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NosyCat
2
Not earth-shattering, but a solid performance
If you expect to have a mind blowing olfactive experience, prepare to be disappointed. ‘Damier’, the latest addition to the house of Les Bains Guerbois is inspired by the premises of this Parisian Hotel/Spa/Nightclub. Like so many other niche fragrance brands these days, Les Bains Guerbois hire big names within the perfume industry to create scents that are inspired by the atmosphere and the history of the place - and the result is of the highest quality of course, but rarely truly unique. It doesn’t feels like something one has never smelt before; it is often vaguely or even openly reminiscent of another fragrance from a different niche brand - as in this case.
The perfume opens with a a spicy pepper note, which instantly reminds me of CDG‘s ‘Blackpepper’, but dryer, with less sweetness. Then the cedar wood enters and remains the dominant note until the end. Softened by some floral accord in the middle and gently paired with sandalwood ‘Damier’ is a fairly straightforward woody fragrance - which can be both a strength and a weakness. It is more elegant and better balanced than the more aggressive ‘Blackpepper’; with white musk and patchouli smoothing the edges - but lacking the fresher, herbal notes of Ditpyqye’s ‘Tam Dao’. It also reminded me of ‘Cedarwood’ by The Merchant of Venice, which is darker, warmer and heavier - whereas ‘Damier’ has a less overpowering projection. This quality makes it more universal; I can imagine wearing it as an occasion scent, as well as everyday to work (provided this type of perfume is your thing). Woody fragrances tend to work better during colder months of the year, as some notes can become sickeningly heavy in summer - but I have a feeling it wouldn’t be a problem for ‘Damier’; it is dry, just like a sauna, where the smell of wood doesn’t disturb.
In terms of longevity - I think you can expect about 5-6 hours wear out of it, but of course it does dry down after about two or three and becomes more delicate (which can also be an advantage).
If you - like me - like woody fragrances, but are put off by the excessive use of sandalwood or (even worse) oud in lots of perfumes, then by all means give ‘Damier’ a try. Chances are it won’t leave you speechless, but it is a well-crafted, lean and neat scent. It doesn’t surprise, but it really delivers what it promises.
Now, is it worth the money? Personally I think there are more interesting fragrances out there - considering the abundance of brands - the aforementioned ‘Tam Dao’ being one of them or Frederic Malle’s ‘French Lover’, which is a similarly dry scent, but greener and ultimately richer than ‘Damier’ - both of those more or less the same price.
Top Notes 
Aldehydes
Black pepper
Pink pepper
Heart Notes 
Jasmine
Milk
Base Notes 
Patchouli
Sandalwood
Virginia cedar
White musk
Metaphysical
