To get straight to the point: This fragrance bears a strong resemblance to Hypnotic Poison by Dior.
However, I prefer Guipure & Silk because it is, despite having the exact same vanilla note, additionally more floral and not as overwhelming in its pudding-vanilla-powder note.
I am a huge fan of vanilla fragrances, I love and own Vanitas, Orchidée Vanille, Note Vanillee, La Maison de la Vanille, etc., but I have always passed on Hypnotic Poison despite multiple purchases; it never fully convinced me.
I perceive the typical vanilla note as very distinctive and intense. It has a somewhat dry-bitter-dusty quality and is truly opulent. Both vanilla notes, in HP and in G & S, remind me of vanilla pudding powder when you pour it into a bowl and hold your nose over it before adding the milk. Or a mix of that scent impression and the enhancement when you lick your finger, briefly dip it into the powder, and then tap it back onto your tongue. Plus a ton of sugar and almond baking aroma.
Both HP and G & S strike me as sweet, heavy, oriental, almond-vanilla, and egg yolk-heavy, mixed with honey-sweet jasmine, distinct almonds, and coconut. A little bit artificial as well - or maybe not so little artificial?
Now I’m writing so much about this vanilla note, and yes, even though it’s not quite my favorite, it definitely polarizes!
What HP achieves with apricot, plum, and allspice, G & S creates with angelica, licorice, and sweet almonds. They both have coconut in the top note, which I perceive as nearly identical despite these large differences.
In the heart note, the first difference appears, which in G & S reveals itself as more refined and finely tuned with the prominent vanilla note.
Jasmine and rose are characteristic of both fragrances in the heart. But G & S becomes more floral, multidimensional, refined, and interesting through flowers like frangipani, heliotrope, mimosa, orange blossoms, and grounding cloves. A hint of freshness is also present, which underscores the heavy vanilla like chili enhances the sweetness in chocolate.
In HP, it’s supposed to be lily of the valley, tuberose, and rosewood. However, I can hardly pick them out individually; instead, together with the almonds, HP smells very linear to me.
Then in the base, Guipure & Silk transforms into a close-to-the-skin aura, the sweet-bitter heaviness of the special vanilla note has become lighter and is finely woven with light, warm-sweet flowers and the cleanliness and freshness of musk and oakmoss. I find this more varied than HP and it maintains the tension of this special vanilla. Noble and velvety. No more almonds.
In conclusion, I find that G & S has a development that HP lacks.
And then there’s this beautiful, special bottle! The picture does not do it justice; it is elongated, open, lighter - not so compressed and dark as in the photo. Although the color of the perfume is authentic. The bottle is about the size of a teen's fist and with this great insert, it looks like an Indonesian paper cut. However, it is supposed to be an etching...
Guipure refers to a very special form of lace embroidery that is used or was used in haute couture, e.g., Prada. Here, the pattern is first embroidered onto the base fabric, which is then etched away. The result is delicate and special, as it looks like a painstakingly crafted bobbin lace applied to a web.
Truly beautiful! I won't part with my Guipure & Silk, and for all HP lovers - but also for anyone who isn’t completely convinced by HP and yet loves opulent orientals - it’s definitely an exciting test candidate.