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A life lived
I don't know much about "Mademoiselle" Coco Chanel, there are better informed experts here on this site. For me, the few highlights paint a picture of a woman who lived intensely and not only in a good way: a precarious background, orphanage, hard years of proving herself, successes, setbacks and, of course, numerous affairs and relationships and here, too, some tragedy.
I associate the great and early milestones of the house (No.5, 22, Cuir de Russie, etc.) less with her as a person, although they may reflect facets of her personality at certain times and in connection with certain life events.
In "Cristalle", on the other hand, I see Mademoiselle in the fading late fall of her life. The pungent spirit has remained and is evident in the effervescence of the citrus fruits, which can also easily tip over into the pointed, sharp-tongued. For me, the hyacinth expresses power and also pride - a look at the successes and the empire that has been created. Penhaligon's "Bluebell" also focuses on this note and was probably also preferred by a power-consciously dominant former British Prime Minister for this reason. There is hardly any warmth in this fragrance, even if traces of rosewood do provide some. Instead, the cool base note is complemented by an accord that makes me think a little of a full ashtray. A vice that Mademoiselle must have indulged in extensively throughout her life. What remains at the end of such a life?
You can certainly see "Cristalle" as an excellent realization of a fragrance that exudes freshness and coolness. It was certainly well suited to its time of origin and has rightly acquired a fan base ever since. For me personally, however, it is also a tribute by the former head perfumer at Chanel, Henri Robert, to his master. For me, the personality facets hinted at and assumed above also resonate in "No.19", which was created three years earlier. In my opinion, both fragrances suit people who have lived intensely, who are proud of what they have achieved, but who have also been dealt many a blow by life that has left emotional scars and lent them a certain bitterness without diminishing their dignity. But as the poem by Roland Breitenbach so beautifully puts it: "Nothing was in vain!"
(p.s.: My review refers to an older edition. I understand that the new reformulation aims for more warmth and fewer "edges". What are your experiences?)
I associate the great and early milestones of the house (No.5, 22, Cuir de Russie, etc.) less with her as a person, although they may reflect facets of her personality at certain times and in connection with certain life events.
In "Cristalle", on the other hand, I see Mademoiselle in the fading late fall of her life. The pungent spirit has remained and is evident in the effervescence of the citrus fruits, which can also easily tip over into the pointed, sharp-tongued. For me, the hyacinth expresses power and also pride - a look at the successes and the empire that has been created. Penhaligon's "Bluebell" also focuses on this note and was probably also preferred by a power-consciously dominant former British Prime Minister for this reason. There is hardly any warmth in this fragrance, even if traces of rosewood do provide some. Instead, the cool base note is complemented by an accord that makes me think a little of a full ashtray. A vice that Mademoiselle must have indulged in extensively throughout her life. What remains at the end of such a life?
You can certainly see "Cristalle" as an excellent realization of a fragrance that exudes freshness and coolness. It was certainly well suited to its time of origin and has rightly acquired a fan base ever since. For me personally, however, it is also a tribute by the former head perfumer at Chanel, Henri Robert, to his master. For me, the personality facets hinted at and assumed above also resonate in "No.19", which was created three years earlier. In my opinion, both fragrances suit people who have lived intensely, who are proud of what they have achieved, but who have also been dealt many a blow by life that has left emotional scars and lent them a certain bitterness without diminishing their dignity. But as the poem by Roland Breitenbach so beautifully puts it: "Nothing was in vain!"
(p.s.: My review refers to an older edition. I understand that the new reformulation aims for more warmth and fewer "edges". What are your experiences?)
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Pneumatos 2 months ago
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