfume description at this point, I would like to take a short detour.

Last year, perfume generated sales of around 40 billion dollars worldwide. Brands, manufactories, maisons and manufacturers as far as the eye can see. The attempt to test all new releases promptly gives an idea of how senselessly Sisyphos must have tried to fulfil his task.

At some point, when I took the news magazine "Der Spiegel" in my hand, a little light came on to me. Sooner or later the same topics will be discussed in all newspapers, only with a different focus and usually differentiated according to one's own political convictions. What applies to various magazines and trade journals also determines the fragrance landscape. Trends are gradually being picked up and interpreted differently by different manufacturers throughout the market. Today I don't follow every brand anymore. Etat Libre d'Orange has been stolen from me for a long time. If someone enjoys driving his olfactory ghost train laps and tarring his synapses at the same time, he is welcome to do so. I'll wait outside.

On the other hand, I like most of Guerlain and Chanel's creations very much. My expectations are disproportionately often fulfilled by the two traditional houses. Under the direction of Thierry Wasser or Olivier Polge, no "toxic" compounds are invented, but poems of molecules, a scenttaura that caresses the wearer. For me, the most beautiful olfactory encounters are feminine, creamy, powdery, floral and pure. 1957 is in my eyes a direct hit.

In the first line you will find a white musk fragrance that does what it does best in a fine manner, smelling of cleanliness, cleanliness and sensuality. Oliver Polge himself describes 1957 as follows: "Its essence, its basis is white musk from eight varieties, only comes to full bloom on the skin".

I would like to be honest, with a blind test I could only have clearly stated that this is an ethereal feminine musk scent. Besides, I only noticed the similarity with two other fixed sizes. The fragrance that Cacharel has made successful with Noa and White Suede refined with leather is varied by the perfumer with soft tones of Jacques Polges beige.

In 1957, Oliver Polge created a wonderful understatement fragrance in the tradition of his father and according to Coco Chanel's motto: "I want a perfume for women that smells like a woman" Hand on your heart, don't we all want that?

(Source: WELT - "Not Paris, but America celebrated Coco Chanel back then")
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