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03/24/2020
FvSpee
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FvSpee
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CoViD comments, sixth piece: beautiful fragrance in the wrong format.
For a while I had little desire for new fragrances and wanted to enjoy my favourites more; new tests I found stressful. About three to four weeks ago that turned. And when it became clear about a week or two ago that the whole public life would be shut down for a long time (and domestic quarantine can never be ruled out), I not only stocked up on new samples at the souk, but also turned some of the permanent guests on my wish list into mail-order items. So it happened that I finally ordered the wonderful (and very cheap) Malizia Uomo Vetyver EdT from the mail order company "dambiro" (my first order there), which specializes in Italian everyday products (cosmetics, among others). So that this fragrance would not have to travel alone, I packed this aftershave with it.
This was only partially a good idea, because Nazareno Gabrielli pour homme is a beautiful and interesting fragrance, but as an after shave it is out of place, a kind of soul in the wrong body. This Nazarene is a remarkably bitter-harsh, but also soft and full-bodied scent. The citric in the top note doesn't shine and glow (which is no criticism), it's tart and deeply embedded in the rather dark velvety heart and base notes. There we encounter quite heavy floral (rose geranium is characteristic here) and bitter herbalism (tarragon has its hat on); in the base, musk, tobacco and vetiver seem to stand for a spicy, heavy softness. The result is a very masculine, bold, almost voluptuous fragrance, too little green and fougèrig and radiant to be a classic powerhouse eighties, but it is a beautiful melancholic late of this fragrance era, an epigone in the very best sense.
However, such a fragrance also requires a depth of time, a course, a patience. That in itself is far too heavy for an aftershave, and the makers have apparently tried to repair this by radically reducing the concentration of fragrances. As a result, you now have this heavy, not exactly post-strasal refreshing scent feeling, but it breaks off so quickly that you can have breakfast after shaving and then, this rose geranium and the tobacco still in your head (but already no longer in your nose), you can safely put on "Cool Water" as a day scent. If one doses only slightly, one can skip breakfast. Then all you need is an espresso, brushing your teeth and possibly a mouthwash and the blue Davidoff is ready for action and meets fragrance-free skin again.
It doesn't work that way for me. With a light, tangy, fresh scent in the aftershave, like some of my favourite Czechs (let's say "Adam" for example), a 5-minute fragrance shave and then immediately the "right" perfume of the day works well, but not with such a Kaventsmann. That seems somehow disproportionate. So I am a little bit undecided what to do with this new acquisition. After all, I didn't spend much money and again learned something about a fine and interesting Italian brand that was unknown to me until then.
The name of the fragrance scores 6.5 points, which includes a substantial deduction for the fact that there is also a fragrance from the same house 'Nazareno pour homme', causing confusion. The bottle is actually quite beautiful, but the plastic headboard for splashing is not very convincing in terms of colour (olive green-grey) and workmanship (reminiscent of the Eastern Bloc).
I wish all readers of this commentary (representing all people) a happy heart and good health with all my heart.
This was only partially a good idea, because Nazareno Gabrielli pour homme is a beautiful and interesting fragrance, but as an after shave it is out of place, a kind of soul in the wrong body. This Nazarene is a remarkably bitter-harsh, but also soft and full-bodied scent. The citric in the top note doesn't shine and glow (which is no criticism), it's tart and deeply embedded in the rather dark velvety heart and base notes. There we encounter quite heavy floral (rose geranium is characteristic here) and bitter herbalism (tarragon has its hat on); in the base, musk, tobacco and vetiver seem to stand for a spicy, heavy softness. The result is a very masculine, bold, almost voluptuous fragrance, too little green and fougèrig and radiant to be a classic powerhouse eighties, but it is a beautiful melancholic late of this fragrance era, an epigone in the very best sense.
However, such a fragrance also requires a depth of time, a course, a patience. That in itself is far too heavy for an aftershave, and the makers have apparently tried to repair this by radically reducing the concentration of fragrances. As a result, you now have this heavy, not exactly post-strasal refreshing scent feeling, but it breaks off so quickly that you can have breakfast after shaving and then, this rose geranium and the tobacco still in your head (but already no longer in your nose), you can safely put on "Cool Water" as a day scent. If one doses only slightly, one can skip breakfast. Then all you need is an espresso, brushing your teeth and possibly a mouthwash and the blue Davidoff is ready for action and meets fragrance-free skin again.
It doesn't work that way for me. With a light, tangy, fresh scent in the aftershave, like some of my favourite Czechs (let's say "Adam" for example), a 5-minute fragrance shave and then immediately the "right" perfume of the day works well, but not with such a Kaventsmann. That seems somehow disproportionate. So I am a little bit undecided what to do with this new acquisition. After all, I didn't spend much money and again learned something about a fine and interesting Italian brand that was unknown to me until then.
The name of the fragrance scores 6.5 points, which includes a substantial deduction for the fact that there is also a fragrance from the same house 'Nazareno pour homme', causing confusion. The bottle is actually quite beautiful, but the plastic headboard for splashing is not very convincing in terms of colour (olive green-grey) and workmanship (reminiscent of the Eastern Bloc).
I wish all readers of this commentary (representing all people) a happy heart and good health with all my heart.
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