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Apicius
Very helpful Review
11
Pustefix and Leather Jacket!
Well, all Micallef fragrances are professionally made - there are no real outliers. This also applies to the perfumes of Micallef's husband, Monsieur Nejman. Why was a separate brand chosen for these?
Neither in terms of price nor otherwise are they completely different from the other Micallef fragrances - even in Le Professionel, this good handwriting is recognizable.
Le Professionel is a leather chypre with a classic structure, although the development towards the base happens a bit too quickly. I'm fine with that if the result is right. Radical changes in a fragrance development are not my thing anyway.
The brief opening is, of course, citrusy - at first glance, nothing special, if it weren't for this one quality that I've only found with Micallef so far: something soapy-alcoholic is fizzing and bubbling away. Odd, but it makes me think of the tubes of Pustefix! Many still remember those from earlier. Today, Pustefix is probably long dermatologically tested and neutralized - but as a child, it always made me a little high. To claim that the good mood in the case of Le Professionel comes solely from the lemon would certainly be an understatement.
A bubbling and fizzing substance in the top note can also be found in Micallef's wonderful but expensive “Jewel,” but also in “Spicy for Him,” with which Le Professionel has some similarities. In particular, Le Professionel also shows itself to be quite “spicy” as it develops further. I smell a certain sharpness, and it briefly becomes a bit festive. A hint of cinnamon and clove is suggested but not elaborated on. On the one hand, I suspect drier spices: cardamom? coriander? Some pepper? On the other hand, I catch traces of something quite dirty: cumin, but really only minimal and skillfully dosed! In contrast, there is a discernible orange note - not a sweet orange blossom, but rather a strong, juicy blood orange. Geranium can only be sensed.
The whole thing moves at a rapid pace, and after half an hour, the leathery chypre base is fully in the foreground. This is where the similarities with Spicy for Him end, which dissolves the spices into an oriental opulence. The leather chypre note is excellent. I notice that there is no tendency towards breadth. Elsewhere, soapy musk or even tonka and vanilla come in to provide volume, but here there is still a bit of Pustefix in it! And the whole thing is so strong and robust in itself that it requires no enhancement.
The PR text at Ausliebezumduft points out that this is not for little boys, but a “fragrance for men.” Well, that's a matter of opinion. In my younger years, I could have been quite excited about something like this. In fact, I was, namely for the good old Trussardi Uomo, which I preferred to wear with my black leather jacket. And in this vein, Le Professionel is definitely on the same path.
Thus, Le Professionel is a perfume that brings back past times. I hardly dare to buy a probably 5 times reformulated Trussardi Uomo for 20 € today. We don't need to, because there is Le Professionel!