Where there is light, there is also darkness. A Conditio sine qua non, an indispensable prerequisite.
Jacomo, this dark Jacob beyond a lentil dish, the heavenly ladder and the stone peace column, is said to have wrestled with celestial and human beings.
The scent is powerful, to say the least.
Christian Mathieu offers an idiosyncratic composition.
I will settle for the slightly altered version from 2011, as it has replaced the original.
To get straight to the point, the current fragrance has a more animalistic tone. Otherwise, it is as dark as usual.
The opening of the fragrance caused a sensation in 1980. Not a single hesperid, no lightness.
Galbanum and cardamom - I suspect the harsh, sexual, black subspecies - smoke in a rough manner. Very distinctive and masculine. Cumin adds a slightly animalistic spice but doesn't sweat too much. Here it is, the battle-scarred body, battered and scarred.
The only and necessary source of light is provided by the solid lavender. But it is an ultraviolet light that envelops the body astrally.
A play of shadows. The harsh black contours reach a state of violet floating.
The body is clothed in black leather, which, well-tanned and rounded, gives a striking figure, quite tailored.
And now an unusually exciting counterpoint begins to pull in the opposite direction, a true feat of strength.
Oakmoss is lightly spiced with cinnamon, more clove, and variations of rose impressions - those gentle petals guarded by woody thorns. This bright, soapy, and solid response tends to the tormented body. Very gentle and unobtrusive, it heals the wounds and instills hope.
Between harsh severity and soothing love, a peculiar beauty emerged. Confidence and faith were tested and have been restored.
The finish is accompanied by a straightforward patchouli. Towards the end, it becomes increasingly present as a reminder of the earthly. The long night of struggle is over. The scarred body limps on the earth. But the soul has reached unimaginable heights.
The bottle underwent a successful redesign. Originally resembling a large lighter with a black body - the name printed in large white letters - and a white flip cap, the new design better showcases the fragrance theme.
No more flip cap, nor any prominent inscription.
Instead, a black column with a silver band and an embossed label. Very clear, elegantly shaped, and strong. The surface material is uniquely matte and soft, a delight for the sense of touch.
From the small spray head, you get a short but dense cloud of fragrance, very precise.
The longevity is well represented in the upper range, as the scent easily lasts a day.
Not so the sillage. The fragrance trail retreats to body proximity after the second hour but remains distinctly perceptible there. Just move, and you leave a subtle scent trail.
To convey my impression of the different versions more vividly, I invoke a thoughtful, often misunderstood swimmer.
He always tries to swim his laps as late as possible in the evening, so he is less disturbed. The darkness of the evening lends a mystical atmosphere to the pool lighting, the water glows invitingly.
It is these precious moments that bring him the most joy and contemplation.
Exhausted after training, he lets himself drift on the water's surface. The pitch-black night at the hall windows, the bluish light in the water, the gentle splashing of the wave movements, everything comes together as a whole. And he floats in it.
In the changing room, he remembers past evenings. Enveloped by Jacomo, his faithful companion, he becomes aware of the temporal dimension. The earthly space undergoes constant change.
His current black jacket is cut a bit differently, but the leather still feels familiar.
With black Ray-Bans, he used to enjoy himself on a dimly lit dance floor. There was something connecting with the others. They also wore sunglasses in the dark. And when the line fell, they raised their hands protectively in front of an invisible sun.
All day hiding from the sun, waiting for the golden one…
“Seconds” by Human League was never more mystical…
Today he also notices the change in Jacomo; it is more body-focused, has more foundation.
For sun protection, he has remained loyal to the brand; now it is a black aviator.
Thanks to AirPods, he can wirelessly fill the swimming hall with sound for a few minutes as the last bath guest, without anyone hearing it.
“PDA” by Interpol.
He sees his reflection in the dark window, the light of the pool outlines his contours spectrally.
Now that I also own the "newer" Jacomo, I can totally relate to your enthusiasm for it! I'm fascinated by it too! Thank you for this very "rich" and atmospheric description of this completely underrated masterpiece in the world of fragrances!
Excellent review. The scent captivated me back in the eighties - good to know that the reformulation hasn't completely missed the mark. It seems like reformulations often lose depth first. Devilish oakmoss, frightening musk compounds, forbidden candy-like notes, whatever is missing...
Your statement already got me hooked, and in detail even more so! Sounds like a very fine fragrance, but the "pretty fitted" part makes me wonder if I can still fit into it... ;-)
The floating, dancing scent, where the lavender turns on the light - I really enjoyed your review. Unfortunately, I only know the old version, but I’ll definitely give this one a try, especially for the left-leaning transcendence.
Strong, intense review - I'm not quite sure if I could handle the scent; I sometimes struggle with certain notes, but it's described so intriguingly. Definitely makes me curious.
A wonderful description of the scent Jacomo de Jacomo, from which I must admit that I'm just too much of a softie for this kind of perfume! I also prefer to stay away from smoke, shadows, and tortured bodies! Body-hugging and tailored scents are definitely not for me! But I love cheering from the sidelines with so much enthusiasm and share in the excitement with the enthusiasts!
Very fine scent description. My new Jacomo is a bit stronger and a little more chemical at first than the old one. But it becomes beautiful in the end.
I've never understood the whole sunglasses at night thing... ;-)).
As I already mentioned in response to your statement, I didn't get along well with the 2011 version. But hey, your top rating speaks for itself, and the description is fantastic.
Somehow, "Sunglasses at Night" is on my mind right now...
So beautifully described. I really enjoyed reading this. The only fragrance I know from Jacomo is Silences, and even though I'm not a Chypre woman, I liked it a lot.
What a poet you are!
I'm lost in memories...
"You are a past dinner, the last winner..."
That's probably him, Jacomo. Even though I don't know him... but who knows... maybe someday...
I just thought that the bottle looked different before.
I've never understood the whole sunglasses at night thing... ;-)).
Somehow, "Sunglasses at Night" is on my mind right now...