Orphéon 2021

Rivegauche
10.03.2021 - 06:28 PM
38
Top Review
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8
Pricing
9
Bottle
8
Sillage
8
Longevity
6.5
Scent

Paris by night?

As a source of inspiration to Orphéon probably served the eponymous night bar, which was directly adjacent to the parent house Diptyque's on the Boulevard Saint-Germain, admittedly at the less bustling lower end of it.

Orphéon should now take us into the atmosphere of this long-defunct bar, probably the second living room of the three founders of the company. And if this fragrance is indeed to remind us of this bar, it is no wonder that it no longer exists.

The fragrance itself is described relatively quickly. The already often smelled fruity fresh start (currant as a reminiscence of L'Ombre dans L'Eau?) is followed by an innocent floral touch of jasmine, here made almost unrecognizable from all humanizing facets, stirred in a base of restrained shampoo musk, which at least slightly powdery cosmetic facets of made-up faces in the semi-darkness recognizes....and airy light woods with moderate sweetness, which fortunately do not seem sugared. Tonka bean will contribute the naturally creamy sweetness while dry cedar keeps everything in check, juniper probably contributes the light aromatics. Orphéon retains throughout a rather light-hearted clarity, which is after all long-lasting.

But where on earth is Parisian nightlife now? This fragrance should take us back to a night bar, in a night bar of the hip left bank of the Seine, the rive gauche in Paris...so in the Paris of the sixties to eighties. In the time of sexual liberation, the Paris of YSL, the Paris of Karl Lagerfeld, Sonia Rykiel, Sartre, Gréco, Gainsbourg, Hallyday etc, the couture, the chic of the Café de Flore, the Deux Magots, the first great drug experiences, the Paris of wine, champagne...and most importantly: the smoking Paris!
This fragrance unfortunately conveys the complete opposite, it is Paris in times of Corona: everyone is at home, the bar is closed and no one smokes anymore, the air conditioning works great and vegan food is eaten anyway for a long time.

I'm already aware that not every night bar lived permanently unbridled life, but at Orphéon any passion is missing. Not even one to three sparks of smoke may glow in this fragrance...at that time, but all have permanently squawked everywhere what the stuff held, especially the French with their Gauloises and Gitanes. Also the jasmine used here is unfortunately free of undesodorized physical close to ang standing human facets in the evening, and dark (dark!) Orphéon is not at all, here shines the 100 watt clear glass bulb.

Do not misunderstand, the fragrance is quite wonderful uncomplicated and easy to wear, tends to be probably more feminine. It is carefully composed, well blended, appears high-quality, is well durable and has enough radiation. Lovers of Philosykos, Eau Rose or Eau Mohéli might like it, also the Hermès Gardens or the more innocuous Maison Dior fragrances still come to mind.
As you could read he does not like me so, because I just find the theme completely missed...and the fragrance just unfortunately also rather boring. But as a big long-time fan of the brand I may also find what not so great.
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