Some time ago, I read a review here on Parfumo where an oriental fragrance was evaluated. The author had difficulty warming up to the scent, as he believed that the DNA of oriental fragrances did not fit the culture of the Western Hemisphere. The poor guy had to endure quite a bit of criticism for this statement.
Despite my great passion for oriental (especially OUD) fragrances, I see it similarly, and there are a variety of oriental creations that simply do not fit, for me personally, in regions with deciduous and coniferous forests and temperatures, seasonally, below freezing. I am aware that I will not receive applause from die-hard oriental fragrance lovers for this statement.
I am often met with a scowl and asked:
“What fragrances and ingredients are, please, in olfactory harmony with, for example, European culture????”
Field widow flowers? Wild garlic? Bee orchid? Wood anemone or poppy?
No, of course not!
However, wonderful neroli is obtained from Spanish orange blossoms. Verbena occurs in temperate climates, and juicy, zesty lemons have been cultivated in Europe since the 13th century. This allows for the realization of this wonderful EU top note.
Cardamom originally comes from South India and falls outside the EU framework. Coriander, on the other hand, is found in Bulgaria, Croatia, and Slovenia. Basil and ginger unfortunately do not originate right outside my East Westphalian front door, yet this green-spicy 25% EU heart note impresses.
European oak moss and cedarwood dominate the EU base, and it no longer matters that vetiver has its origins in Asia.
Thus, I suspect that in 1955, Henri Robert's goal, who was born in Grasse by the way, was to create a chypre that fits in temperate climates and can be worn in both warm and cold temperatures without losing its radiance and performance, and which has belonged to the “must-have” fragrances of a man both then and now.
The answer to the question should thus be somewhat clarified.
Sounds "Euro-centric." You know, I really don't care whether the perfumer wanted to create a European scent or not. The main thing is that it smells good. And with Chanel, that’s definitely the case. I hate oud and can't stand the stuff. But even though oud comes from Arab countries, it's often artificially recreated and constantly mixed into new creations that are sold in Europe. Why? Because people like it. To each their own...
Absolutely right. You don't write reviews or comments to please others. That's my opinion. In Dubai, you can smell Oud almost everywhere in the malls, where it's freshly burned. I just associate the scent of Oud with this country.
You know, I really don't care whether the perfumer wanted to create a European scent or not. The main thing is that it smells good. And with Chanel, that’s definitely the case. I hate oud and can't stand the stuff. But even though oud comes from Arab countries, it's often artificially recreated and constantly mixed into new creations that are sold in Europe. Why? Because people like it.
To each their own...
Otherwise, just a bit of earth or wood - smell local!