Byzantine Amber (Extrait de Parfum) by Francesca Bianchi

Byzantine Amber 2023 Extrait de Parfum

Mourant
03/09/2023 - 11:48 AM
36
Top Review
9Scent

Amber Wine in New Bottles

Yes, at Bianchi, they are once again pouring old wine into new bottles, but at least it's good wine. ;)

BYZANTINE AMBER reveals itself to me from the very start in its best light: Golden amber, slightly smoky, oily and luscious, kept citrusy. I don't particularly like the (piercing) smell of bergamot when isolated and used too dominantly; here it serves a subtle and skillful purpose, providing a clarity-enhancing glaze that prevents the fragrance (at least initially) from drifting into a collapsing sponginess (something that bothered me with previously tested Bianchi fragrances, except for the wonderfully hard, clearly contoured The Black Knight). Since I especially enjoy the opening, it seems advisable in such a case to primarily spray it on hair/clothing.
And I could swear, there's that obligatory iris butter from Bianchi again. ;) Perhaps it's a creamy leather note or the cinnamon powderiness combined with the geranium, or it could be due to the (overall) composition (of the resins). Be that as it may, it reminds one of other fragrances:
Statements have already mentioned the similarity to scents like "The Lover's Tale | Francesca Bianchi," "The Dark Side | Francesca Bianchi," "Under My Skin | Francesca Bianchi." None of the aforementioned completely captivated me. However, the amber note gives BYZANTINE AMBER the missing little something that I had not found in the others, which is why I prefer it more clearly.

After the (for my taste equipped with exactly the right buzzwords) press text, I had hoped for a bit more of the overall effect of the fragrance beyond the wonderful opening and I'm still not sure if I will change my mind about it and whether it can "dethrone" Ambra Aurea for me (and whether it even needs to, is questionable in both cases): I find BA not quite as opulent, decadent, and archaic as AA and as expected, which can also be an advantage depending on the occasion and taste.
If I were to criticize BA, it would be that as a concentrated resin-balm bomb, it becomes a bit too sweet and monotonous over time and that the leather (at least on me) doesn't really come through.

I have never found Bianchi fragrances to be particularly complex and refined, but rather fragmentary, rough, and coarse. This is not meant as a judgment. Sometimes one looks for and some seek exactly such things. BA fits into this style for me. A solid, beautiful fragrance, but one should not expect anything groundbreaking or can expect exactly what one is used to from Bianchi.

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With normal dosing, I am not overwhelmed by the sillage and longevity, although Bianchi's fragrances are notorious for their intensity. Here, in my opinion, there is both truth and misunderstanding/misjudgment [/misuse? ;)] present: Bianchi's fragrances are indeed extraits (hence intense), but should be dosed very sparingly for that very reason, as explicitly advised in the accompanying texts on the official site. Less is definitely more here (which is why I appreciate the small 30 ml bottles). Whether one is overwhelmed or not, I believe one has control over that here. ;)
For those for whom the perfumes are still too intense but remain interesting: By the way, there are also Sublime Oil versions of some of the brand's fragrances that have lower concentrations than the perfumes. Very accommodating. ;)
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36 Comments
MourantMourant 2 years ago
Update: I'm liking it more and more. I don't find it as sweet in the dry down as I did at first, and the leather I was missing seems to be coming through better...
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Camey5000Camey5000 2 years ago
A very helpful classification, and the references are great too. The primal essence is beautifully captured in the scent and points the way to Ambra Aurea.
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ZerotoninZerotonin 2 years ago
I definitely need to test that! I wouldn't mind the iris butter either; I liked it in the other Bianchis as well :-) Sounds really nice again!
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MourantMourant 2 years ago
I think Angel's Dust is quite similar to it as well; it smells to me like Byzantine Amber without the amber. ;)
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TtfortwoTtfortwo 2 years ago
Beautifully illustrated review, helpful context, everything done right. Quality perfume. Thank you.
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MourantMourant 2 years ago
1
With such a sweet compliment from you, the day can start off well. Thank you! 🍷
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UntermWertUntermWert 2 years ago
Very informative review. I'm really looking forward to the scent, as I love all three reference fragrances and they are in my collection. Maybe this one will even turn out to be suitable for everyday wear with a light application. Thank you so much, this could really be something for me.
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MourantMourant 2 years ago
Thank you. Then you’d probably like it. I’d say it’s suitable for everyday wear, and I find the intensity to be rather moderate.
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NuiWhakakoreNuiWhakakore 2 years ago
This old wine sounds good, although I'm not yet a real Bianchi expert. Let's see, at least my interest is piqued...
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MourantMourant 2 years ago
I've only tested about half of the Bianchi fragrances so far, but I would say this one is a pretty good "all-rounder" in the portfolio. Some have even called it a "best of." However, I have concerns because of your birch tar "allergy." ;) It's not listed, but you might be able to smell it.
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FriesinFriesin 2 years ago
1
"Butter with the Bianchis," as they say in the vernacular ;-)
After the last two scents that I found (for me) unpleasant, I'm thrilled with BA...
and I have leather, ha!
Great review, by the way.
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MourantMourant 2 years ago
Ah, that's right! They say: The Biachtze doesn't let the butter or something like that...
I’ll gladly skip the UNSPOKEN MUSK. ;) I’d like to try the LIBERTINE NEROLI.
I'm a bit envious; maybe I'll find the leather or it will find me!
Thanks!
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MarieposaMarieposa 2 years ago
I'm a bit skeptical about Bianchi, but what you’re saying sounds interesting.
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MourantMourant 2 years ago
Skepticism is always appropriate! ;)
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FrauKirscheFrauKirsche 2 years ago
I really liked it, especially because it became like a big, enveloping blanket over time...
**Ambra Aurea** is still in the lead. I’d love to compare them directly again.
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MourantMourant 2 years ago
I think so too. Unfortunately, I only have a drop left in my AMBRA AUREA sample and I'll be using it up soon since it's getting quite oily. I'll enjoy it one last time and then see if/how much I’ll miss it.
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ViolettViolett 2 years ago
Well described! I love the Baptême Ambré by Phaedon, which has very similar scent notes. I can totally imagine this combo in the Bianchi style with iris butter, leather, and more! I'm looking forward to testing it.
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MourantMourant 2 years ago
1
The Baptême Ambré. It turns into Byzantine Amber when it indulges in a sinful life of excess. ;))
On the other hand, when it pulls itself together and cleans up, the picture can change too.
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ViolettViolett 2 years ago
😂 Which one is the before model?!
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MourantMourant 2 years ago
1
I also found Baptême Ambré to be amazing. This one, as you can imagine with Bianchi, feels dirtier and resinous. B.A. and B.A., you could call them before and after pictures of each other. ;))
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AxiomaticAxiomatic 2 years ago
Oh, I see there's supposed to be iris butter here, and I can already guess where this is headed.
But I'm still very curious about the scent.
Very, very well and thoroughly described!
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TheBladi11TheBladi11 2 years ago
I can definitely smell the typical fatty iris butter, but only after the smoke settles a bit. I don't pick up the geranium as a substitute for rose at all, or my skin completely absorbs it. Very good reminiscences that I can relate to, and it's actually the first one I can spray 2-3 times without it becoming too much for me... despite the Extrait (and more dabbing than spraying), my first TdS will probably run out this year.
Great review! :)
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TheBladi11TheBladi11 2 years ago
My favorite Bianchi (check out my Top 10) or under my State, I've created a little personal Bianchi ranking, and it's in second place. But: I don't need this one until my bunker bottle of The Dark Side is empty, and then maybe just a leftover bottle with ~20ml ;)
You're right, it's definitely lighter than the other extraits, at least 15-20% S & H on my skin... :)
A "sprayable" Bianchi... you can even go for 3-4 sprays when going out, for example.
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MourantMourant 2 years ago
1
I also find it quite moderate so far. One more spray wouldn't hurt.^^
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MourantMourant 2 years ago
1
Thanks! I feel the same way, the iris butter or "iris butter" is less pronounced at the start and only reveals itself later. I haven't really noticed the rose (geranium) so far either...
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BosworthBosworth 2 years ago
Very well described. I'm afraid I'm going to like it.
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FloydFloyd 2 years ago
It's coming to me soon as well. Sounds good!
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VinyldatesVinyldates 2 years ago
I like all the reference scents and I'm really excited about BA :)
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MourantMourant 2 years ago
You should at least like it.
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SeejungfrauSeejungfrau 2 years ago
1
With iris butter, you're definitely on the right track.
The scent is really well done this time. After the last ones were above average but not really new creations.
The sublime oils are great. They replace the fragrance...
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SeejungfrauSeejungfrau 2 years ago
1
That's true indeed :))
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MourantMourant 2 years ago
1
A Bianchi just can't resist the buttering up. ;)
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PollitaPollita 2 years ago
It probably wouldn't be mine, as I don't like the reference scents. However, I do enjoy Lost in Heaven. Maybe someday.
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MourantMourant 2 years ago
It's hard to judge, since LOST IN HEAVEN still reminds me a lot of THE LOVER'S TALE, which you don't like at all. :D
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MonMedusaMonMedusa 2 years ago
I can imagine what to expect, but I'm looking forward to it :)
Bianchis that I like, plus salty amber... should work!
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MourantMourant 2 years ago
I also think the view is nice. ;)
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