Orphéon 2021

CieloMasa
18.07.2023 - 06:09 AM
3
8
Pricing
7
Bottle
8
Sillage
10
Longevity
9.5
Scent

My favourite Diptyque: a performance monster

I was nearing the end of the bottle of my signature scent (Passage d'Enfer Extrême), so I went to the Milan boutique during my lunch break, hoping to pick up a replacement. I tried on Eau Capitale, Eau Rose EDP, and Orpheon, which I brought home with me.

Although it is listed under the Woody Floral family, I believe it is a Chypre. Very multi faceted, to the point where every time I sniff myself, I get different notes and impressions. It's a lot of fun, and I don't go noseblind on this one. It is not linear, but it is well blended.

It starts with some sparkling fruitiness and gradually transitions into clean white floral; it's still somewhat sweet at this point, but there's something sombre and cool behind the sweetness to balance it out. After about 3/4 hour of dry down, the wood begins to come out to play, powdery but not cosmetic. Then there's the smokiness! Very enticing, but not overpowering, so you don't smell like a church or temple.

Unisex and suitable for both young and mature people. Moderate sillage that is polite but still leaves a trail. I get a full day out of 2/3 sprays, and I can still smell the wood and smoke after showering, even overnight.

However, I hope Diptyque improves their bottle. The design is appealing for interiors and photographs, but the quality is poor up close. I get air bubbles behind the sticker, and the low-quality plastic cap bothers me. Despite their longevity issues, L'artisan Parfumeur at least has heavy glass bottles and caps.

_

Note:
I disagree with those who claim it fails to capture the creative story of a 1960s Paris jazz bar. To my nose during a full 24 hour scenting session because it lasts that long on my skin, I get sweet and fruity (even gourmand) from the drinks; floral and powder from the ladies in black dresses; and wood and smokiness from cigars and old bar counters. It has everything an artistic jazz bar should have, in my opinion.

Reminder: it's not supposed to be a nightlife in the clubs!
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