mattitjahu

A couple of my Parfumo friends and fragrance buddies know that my passion is primarily for fragrances with a lot of oud. They are probably just as surprised as I am that there have been some changes in my fragrance passion over the past few months and that my oud-heavy collection has been completely overhauled.

From (real) agarwood, civet, castoreum and birch tar to vanilla, rum and benzoin.
From creaky, dark and animalic to gourmand, sweet and spicy.

That's exactly why Spiritueuse Double Vanille had to join my collection.

This fragrance has been on the market for some time and with over 1200 reviews, there is certainly nothing new to write about for lovers of this fragrance DNA. My review is therefore aimed more at those who may also be going through changes in their fragrance cosmos and are not yet familiar with this type of fragrance.

SDV is not a complex fragrance that you can analyze for hours. (Definitely less exhausting than having your arm under your nose all evening cataloging the various ouds of an Ensa cracker). Linear and focused on the essentials best describes SDV: rum and vanilla. What really impresses me here, however, is the quality, heaviness and elegance of the fragrance. Everything flows seamlessly into one another. Nothing pinches or tweaks. Nothing that doesn't fit in, no 20-minute top note disaster, as I had to go through with so many of my former fragrances, rolling my eyes.

As I live in a subtropical climate zone, I can say with conviction that the hot temperatures of up to 45° give this fragrance a more intense radiance and depth than is the case in a temperate zone.
I particularly notice the boozy, smoky notes and, of course, the unsurpassable, heavy vanilla. And with this DNA, that's enough for me to enjoy SDV in a versatile way at the office, at dinner or simply during my relaxation routine (shower-pajama-sofa).
The longevity of the base notes is phenomenal.

So as not to jeopardize my friendships with my OUDies in and outside of Parfumo, let it be said that eaglewood, castoreum, civet, smoke and animalic notes are still a part of me and I continue to appreciate and enjoy these ingredients and scents.

During my short holiday in London last week, a visit to Harrods in the "Salon de Parfums" was not to be missed. On the 6th floor give themselves among other things strangelove nyc, Henry Jacques and of course Roja Dove in the hand and as it happens, I actually had the opportunity to meet Roja personally.

I felt like a little boy and had to take a breath and look for the right words to not look like a complete idiot. Probably it's the respect, towards him, which led to my initial gasp ;)
Anyway, we got to talking and he actually took the time to walk me through his creations. Yes, of course he does and it is certainly part of his sales strategy. However, this is completely secondary to me at that moment. Rather, I enjoy being treated as a customer in such a way that no wishes or questions remain unanswered. I felt Pudelwohl!

Semi-Bespoke 4 is a very beautiful fragrance, very finely drawn and natural. I have the feeling that all the ingredients are much clearer and more intense, as with the "standard" Rojas, come to the fore. However, this may also be due to the fact that Mr. Dove uses a lot of "fancy words" in his "sales talk". Doesn't matter, the opening anyway, with the tangy citrus, is quite something. The heart notes suggest a strong floral DNA, but that's not the case, as cinnamon, patch and sandalwood from the base join in quite early on.
The drydown is a dream of creamy woody notes, a slightly powdery iris and a varied play between patch earthy bitter and sweet vanilla.

The fragrance costs the equivalent of €875, so of course it was way over my budget. I'm also sure there are plenty of very good alternatives with similar DNA that cost far less. Nevertheless, it was an experience and pleasure to enjoy a sense of luxury in a truly exceptional store including Roja Dove. Wish list!

Some time ago, I read a review here on Parfumo that rated an oriental fragrance. The author had his difficulties to make friends with the fragrance, because he was of the opinion that the DNA of oriental fragrances does not fit the culture of the western hemisphere. The poor guy had to take quite a bit of criticism for that statement.

Despite my great passion for oriental (especially OUD) fragrances, I see it similarly and there are a variety of oriental creations that, for me personally, just don't fit in regions with deciduous and coniferous forests and temperatures, seasonally, below freezing. That I also with this statement with die-hard Orientduft-Liebhaben no applause reap, I am aware.

Often I am then always looked at with bad face and asked:

"Which fragrances and ingredients are then please beautiful in olfactory harmony with, for example, European culture????"

Field widow's-flowers? Wild garlic? Bee ragwort? Wood anemone or corn poppy?

No, of course not!

However, wonderful neroli is extracted from Spanish orange blossoms. Verbena is found in temperate climates and juicy tangy lemons have been grown in Europe since the 13th century. This can then also realize this wonderful EU top note.

Cardamom originally comes from southern India and falls outside the EU grid. Coriander, on the other hand, is found in Bulgaria, Croatia and Slovenia. Basil and ginger have their origin, unfortunately, also not on my East Westphalian doorstep and yet impresses this green-spicy 25% EU heart note.

European oakmoss and cedar dominate in the EU base and then it no longer matters that vetiver has its origins in Asia.

Thus, I suspect that in 1955 it was the goal of Henri Robert, who incidentally came into the world in Grasse, to create a Chypre that fits in temperate climates and can thus be worn in warm and cold temperatures, without losing charisma and performance and then as well as now belongs to the "must have" fragrances of a man.

The answer to the question should be clarified with it to some extent.

Chanel - Pour Monsieur!

Neriko (pastille) refers to incense and was used in ancient Japan by aristocrats and government officials to perfume their garments. Neriko was traditionally prepared on a base of plum pulp or honey and mixed with a mixture of fragrant woods (OUD), spices and herbs to make small pellets. The neriko pellets were then buried underground for several years to mature. Neriko is never lit or burned directly on charcoal. Rather, it is gently heated and is one of the oldest uses of OUD in Japanese tradition. *

Neriko - Extrait de Parfum is dedicated to this Japanese tradition.

The fragrance impresses with rough and wild ouds which merge with buttery soft sandalwood. The slightly gourmand heart notes of plums and apricots give Neriko a wonderful creamy-sweet DNA. In the base, spices and warm and light smoke join in for a very authentic and natural OUD experience.

*Source: https://agaraura.com/neriko.html

EO No.1 Assam is the 3rd edition of Ensar's EO No.1 series and overwhelms me hopelessly right at the beginning. The first 10 - 15 min are for me a roller coaster of emotions and my enthusiasm but also my dislike are close together. After that, however, Assam becomes a little rounder and calmer and, with a slight hint of roses, for me also more cuddly and familiar. Civet, which usually meets with rejection from me, is here, fortunately, not so potent. Moving into the base, Assam surprises me with earthy and woody fresh oud (similar to Ensar Monsieur Oud) paired with soothing incense. The sandalwood and vanilla add some warmth to the fragrance, yet oud, smoke and leather continue to dominate. The evolution of EO No1 Assam varies frequently. To build a long-term relationship with Assam, especially as an OUD novice, time and patience are essential factors.