Phũl-Nãnã Grossmith 1891 Eau de Parfum

I am reviewing this based on a tiny sample that was sent to me in a split recently.

On me this starts very warm - slightly heavy smell of burning incense, laced with powder and an almost unnoticeable sweetness. It bears an uncanny resemblance to Indian temples and the incense that they would burn all day long, which clings to your body and never quite leaves.

Stopping to think and disconnect myself from the memory of temples, I smell a spicy floral with a hint of zest, on a background of benzoin and resins. I get ylangylang in later stages with what seems to be an almost boozy twist, interestingly. The warm powder just lasts throughout, but I think it feels a tad lighter after a couple of hours.

I especially liked the end where opoponax (which I think is like a myrrh) comes through more, because it is more creamy with a dash of sweetness to lighten things up just a tiny bit.

This just did not work for me. It's not ugly by any means, but I couldn't rid myself of the association to Indian temples, and I'm not sure I want to smell like that. That just goes to show how well done it is as an insence-y, resinous frag (IMHO), which is also kind of floral, zesty, and powdery. A shapeshifter, to some extent.

Definitely worth a try if you like deeper fragrances. I am also of opinion that this might wear differently in different seasons. Is this a strictly feminine scent? Probably not, although it is prominently feminine at times when the smoke-laced floral really comes through.

Sillage was good throughout, longevity was so-so, about 4 hours on me.

Wow! This was £145 for 50 ml as at October 2016. As at May 2018 it is £185 for 50 ml. That is sure one hefty price hike (roughly 28%). Wish my income had gone up by 28% in just over a year and a half. Bet it's been re-formulated (sour grapes).
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Phul Nana has been calling me for three years but I can't bring myself to buy it. Although I could buy it I have a psychological block shelling out more than £100 (this is £145 for 50 ml). I try to talk myself into it by saying, 'what's the point of having this, this, and this, when you really want that?' but no, I am not open to reason.

Of course, my sample from 2012 is likely to be a different version from 2016 so I would have to try it again. Perhaps I will do that and see what I think.

Phul Nana reminds me of halcyon summer days; the hot sun streaming through starched cotton lace at the windows; the scent of the garden in full bloom dancing on the breeze.

It dries to a very natural powder (not of the baby powder kind); keeps bright with crushed geranium leaf as an almost rosy joss-stick weaves its magic; woods and patchouli far in the background giving great depth.

Sometimes floral, sometimes creamy, mostly warm rosy joss-stick and geranium, always sublime, Phul Nana is a strong long lasting perfume with low to moderate projection and silage - the epitome of elegant luxury.
Sample decant December 2012

Baroque and beguiling, Phul - Nana opens with the peppery verdure of geranium and sweet, buttery ylang-ylang, with just a tint of neroli like a glint of light. There is also a notable candied orange in the early stages of its development, while a medicinal herbal element feels a bit wintergreen. I would compare its timbre to that of an English horn, simultaneously sharp, buzzy, but deep and reverberant. It has an incandescent, arresting feel, making me stop and ponder while wearing it. There are two things: where I am, and where fragrance takes me. This is all the latter, this all "elsewhere," anything other than the here and now, almost as if I am getting flashbacks of memories from past lives lived.

The heart of Phul - Nana is full of garnet opoponax, warm, bittersweet, softened just somewhat with benzoin and tonka, anchoring the piquant floral heart in its illuminated cloisters, trails of warm spice and whispers of woods. Throughout all of this, what's most notable is its restraint. Be that as it may, there is a corporeal undercurrent further into its dry down, just the slightest utterance of lustful profanity, ensuring that this is not entirely candied and dandy. Overall, I feel pretty confident that this is faithful to the original formulation as it can be given modern restrictions, and while I by no means want to suggest that its essential to the vintage lover, it would behoove a diehard to at least sample it to see if it moves them in much the say way as it does me.

Once upon a time, a long, long time ago, I was in Mauritius. The local population is mostly made up of Indians who have settled there. If you stay in one of the small towns, you really feel as if you are in India. Women in beautiful saris dominate the cityscape. There are special shops that sell these magnificent and vibrant fabrics. Upon entering one of these shops, you are almost blinded by the flood of colors. But it is not the loud and screaming fabrics that are the most precious. Quite the opposite is true. It is the silky-matte and muted colors that are the most valuable and would befit a Maharani. The price you can pay for such an apparently unremarkable sari fabric is considerable. Furthermore, I had the great honor of being taken to a Hindu temple deep in the interior of the island.

The temple was located on a small mountain. As I entered the temple, an incredibly beautiful scent greeted me. It became more intense the closer I got to the hall. What I then saw resembled more of a movie set than a prayer hall. At the end of the small hall sat she. Kali, the black goddess of death, rage, and renewal. She was completely made of black ebony and about five meters tall. Adorned from head to toe with garlands of flowers placed around her neck and at her feet, a sea of white flowers surrounded her. Small bundles of incense sticks burned everywhere. The room was filled with spicy, resinous, and creamy scents. The fragrance of sandalwood, patchouli, and various spices permeated the air, blending with the flowers into something uniquely whole. Hours after this visit, my clothes still smelled of it, even though I had only been inside the temple for a few minutes. I longed to experience that unique afterglow again. Phul-Nana is a tribute to the beauty of India and for me the end of a long search. This perfume smells exactly like my clothes did after the visit to the temple,....unique!

Phul-Nana
Phul-Nana is akin to the art of wrapping a Maharani in a noble and magnificent sari. Imagine fine and precious layers of fabric in muted and broken tones being placed on bare skin scented with neroli. A silky-soft tuberose that almost seems pulverized settles on the skin. Not heavy and strong at all, but as if it has become the finest powder that envelops the skin. The scent lingers in this state like soft wax on the skin until additional layers of fabric come in to refine it. Phul-Nana sinks deeper into its base of dry and dusty tones. The most symbolic note of India, patchouli, emerges with layers of matte-spicy vanilla and fine-bitter tonka. Everything is held together by a delicate veil of creamy-soft benzoin and gently melting opoponax. Noble (fragrance) materials envelop the body like that of a Maharani!

Conclusion
The light that Phul-Nana emits is not glaring and extremely bright. It is rather soft and dim, like the light of an ancient and dirty oil lantern. The perfume seems to float like the finest floral-spicy powder particles in the air. Phul-Nana has something lush, old, and historical in its aura, without being overwhelming. It has a well-perceptible sillage that never appears intrusive and a very good longevity of 8 to 12 hours. The perfume is well-suited for both genders, unless one fears tuberose or feels too young for this masterpiece. Phul-Nana is like a precious, softly shimmering sari fabric or like the wind blowing through a Hindu temple, carrying all the magnificent scents with it. That I like Phul-Nana should be very clear after recounting my experiences. I find it simply fairy-tale beautiful!

By the way, the reason why Hindus pray to such an apparently frightening goddess like Kaali Maa is that in Hindu belief, she is one of the few goddesses who can fulfill wishes.

With Phul-Nana, she has finally fulfilled mine!

or

"Phul-Nana for the wedding day"

When I read the ten comments about Phul-Nana, everything that needs to be said about this
extraordinary fragrance is already covered.

And yet, I have gained very personal impressions, discovered sides of myself that were hidden, slumbering, unique.

This summer, I was able to truly enjoy. Finally, it was really warm. The sun warmed me to the bone, to the heart.

In August, we celebrate our wedding anniversary, and of course, a perfume should delight my heart and remind me of this day for a long time.

In the days leading up to the vacation, I indulged in various tests of my "favorite scents," and my husband was to make the final decision.

Right on our wedding day, the beautiful package arrived.
Like a small child, I unwrapped it, holding the heavy dark blue box reverently in my hands. I felt quite ceremonial when I then sprayed Phul-Nana.

We spent that evening in the garden.
The deck chairs set up among roses and clematis, lavender, hydrangeas, and honeysuckle, we gazed at the starry sky.
That alone would have been wonderful, but I was offered so much more.
It was the night of shooting stars!
So we sat cuddled up together, enveloped in a fine mist of Phul-Nana, looking up at the sky.
Far away from the city in our garden, no light disturbed the beautiful night.
Now and then, the chirping of crickets and the soft rustling of leaves - otherwise only silence.
I couldn't wish for anything more while watching the many shooting stars; I was already blissfully content.
As a small particle of this vast universe, I looked up in awe and silence, pressed the warm, secure hand at my side, and was enchanted.

Even when I first tested Phul-Nana, I was smitten. We fit together; I knew that right away.
Phul-Nana is something very special; a scent from another world.
Every time, I felt like a queen, a goddess. Phul-Nana has enchanted me.

The almost sparkling neroli-orange opening promises great things; not fruity or light, rather dreamy, dignified, different.
"Old-fashioned" I have also read - yes, it could also be old-fashioned!

The tuberose suits me. I have to say it like that. I have always liked tuberose on myself; it has always been that way. The geranium is also pleasing.
The delicate sandalwood note has been present all along, becoming stronger, blending with vanilla, patchouli, and cedarwood.
It is so beautiful that I feel light-footed, floating, enveloped and secure. Phul-Nana elevates.
I can cuddle into this wonderful blend for a long time, and recently a very special note has been added - a wonderful scent on a beautiful starry night in summer.

There are no more wishes, no more longing - there is only reverence and gratitude.