Desired Élisire 2017

Desired is an Oriental without a doubt. It has everything you need in lush measurement and remarkable composition. The first spray immediately makes me think of Christmas cookies. The clove is strong, twirling with the bergamot a bit in the nose closely followed by a heavy bearing saffron butter. The twirling subsides a bit and a dark rose that is about to wilt takes you in its velvety arms. Multi-layered it continues. Saffron, carnation and the fading rose form a pack that is not to the advantage of all three. Cedar now makes a clear appearance and although I appreciate woody notes, extracts from this tree species have always struck me as quite penetrating. The oud plays in a gothic, humid daydream and so the notes spin around in circles like dervishes. The whole thing goes on for about 2-3 hours until finally vanilla and amber give the violent hustle and bustle a little more calm and warmth. The drydown is really the best part of this scent. The head and heart are completely overloaded for my tastes, with some of the notes unbalanced or poorly matched. The saffron-clove-bergamot mix gives me a headache pretty quickly. And the rose-cedar blend that follows hits me right in the stomach. A truly original approach that seeks a way out of the "classic" orientals and goes its own way. I tried to use it as a room scent and I had to tear open the windows after half an hour to let it go. Forever!