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Can I cut back a little?
This title question is heard in our modern times, in which fasting, renunciation and FdH are becoming more and more fashionable. Does it have to be the schnitzel with fries again, or do we turn off to the salad buffet? The new Apple Watch made of stainless steel, or is aluminium enough? Ice cream but please with cream... ...or without? And suddenly I was faced with the question: Ormonde Man with 50% oil concentration, or is 30% enough? But let's start from the beginning.
While browsing through the top 30 men's fragrances in our favorite perfume database, I came across Ormonde Man (perfume). Of course, I ordered a bottling, and while you're at it, I ordered a "normal" eau de parfum (far outside the top 100) as well. If the highly concentrated version is really so much better, I wanted to investigate soberly and empirically.
Even before the samples arrived, I had already informed myself at Ormonde Jayne, London, how the rabbit generally runs. There were 30%, 40% and 50% concentrations, the friendly mail support told me. The first variant in a standard spray bottle, the last two variants either as a filling in the same (unfortunately with "Eau de Parfum" instead of "Parfum") or as a filling in a fancy bottle with a red cord around the bottle neck, then with "Parfum" writing, but unfortunately without the actual perfume name on it - you only have "generic" bottles for the so-called "Made-to-Measure" fragrances ("tailor-made concentration"). Sip.
When I asked the support team why the 30% concentration is called "eau de parfum", even though according to Wikipedia an EdP only has "10-20% aromatic compounds" (phew, my English was just about enough), the only answer was "we understand that this can be confusing". Hihi, well, Ormonde Jayne has his own definition and just hits the 12th. Up to now I always thought that the 42% offered by Profumum Roma is the highest of feelings. Well then, at 50% you can actually speak of "Explosion de Parfum", even above Pure Perfume / Extrait :-)
But now to the fragrances themselves: The perfume is highly praised here, and I can understand the praise very well. The higher concentration makes the fragrance appear more intense. I have the impression that the hemlock has been overdosed here more than the other notes. This seems to appeal to most people here. Personally, I find the other notes that make the scent a bit more edgy and fresh, like vetiver and pepper, a bit under
What I like about EdP is that it's a bit more barbershop-like, not so balsamic, but spicier and a bit soapy. I'd feel more comfortable with it in the office. In the evening I would prefer the perfume, with the woody-green hemlock, which is poisonous, but is said to have a calming effect (well, poison can sedate well *joking*).
Another observation in Drydown (EdP) that I don't want to conceal: Many people say they don't take oud and that's how I felt at first. But in the late drydown, when bergamot and juniper had long ago said goodbye, I suddenly noticed a sweet dusty woodiness. This note seemed familiar to me and then came the inspiration: MFK's Oud. And: Hadn't Ms. Jayne reported in an interview that she "travelled the world and came across Lao oud"? Well, Francis K. also used this (8 years later). Ergo: But a bit of oud in it. With the perfume (50%) on the other hand, I still only noticed hemlock fir.
And the moral of the story: There is no recommendation. Everyone must choose the concentration that suits them. I choose the cheaper one because I like the ticking better. And let's face it: 30% concentration is already more than 95% of the other fragrances on the market. So it may be a little less ;-)
While browsing through the top 30 men's fragrances in our favorite perfume database, I came across Ormonde Man (perfume). Of course, I ordered a bottling, and while you're at it, I ordered a "normal" eau de parfum (far outside the top 100) as well. If the highly concentrated version is really so much better, I wanted to investigate soberly and empirically.
Even before the samples arrived, I had already informed myself at Ormonde Jayne, London, how the rabbit generally runs. There were 30%, 40% and 50% concentrations, the friendly mail support told me. The first variant in a standard spray bottle, the last two variants either as a filling in the same (unfortunately with "Eau de Parfum" instead of "Parfum") or as a filling in a fancy bottle with a red cord around the bottle neck, then with "Parfum" writing, but unfortunately without the actual perfume name on it - you only have "generic" bottles for the so-called "Made-to-Measure" fragrances ("tailor-made concentration"). Sip.
When I asked the support team why the 30% concentration is called "eau de parfum", even though according to Wikipedia an EdP only has "10-20% aromatic compounds" (phew, my English was just about enough), the only answer was "we understand that this can be confusing". Hihi, well, Ormonde Jayne has his own definition and just hits the 12th. Up to now I always thought that the 42% offered by Profumum Roma is the highest of feelings. Well then, at 50% you can actually speak of "Explosion de Parfum", even above Pure Perfume / Extrait :-)
But now to the fragrances themselves: The perfume is highly praised here, and I can understand the praise very well. The higher concentration makes the fragrance appear more intense. I have the impression that the hemlock has been overdosed here more than the other notes. This seems to appeal to most people here. Personally, I find the other notes that make the scent a bit more edgy and fresh, like vetiver and pepper, a bit under
What I like about EdP is that it's a bit more barbershop-like, not so balsamic, but spicier and a bit soapy. I'd feel more comfortable with it in the office. In the evening I would prefer the perfume, with the woody-green hemlock, which is poisonous, but is said to have a calming effect (well, poison can sedate well *joking*).
Another observation in Drydown (EdP) that I don't want to conceal: Many people say they don't take oud and that's how I felt at first. But in the late drydown, when bergamot and juniper had long ago said goodbye, I suddenly noticed a sweet dusty woodiness. This note seemed familiar to me and then came the inspiration: MFK's Oud. And: Hadn't Ms. Jayne reported in an interview that she "travelled the world and came across Lao oud"? Well, Francis K. also used this (8 years later). Ergo: But a bit of oud in it. With the perfume (50%) on the other hand, I still only noticed hemlock fir.
And the moral of the story: There is no recommendation. Everyone must choose the concentration that suits them. I choose the cheaper one because I like the ticking better. And let's face it: 30% concentration is already more than 95% of the other fragrances on the market. So it may be a little less ;-)
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