Ginepro Nero L'Erbolario 2016 Profumo

Ginepro Nero - a fragrance from the nature-oriented brand L'Erbolario based in Northern Italy - is for me an example that one can always find small, hidden treasures that sometimes fall (too) quickly into the category of "smelled that before" and then unfortunately often disappear under the radar. In the case of Ginepro Nero, this is especially true because the general fragrance direction it is often compared to was paved by a more or less iconic hype of the 2000s - Terre d'Hermès. However, I would like to take this opportunity to describe why I believe Ginepro Nero is a valuable interpretation of the theme with an interesting character.

If one wants to derive the Italian fragrance in the matte black bottle from more well-known scents, one can imagine Ginepro Nero in a triangle, with the outer points formed by Terre d'Hermès EdT, Terre d'Hermès Parfum, and Montale Red Vetiver. Generally, one could say that Ginepro Nero leans a bit more towards the Hermès side and is somewhat closer to Terre d'Hermès Parfum; however, that would not capture the full picture. When considering the fragrance in a more nuanced way, one can sense individual elements of Hermès' EdT, which are oriented towards the deeper base tone of the perfume and have been implemented with somewhat more moderate, rugged citrus notes that tend towards the Montale direction. After this very rough classification based on the mentioned references, I would like to emphasize that L'Erbolario has not produced a scented equivalent to Dolly the (clone) sheep, but rather an independent fragrance that shows it follows a well-founded concept and has been crafted with dedication.

For those unfamiliar with the aforementioned fragrances, the citrus notes should not be imagined as a typical, citrus-fresh scent. The bitter orange is flanked by grapefruit peel and forms a rather rugged citrus component in conjunction with bergamot, which is skillfully woven together with the other fragrance types. In the heart note, the juniper berry is particularly present, but without playing a solo role. The cedar seamlessly transitions into the overall woody composition, linking it to the natural vetiver in the base note, which, along with subtle oak moss and a hint of patchouli, adds green and earthy tones without coming across as musty. The image of deep, resinous notes is completed by elemi resin and benzoin, rounded off by moderately balanced pepper that contributes to the overall fresh-spicy elements.

Measured against a realistic expectation, the quality of the blend is remarkable. While L'Erbolario's Ginepro Nero does not quite reach what the high-priced niche can sometimes achieve, it clearly leaves behind the often somewhat loveless average performances that some renowned designers manage. For a fragrance in this segment, I am (very) positively surprised.

In the end, we have a dark-tinged, woody-citrus juniper scent with depth and character. Since the "dark" aspects of fragrances are often somewhat subjective and usually hard to describe, I try to express my associations as vividly as possible. To be precise, the somewhat darker aspects of Ginepro Nero do not strike me as oppressively dark, but rather like diffuse light in a slightly darker scene, laying like a protective cloak over the silhouettes of the surroundings. However, not cold and not in pale white, but rather a bit warmer and in soft tones of terracotta and brick red. I like it very much.

PS: Lastly, a hopefully objective note that the fragrance may not meet everyone's expectations. Demographically speaking, I would say it tends to be more of an Ü30 fragrance (though it could likely also be worn in one's mid-20s). Those who already have the complete Hermès portfolio on their shelf may not necessarily need Ginepro Nero, and those who could find nothing appealing in the fragrance direction and the general Terre d'Hermès "vibe" might be able to skip it.

Personally, I really like the fragrance :)