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Top Review
43
Neukölln 26 - And where are the pukes?
The ELDO brand has worked extremely persistently to lose its bad image with me, and now it has almost done it.
It starts with the name of the brand. I don't like companies that consist of 3 1/2 words, I think it's rude to the customer to either talk your mouth off ("Have you heard of the new Etat Libre d'Orange?" - who talks like that?) or resort to dorky abbreviations like ELDO (Kinda reminds me of BRD, El Dorado and for some unknown reason Scrooge McDuck). Besides, Oranje Vrijstaat always makes me think of apartheid.
The problem continues with the names of the individual fragrances, which are often too hip for me ('Encens et Bubblegum') too long ('Fils de Dieu du Riz et des Agrumes', aka FDDDREDA), too deliberately risqué ('Putain des Palaces', i.e. Palace Whore) or just too stupid ('Hermann a mes cotes me paraissait une ombre').
And finally, I can do nothing with the promise to submit disgusting shocker fragrances, because I'm bourgeois enough to want to smell good - at least from stories, almost everyone knows the somehow smell of sperm, blood, pus and brain matter 'Secretions Magnifiques'.
I have to admit, though, that I've really enjoyed all three of the ELDOs I've tested so far (Vierges et Toreros, Fat Electrician and the aforementioned Son of God of Rice and Citrus). I also found them all more cuddly than scandalous. A bit sophisticated, yes, but on the whole mainstream compatible and not at all dissonant.
And now the Orange present a cologne (in the small print then also declared as 'Eau de Parfum', so a Cologne-EdP like the Gunpowder Cologne of Urban Scents reviewed by me four days ago), which really convinces me and elicits me the (albeit very scarce) 9.
Although of the typical cologne five-sound of lemon, bergamot, neroli, lavender and rosemary remains here only the lemon (at least in the officially declared ingredients), this cologne comes across as a knackered member of the Farina family. The kinship to classics like 4711 is absolutely unmistakable. This image is reinterpreted by loud small accent shifts (mandarin instead of bergamot, mint instead of rosemary, orange blossom instead of neroli, heavy flowers instead of lavender, and a fat, smacking base underneath).
This comes across as juicy, powerful, and richly luminous, with exciting fruity-herbaceous-sweet and even, from wherever, salty notes shining through. While I was still disparaging about the trend to make colognes more "modern and sensual" by adding musk (why does a cologne need to be modern, and why on earth sensual, if I want it to be sensual, I won't go for a cologne), with the Mugler colognes, which probably belong in the same vein, this modernisation has actually succeeded. Perhaps, since unlike Mugler the musk does not cloud and smear the image, but really only fuller and at most minimally softer can be.
To be added remains:
The 'list price' of this fragrance is 100 euros for 100 ml. That is despite the good quality a lot. Because 'cologne' keeps significantly longer than a traditional cologne, but only with very generous dosage and even then only very close to the skin. A halfway decent freshness radiation can be enjoyed, almost as with a 4711 or similar classics, only for a few minutes.
I found the fragrance so surprisingly good that I also took a closer look at the perfumer Alexandra Kosinski. She's quite prolific and apparently not under contract anywhere permanently, but freelance. She has composed fragrances for Playboy and Kylie Minogue as well as (two even) for Parfums de Marly. However, I am not aware of any other fragrance by her.
Top Notes 
Bergamot
Blood orange
Italian lemon
Mandarin orange Orpur®
Curly mint
Heart Notes 
Orange blossom
Magnolia
Jasmine
Base Notes 
Cedarwood
Musk
Patchouli Orpur®
KingPin
Emorandeira
Itchynose
