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Chypre or not Chypre, that is the question…
Françis Coty created his fragrance "Chypre" in 1917, which became the namesake of an entire genre of perfumes: A fresh top note, a floral heart, and a mossy-woody, warm base. The ingredients are mostly found in the Mediterranean region, hence the name "Chypre" ("Cyprus").
Almost a decade earlier, the now hardly known perfumer Godet developed a fragrance of the same name. So is this a Chypre or not? When I first applied it, I really had to ask myself that.
Discovered almost by chance, I was intrigued by this delicate and extraordinary bottle that a seller was offering abroad in Europe. Still sealed, unopened, even in the original box. I impulsively bought it blind as a reward for far too much work lately and had to wait a while for my little treasure.
Then I finally had it in my hand: A bottle that, despite its delicacy, is a real delight to hold, with a glass stopper adorned at the top with the "G" for the Godet perfume house. Not a Baccarat bottle, I would assume, but made of glass, which feels like it was filled in the 1940s. Could that be? It is said that the Godet perfume house had to close during the economic crisis at the end of the 1920s? Hm, historical research for the interested may clarify this in the future...
Despite all persistence, the glass stopper of my new acquisition eventually had to give in to my attempts to open it after about five hours. A somewhat alcoholic scent greeted me, not untypical for very old fragrances that have bergamot in the top note. The bottle had been sealed for decades, and a bit of air contributed to a somewhat different development.
Upon application, a distinct bergamot note developed, which quickly transitioned into a floral-creamy heart note. Rose and jasmine perhaps? For a moment, I had the impression that a clove would show itself, but I am not sure. Very quickly, a creamy, balsamic note mixes in. Benzoin has been mentioned in other comments/statements, which could fit. Perhaps also a bit of amber and a touch of incense that gives the heart note a lot of spice. Once, I briefly had the impression of leather, but only for a very short time. Could it be sandalwood, which can sometimes have a leathery effect in very old vintage scents? At the same time, from the very beginning, a stronger mossy note resonates, which remains as a base for hours. However, it is not a dominant note, but calm and balanced.
Actually, I do not like Chypre fragrances: The oak moss is usually far too dominant for me and does not suit me at all.
Recently, I reviewed the Chyprette by A. Neuffer and was surprised by the naturalness of the oak moss used there; "the first Chypre that I like," I had formulated it.
I can no longer maintain this statement: "Chypre" by Godet is undoubtedly a small masterpiece: As a chance discovery and blind purchase, it is a bullseye: It is a quiet fragrance, a calm and relaxed, and also relaxing scent. Not intrusive, but discreet and reserved, a fragrance for both genders.
Almost a decade earlier, the now hardly known perfumer Godet developed a fragrance of the same name. So is this a Chypre or not? When I first applied it, I really had to ask myself that.
Discovered almost by chance, I was intrigued by this delicate and extraordinary bottle that a seller was offering abroad in Europe. Still sealed, unopened, even in the original box. I impulsively bought it blind as a reward for far too much work lately and had to wait a while for my little treasure.
Then I finally had it in my hand: A bottle that, despite its delicacy, is a real delight to hold, with a glass stopper adorned at the top with the "G" for the Godet perfume house. Not a Baccarat bottle, I would assume, but made of glass, which feels like it was filled in the 1940s. Could that be? It is said that the Godet perfume house had to close during the economic crisis at the end of the 1920s? Hm, historical research for the interested may clarify this in the future...
Despite all persistence, the glass stopper of my new acquisition eventually had to give in to my attempts to open it after about five hours. A somewhat alcoholic scent greeted me, not untypical for very old fragrances that have bergamot in the top note. The bottle had been sealed for decades, and a bit of air contributed to a somewhat different development.
Upon application, a distinct bergamot note developed, which quickly transitioned into a floral-creamy heart note. Rose and jasmine perhaps? For a moment, I had the impression that a clove would show itself, but I am not sure. Very quickly, a creamy, balsamic note mixes in. Benzoin has been mentioned in other comments/statements, which could fit. Perhaps also a bit of amber and a touch of incense that gives the heart note a lot of spice. Once, I briefly had the impression of leather, but only for a very short time. Could it be sandalwood, which can sometimes have a leathery effect in very old vintage scents? At the same time, from the very beginning, a stronger mossy note resonates, which remains as a base for hours. However, it is not a dominant note, but calm and balanced.
Actually, I do not like Chypre fragrances: The oak moss is usually far too dominant for me and does not suit me at all.
Recently, I reviewed the Chyprette by A. Neuffer and was surprised by the naturalness of the oak moss used there; "the first Chypre that I like," I had formulated it.
I can no longer maintain this statement: "Chypre" by Godet is undoubtedly a small masterpiece: As a chance discovery and blind purchase, it is a bullseye: It is a quiet fragrance, a calm and relaxed, and also relaxing scent. Not intrusive, but discreet and reserved, a fragrance for both genders.
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Yatagan
