01/14/2022

Elysium
858 Reviews

Elysium
Top Review
14
That's How A Man Should Smell
Whenever I smell Azzaro pour Homme, I can't help but think about that beautiful and carefree summer of 1985. It brings back a lot of memories for me. I was a sophomore, and with four other classmates, we took a trip to northern Europe, touching the major cities of Austria, Germany, Holland, Norway, and France. We had bought a second-hand car, we could travel independently, stopping to sleep in youth hostels. Five guys, each with his own personality and his scent. I remember perfectly well that mine was Cacharel pour L'Homme Eau de Toilette, and the same of another guy who bought it after smelling on me. The other guys wore Drakkar Noir Eau de Toilette, Reporter Cologne, and Azzaro pour Homme Eau de Toilette . The friend who wore the latter always said it was the most remarkable men's perfume ever made. A cologne, once it's in your head, it's hard to forget, to the degree that its honorary status as a 'reference' aromatic fougère still feels appropriate. But for my taste, ApH seemed too opulent, demanding, and mature for our age. We were all too young, bold, and beautiful. Besides, he didn't seem suited to the hot summer weather. Imagine what intensity its original formulation could have had in the 80s. So, I bought it only a few years later, when I felt older and ready to wear it. And I continued to buy it, along with all the flankers; the boozy Azzaro pour Homme Intense is among my favourites, but the original must never miss in my wardrobe. It is the fragrance to own if you want to explore the current fougére category, this one updated with a twist of aniseed. The star anise nuance was, and is, what made this fougére so different from the other classic., with its lovely, refreshing and spicy liquorice notes.
The recent release I own likely keeps the original sparkle—the reformulation did not corrupt such a beauty—and opens with a fresh and woody explosion. That first splash reveals a vintage beast: a bright fougére with lavender and anise, followed by sage and cumin that sparkle above all else. I can recognize something spicy and citrusy, more lemon than bergamot, I would say. There seems to be a refreshing spice that lingers nicely, but it's a fresh spice, mint, and it's all tied in with the softness of lavender. For me, the star of this composition is the note of star anise. It is most prominent in the opening and always present until the end. While the anise fades a little after opening and the woods and leather become more prominent, it never disappears entirely. Cold, spicy and woody. However, it is clean on the top, with very smooth leather and a slight herbaceous note in its aroma.
Then, lavender, star anise and basil explode in a magical combination. A few minutes later, some floral notes appear, the magnificent iris, I think. There's also a soapy citrus blossom that seems to fill in all the cracks and crevices, while round oak moss rises from the bottom, adding a retro density. It's so layered that it's difficult to distinguish some notes, but lavender and oakmoss are the most prominent, which gives it this kind of almost screaming aroma, a kind of classic barber's soapiness. Not a patchouli bomb; the dirty grass is tamed and shares a core with creamy sandalwood and dried cedar. Instead, the resinous juniper berries and cardamom pods have huge spicy and balsamic facets.
In the drying phase, it projects a musky, elegant and timeless warmth that embodies the perfection of the perfume and goes straight to the masculine character made of roots, leaves, and resins. Earthy vetiver is another keynote; very well done here. Bitter drops of leather and oakmoss surround me. Well, it's a pleasant bitterness to counter the sweetness that I sometimes like but rarely like. And it is precisely that oily sweetness that made the original version annoying to my nose. I also get some talc notes, perhaps from coumarins and iris root. Although chemical oakmoss is still robust and observable.
In my humble opinion, the modern version of Azzaro pour Homme Eau de Toilette, if not identical, is very similar to the original. Still strong, spicy, soapy, but masculine. The sillage is now moderate, and the longevity is above expectations. It is no longer a heavy cologne, not like the original, but you don't have to use a lot of it either, because especially at the beginning, it might annoy you. It does not turn off after a few hours but continues silently for the rest of the day, especially on clothing. Honestly, I wear it best in the fall months, as its woody and aromatic aroma suits that time of year well. Just avoid extreme heat and humidity. What to say? For me, it remains a classic that still has a lot to say.
I base the review on a refillable bottle I have owned since October 2020.
-Elysium
The recent release I own likely keeps the original sparkle—the reformulation did not corrupt such a beauty—and opens with a fresh and woody explosion. That first splash reveals a vintage beast: a bright fougére with lavender and anise, followed by sage and cumin that sparkle above all else. I can recognize something spicy and citrusy, more lemon than bergamot, I would say. There seems to be a refreshing spice that lingers nicely, but it's a fresh spice, mint, and it's all tied in with the softness of lavender. For me, the star of this composition is the note of star anise. It is most prominent in the opening and always present until the end. While the anise fades a little after opening and the woods and leather become more prominent, it never disappears entirely. Cold, spicy and woody. However, it is clean on the top, with very smooth leather and a slight herbaceous note in its aroma.
Then, lavender, star anise and basil explode in a magical combination. A few minutes later, some floral notes appear, the magnificent iris, I think. There's also a soapy citrus blossom that seems to fill in all the cracks and crevices, while round oak moss rises from the bottom, adding a retro density. It's so layered that it's difficult to distinguish some notes, but lavender and oakmoss are the most prominent, which gives it this kind of almost screaming aroma, a kind of classic barber's soapiness. Not a patchouli bomb; the dirty grass is tamed and shares a core with creamy sandalwood and dried cedar. Instead, the resinous juniper berries and cardamom pods have huge spicy and balsamic facets.
In the drying phase, it projects a musky, elegant and timeless warmth that embodies the perfection of the perfume and goes straight to the masculine character made of roots, leaves, and resins. Earthy vetiver is another keynote; very well done here. Bitter drops of leather and oakmoss surround me. Well, it's a pleasant bitterness to counter the sweetness that I sometimes like but rarely like. And it is precisely that oily sweetness that made the original version annoying to my nose. I also get some talc notes, perhaps from coumarins and iris root. Although chemical oakmoss is still robust and observable.
In my humble opinion, the modern version of Azzaro pour Homme Eau de Toilette, if not identical, is very similar to the original. Still strong, spicy, soapy, but masculine. The sillage is now moderate, and the longevity is above expectations. It is no longer a heavy cologne, not like the original, but you don't have to use a lot of it either, because especially at the beginning, it might annoy you. It does not turn off after a few hours but continues silently for the rest of the day, especially on clothing. Honestly, I wear it best in the fall months, as its woody and aromatic aroma suits that time of year well. Just avoid extreme heat and humidity. What to say? For me, it remains a classic that still has a lot to say.
I base the review on a refillable bottle I have owned since October 2020.
-Elysium
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