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Controversy in the summer hole
Mémoire d'une Odeur seems to be perceived very differently if you look at the statements of today so.
Contra: There is talk of glue with 3 letters back in the tube should, scorched plastic, moldy wood ... and then even treated with wood varnish.
Pro: beautiful bottle, Romatik, melancholy, sensuality, Kamillig-furnierholzig, very light and different.
This is also expressed in the ratings from 0 - 10.0 ... everything there. I have not experienced such a thing here for a long time.
Lately, the perfumer of this fragrance - Alberto Morillas - often got bad reviews for his fragrances as soon as his name came into play.
But if you take the trouble and look at his œuvre
- 371 fragrances with an average rating of 7.3 for well-known brands such as Armani, Bulgari, Carolina Herrera, YSL and many others -
one notes that yet some very well-known and successful fragrances were developed by him (sometimes with others in cooperation). Most are mainstreamers who need to earn profit with sales in the broad mass. As is generally known, these are provided with a fixed cost framework for fragrance, bottle, packaging and especially for marketing. Since one remains rather on the commercially safe side and for unusual smells then often the courage is missing.
And as has MitParfumo Stulle on this subject so aptly noted: Mr. M. is then just an artist who also likes to earn money - this is not honorable (artists also like to eat warm!) .
There are of him but also some exciting fragrances and indeed where he has certainly been given freedom. I think of Kilian, the expensive Bulgari series, Chopard and also my favorite of his, Opus VII/Amouage.
The latest Gucci Guilty releases for the gentlemen of Alberto Morillas have softened my previously also rather negative opinion. I find them bold and also successful, especially Gucci Guilty Absolute and also Gucci Guilty Cologne pour Homme.
The new fragrance - Mémoire d'une Odeur - is also one of them. Provided with a promotional film in which a lot of strange people jump around a dreamlike beautiful castle, make fire and other strange things ... the message is of course not to understand: In my opinion, it is about an 80/90s revival fragrance, to me at the first test immediately came 'Bitter Sweet Symphony' by The Verve
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1lyu1KKwC74
or even the movie Call Me By Your Name - Elio
in mind. This fragrance also has somehow something very true to life and alive in itself: sad and happy, soft and hard, bitter and sweet.
The pyramid given here is incomplete, according to my nose. Mémoire d'une Odeur starts with a bitter-tart chamomile note that is quickly underlaid by honeyed coral jasmine flowers (weeping tree), some lavender is probably also present. The fragrance gets its lightness and clarity from the abundant use of slightly soapy musk, the base is creamy sandalwood and fresh cedar, an almost unsweet vanilla gives the counterpoint.
Mémoire d'une Odeur lies somewhere between Comme des Garçons perfume, Гоша Рубчинский Gosha Rubchinskiy and Fougère Royale Houbigant (2010) ... this as a rough guide. The fragrance is very idiosyncratic and I can't get it into the appropriate words. But I think that some of the male Parfumos should know these fragrances, for the ladies remains then only - if they do not know the fragrances - with interest a heroic self-test since I do not know myself (well) with (comparable) women's fragrances. Sorry!
For me, the composition of Mémoire d'une Odeur - as well as the other two Gucci fragrances mentioned - times a bold step away from the usual mainstream monotony despite the certainly also here stringent specifications.
Durability and sillage: 5 - 6 hours and medium
Edit: Corrected down, from the tester had the fragrance a better H/S than from my bottle (2 test runs)
Genre: Comme 'Comme des Garçons' Odeurs (pun!)
For whom: gentlemen and ladies who enjoy unusual fragrances
When: Actually, always - but from 25 ° upwards, it becomes smoother and the durability and sillage are much better!
Alternatives: Alternativeless ;-)
Addendum:
At the Fragrance Foundation was 2020 fragrance of the year in the category Universal Prestige
Gucci Mémoire d'une Odeur Eau de Parfum
COTY
Firmenich
Perfume: Alberto Morillas
https://fragrance.org/awards/
Contra: There is talk of glue with 3 letters back in the tube should, scorched plastic, moldy wood ... and then even treated with wood varnish.
Pro: beautiful bottle, Romatik, melancholy, sensuality, Kamillig-furnierholzig, very light and different.
This is also expressed in the ratings from 0 - 10.0 ... everything there. I have not experienced such a thing here for a long time.
Lately, the perfumer of this fragrance - Alberto Morillas - often got bad reviews for his fragrances as soon as his name came into play.
But if you take the trouble and look at his œuvre
- 371 fragrances with an average rating of 7.3 for well-known brands such as Armani, Bulgari, Carolina Herrera, YSL and many others -
one notes that yet some very well-known and successful fragrances were developed by him (sometimes with others in cooperation). Most are mainstreamers who need to earn profit with sales in the broad mass. As is generally known, these are provided with a fixed cost framework for fragrance, bottle, packaging and especially for marketing. Since one remains rather on the commercially safe side and for unusual smells then often the courage is missing.
And as has MitParfumo Stulle on this subject so aptly noted: Mr. M. is then just an artist who also likes to earn money - this is not honorable (artists also like to eat warm!) .
There are of him but also some exciting fragrances and indeed where he has certainly been given freedom. I think of Kilian, the expensive Bulgari series, Chopard and also my favorite of his, Opus VII/Amouage.
The latest Gucci Guilty releases for the gentlemen of Alberto Morillas have softened my previously also rather negative opinion. I find them bold and also successful, especially Gucci Guilty Absolute and also Gucci Guilty Cologne pour Homme.
The new fragrance - Mémoire d'une Odeur - is also one of them. Provided with a promotional film in which a lot of strange people jump around a dreamlike beautiful castle, make fire and other strange things ... the message is of course not to understand: In my opinion, it is about an 80/90s revival fragrance, to me at the first test immediately came 'Bitter Sweet Symphony' by The Verve
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1lyu1KKwC74
or even the movie Call Me By Your Name - Elio
in mind. This fragrance also has somehow something very true to life and alive in itself: sad and happy, soft and hard, bitter and sweet.
The pyramid given here is incomplete, according to my nose. Mémoire d'une Odeur starts with a bitter-tart chamomile note that is quickly underlaid by honeyed coral jasmine flowers (weeping tree), some lavender is probably also present. The fragrance gets its lightness and clarity from the abundant use of slightly soapy musk, the base is creamy sandalwood and fresh cedar, an almost unsweet vanilla gives the counterpoint.
Mémoire d'une Odeur lies somewhere between Comme des Garçons perfume, Гоша Рубчинский Gosha Rubchinskiy and Fougère Royale Houbigant (2010) ... this as a rough guide. The fragrance is very idiosyncratic and I can't get it into the appropriate words. But I think that some of the male Parfumos should know these fragrances, for the ladies remains then only - if they do not know the fragrances - with interest a heroic self-test since I do not know myself (well) with (comparable) women's fragrances. Sorry!
For me, the composition of Mémoire d'une Odeur - as well as the other two Gucci fragrances mentioned - times a bold step away from the usual mainstream monotony despite the certainly also here stringent specifications.
Durability and sillage: 5 - 6 hours and medium
Edit: Corrected down, from the tester had the fragrance a better H/S than from my bottle (2 test runs)
Genre: Comme 'Comme des Garçons' Odeurs (pun!)
For whom: gentlemen and ladies who enjoy unusual fragrances
When: Actually, always - but from 25 ° upwards, it becomes smoother and the durability and sillage are much better!
Alternatives: Alternativeless ;-)
Addendum:
At the Fragrance Foundation was 2020 fragrance of the year in the category Universal Prestige
Gucci Mémoire d'une Odeur Eau de Parfum
COTY
Firmenich
Perfume: Alberto Morillas
https://fragrance.org/awards/
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