Multiple Rouge Humięcki & Graef 2008
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nature morte
Multiple Rouge starts as a successful tightrope walk between functional perfumery - the branch that deals with the design of how household and cleaning products smell - and 'haute' perfumery of the cosmetics industry. Imagine, right off the bat, a 'fruity, berry' scrubbing product, but one that has been infused with the very finest fragrances and is as efficient as it is delicate. Multiple Rouge, which as noted below could very well be called Multiple Jaune, seemingly effortlessly combines ingredients that are otherwise always well separated from each other: central for me is a combination of immortelle and something aniseed-like, ozonic, like floralozone, and a fruity/berry component that is hard to place: raspberry-blackberry, red apple and many unknowns. The unusual Immortelle / Ozone+ combination in particular may be the key to Multiple Rouge's - as it progresses - especially on the skin, the Immortelle aspect becomes stronger, and develops surprisingly naturally, much like when dried Helichrysium leaves are crushed between the fingers - all of this wholly un-sweet, and the fruity/berry aspect models strongly enough, reminiscent of the intensities that distinguish the fragrance to begin with. On fabric and paper, all of the fragrance's characters remain well intact for a very long time, but on skin, a development sets in on the helichrysium portion. Great.
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